Need help selecting motor oil...
...for my 1963 327ci,340hp, solid lifters engine. The previous owner used a standard grade/weight Quaker State. This is the first time I have changed the oil and am not sure if I should use a special product, or use any additives.
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Re: Need help selecting motor oil...
I think if you search the site you will find lots of information on this subject. I did when I had the same question. What I concluded with help from the experts on this forum is that solid lifter engines need zinc to provide lubrication. Motor oil meeting "CJ" specifications has the right amount of zinc. "CJ" is a specifcation for diesel enginesl. I couldn't find it at auto parts stores. I did find that Walmart carries Shell Rotela which meets "CJ" specs. For break-in Joe Gibbs Break-In oil was recommended by some.
Doug -
Re: Need help selecting motor oil...
Chuck,
I am learning the same lessons, and found the Shell Rotela at NAPA. The Machine Shop workign on my heads told me about Valvoline having a zink rich oil also. As stated above lot's to read on this board.
GeorgeComment
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Re: Need help selecting motor oil...
Thanks for help.Comment
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Re: Need help selecting motor oil...
Geez... rotela... rotila... how about Attila the Hun and "CJ-4".
...can't find it at an auto parts store... bunk! Typically C-category oils are in a different section than S-category... next time ask... or just look around some more... I can't ever remember being in any auto parts store and not finding C-category oil.
Try this, Chuck, page 3:
DukeComment
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Re: Need help selecting motor oil...
Duke, we are just making sure that you are paying attention.
After assembling my engine I went to Advance Auto Parts. They were the closest to my home. I looked at every oil they had in stock and asked if they had any not on their displays. They said they didn't. Not a single one had CJ-4 rating. Having previously read the article in the link you provided above and many of the TDB posts on the subject, I knew what to look for. Walmart was the next stop (about 4 x further than Advance Auto).
By the way, I mis-spoke in a previous post. The pistons I installed are Speed Pro SLP-L2166NF. The rods are Eagle SIR5700SPLW. The cam is Crane CS118R. I've gotten away from the engine builder I used, but the problem I have turned out to be a cracked head. Since the problem didn't surface until after several hours of operation I think it probably cracked after the rebuild.
Thanks for all the help you provide.
DougComment
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Re: Need help selecting motor oil...
I used to travel 2 to 10 miles to either our nearest Sam's club or Wal Mart to get 15w-40 Shell Rotella until I found that my local Advance Auto Parts store (two blocks from my house) has both 15w-40 and 10w-30 Shell Rotella. Another specialized Auto Parts store near by has ordered into their stock Wix #51143 (PF141) oil filters for me. As soon as I pick one up, they order in another from their warehouse. It's nice to know there are stores (people) like these that will go out of their way to please their customers. All you have to do is ask.
Stu FoxComment
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Re: Need help selecting motor oil...
I'm glad you took my comments with a smile. That was my intent.
I don't think there are any Advance Auto stores in SoCal, but I'm really surprised they don't carry C-category oil. I have a Pep Boys walking distance from my place and a Kragen about two miles away. They both carry CJ-4, and Pep Boys has their own house brand that they sell in quart bottles.
Walmart usually has the lowest prices on national brands. Their house brand is cheaper, and I will usually buy it, if it's in stock, which is not all the time. Also, my local Costco carries Chevron Delo, but you have to buy a six-gallon case.
CS118R is the Federal Mogul number for the 30-30 cam.
Those Eagle rods are a good value and are only marginally heavier than the OE rods. For $250, it's just not worth putting any money into the OE rods especially on SHP engines. My current theory on the second design rods for 300 HP engines that are not massaged for higher revs is to just use them "as-is" with only a dimension/straightness check - no Magnaflux, lightening, shot peening, or new bolts and resizing. That will all cost more than a new set of the SIRs and even with the rework they are still weaker and have lower fatigue life.
If you decide to replace second design 327 rods, don't through them away. They're a good upgrade for early 327 rods on 250/300 HP engines and hydraulic lifter 283s.
DukeComment
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