oil pressure

[James G.]

What's the best way to test my oil press. gage? I started the car the other day no reading on the gage, was fine for the last 22 yrs. Hope it's not the pump.

[Terry M.]

Re: oil pressure

What's the best way to test my oil press. gage? I started the car the other day no reading on the gage, was fine for the last 22 yrs. Hope it's not the pump.

What did the engine sound like? Was it knocking and clattering? That is the easy down and dirty way to check.

The more professional way is to attach a good mechanical gauge (I have a 4-inch diameter one just for this purpose) to the oil pressure port on the back of the engine -- driver's side of the distributor. I duct tape the gauge to the windshield and drive around with the gauge within my sight. That way I can read both cold and warm pressure. Of course one has to disconnect the gauge in the car while the temporary gauge is installed.

[Anthony S.]

Re: oil pressure

James, first you need to insure that the pump is working and oil is flowing. That's the main concern. This is easily done by talking of the oil fill cap on the value cover. With the car running, You should see oil flowing at the top of the head. On some cars a few drops even splash up.

Once you know the pump is working and you have oil flow: Then remove the line where it connects to the engine (with engine off). (I think it's at the intake manifold for your year, but check it out). A tell-tail sign that the guage is an issue is if you can see oil entering the line which means the guage has a leak, a leaky guage will let oil though the line (but not always).

If you know you have oil flow, your guage may be just temporarily "stuck." Once the engine warms up it may start working again.
T

[James G.]

Re: oil pressure

Hey Terry, the car seemed fine as I had gotten out right after it started to close the garage door and when I got back in I noticed the gage and shut it down.

[James G.]

Re: oil pressure

That's one thing I forgot to mention, I did look in the oil fill after I restarted it and it was hard to tell if there was any flow. The car ran for a couple of minutes before I noticed the gage not reading. The line going to the gage is black so you really can't see oil in the line.

[Joe L.]

Re: oil pressure

Of course one has to disconnect the gauge in the car while the temporary gauge is installed.

Terry------


Not necessarily. A "T" fitting can be installed at the block and both the in-car and test gauge connected. This is useful when trying to determine the accuracy of the in-car gauge at different oil pressure levels.

[Terry M.]

Re: oil pressure

Terry------


Not necessarily. A "T" fitting can be installed at the block and both the in-car and test gauge connected. This is useful when trying to determine the accuracy of the in-car gauge at different oil pressure levels.

Right you are Joe. That is an option I have never pursued, but should have thought of.

[James G.]

Re: oil pressure

Thanks for your replies guys. Joe thats a great idea, but I already tested with another gage and pressure is 60# at idle and 75# at 2500, just about what the cars gage read. Now that I know whats wrong what is the best way to get the gage cluster out? I checked my service manual and started with their procedure and it seems impossible to get at the two studs where cluster bezel attaches to the console. Can I access them by removing trim plate around the shifter and heater control area?

[Joseph K.]

Re: oil pressure

The two nuts can be taken off from the passenger side access panel and the removal of the heater control/shifter panel. When removing the shifter panel make sure that the battery is disconnected because the cig lighter power is in there. Also pull the fiber optics out of the their sockets before you lift it to high. The nuts are very difficult to remove. I think I used an ordinary wrench to loosen them and then undid the nuts with my fingers. It is not necessary to put them back in. Good luck...

[James G.]

Re: oil pressure

Thanks Joe. The two knobs for the fresh air vents just pull off ?

[Joseph K.]

Re: oil pressure

No there is an alen screw on the bottom of the knobs. hope that helps

[Terry M.]

Re: oil pressure

The two nuts can be taken off from the passenger side access panel and the removal of the heater control/shifter panel. When removing the shifter panel make sure that the battery is disconnected because the cig lighter power is in there. Also pull the fiber optics out of the their sockets before you lift it to high. The nuts are very difficult to remove. I think I used an ordinary wrench to loosen them and then undid the nuts with my fingers. It is not necessary to put them back in. Good luck...

One tip is that the nuts don't have to come all the way off. The shifter console is notched (at least it was on my 1970) so that with the nuts loosened and the radio out (yes the radio will come out without the instrument bezel all the way out) if the top of the instrument bezel is tipped out (toward the rear of the car) and the bottom tipped in, the bezel will come loose. Be sure to mark all the wires before disconnecting them. The instrument panel light holes are marked on the back of the bezel, so no worry there. You might consider changing the bulbs while you are there. It would not be good to get it all back together and find a bulb has failed.

Be careful of the bezel. There is a caution in the service manual for good reason. There is a weak point built into the bezel so it will break in the event of an accident. It will break very easily if you yank at the top or bottom while other parts are still attached.

BTW: Access form the side access panels to the nuts can be accomplished with a 1/4-inch drive flex socket and ratchet. My best recollection is the nuts are 7/16-inch, but I could be wrong about that. This is one place where you will learn the value of good quality sockets and ratchets.

[James G.]

Re: oil pressure

Thanks again guys.