Accessing Body Bolts/Nuts; Advice on lifting Body?

[Jon B.]

Re: Accessing Body Bolts/Nuts; Advice on lifting Body?

One important question I forgot to ask:

-Assuming we will just lift the body far enough to install the new lines (after cleaning/painting the top of the frame), should the complete suspension/wheels/tires be in place on the frame? Currently the rear suspension is in place, but the front is completely out and it's being held up by jackstands. I'm thinking for greater stability and safety, the answer should be yes?

[Patrick H.]

Re: Accessing Body Bolts/Nuts; Advice on lifting Body?

One important question I forgot to ask:

-Assuming we will just lift the body far enough to install the new lines (after cleaning/painting the top of the frame), should the complete suspension/wheels/tires be in place on the frame? Currently the rear suspension is in place, but the front is completely out and it's being held up by jackstands. I'm thinking for greater stability and safety, the answer should be yes?

I can think of no reason why you would need any suspension at all.

[Paul J.]

Re: Accessing Body Bolts/Nuts; Advice on lifting Body?

One important question I forgot to ask:

-Assuming we will just lift the body far enough to install the new lines (after cleaning/painting the top of the frame), should the complete suspension/wheels/tires be in place on the frame? Currently the rear suspension is in place, but the front is completely out and it's being held up by jackstands. I'm thinking for greater stability and safety, the answer should be yes?

Jon, I still don't understand why you would not go ahead and completely lift the bady off of the frame. The difference in this and what you are proposing is minimal. With the body off of the frame, you can more easily reach the lines, go through the rear suspension if you wish, as well as anything else that is worn or dirty.

To answer your question, it doesn't make any difference if the front suspension is off or on. However, I prefer to use large wooden guardrail blocks (8"x6"x14") rather than jack stands. With these you can push the vehicle, frame, body, etc. sideways and it will not tip over. I use jack stands to hold things up, and the blocks when I work on them.

[Jon B.]

Re: Accessing Body Bolts/Nuts; Advice on lifting Body?

Jon, I still don't understand why you would not go ahead and completely lift the bady off of the frame. The difference in this and what you are proposing is minimal. With the body off of the frame, you can more easily reach the lines, go through the rear suspension if you wish, as well as anything else that is worn or dirty.

To answer your question, it doesn't make any difference if the front suspension is off or on. However, I prefer to use large wooden guardrail blocks (8"x6"x14") rather than jack stands. With these you can push the vehicle, frame, body, etc. sideways and it will not tip over. I use jack stands to hold things up, and the blocks when I work on them.

Well, there are only 2 of us working on this, and the fellow helping me is doing this in his spare time, and he's not charging an arm and a leg (the car is in his garage).
He lives about 45 minutes from me and has just reduced working out in his garage from weeknights and weekends to just weekends, for health reasons.
So, it's hard to co-ordinate even getting together with him these days; I can't imagine then suggesting building a dolly and taking up more of his garage space than I already am.
The car is going to look and drive great, but it is a quite under-documented car, and also has a warranty CE 454 engine, not matching #'s block (orig. heads). So I'm not sure there's enough inherent value in the car to really go all out. Next thing I'd be looking to send the frame out for blasting etc. and it actually looks great now after the many hours of cleaning, scraping, sanding and painting what I could get at. It's also been checked and is straight/true. I should mention that my $ situation would preclude sending the frame out for blasting in any case.
So, that's the reason I'm hoping to just lift the body, clean & paint the top of the frame, get the lines in and get back to work re-assembling the car.
Oh, the rear suspension has already been completely re-done and is in place: new 3:55 gears/posi unit, rebuilt trailing arms, new spring, bushings, strut rods, etc etc.
Sorry for the long answer, and I am sure I'll consider your suggestion no matter all my 'excuses'!
In fact, one thing, now that I think about it, it'd be easier to get the engine/tranny installed without the body on the car.
Thanks also for the response re: whether the suspension needs to be in place or not, good to know.