Side Window Adjustment on 1960

[Joe M.]

I removed the side windows, polished up the frames, installed new glass and re-assembled the driver side. The s/s frame drags hard across the area where the vertical/horizontal whiskers connect for an inch or so as it goes up. As it goes down, the s/s window frame drags across the whisker connection area most of the way down. It was worse on the passenger side and made deep scratches in the frames that I had just polished out.


I am aware (from the ST-12) of one place to adjust the center curved sash track, but it only adjusts the bottom of the sash track about 1/4" forward or backward. How do I adjust the forward/backward movement of the window?



The window needs to stay away from the whiskers until it has to go into the front window run.


There is another curved track in the front of the door that the nylon roller on the window frame rolls in, but does not appear to be any adjustment there.

[Joe M.]

Re: Side Window Adjustment on 1960

I figured out the problem on the driver side. The back end of the whisker/stainless bead, at the end cap, is dragging down as the back of the window goes down. This prevents the front of the window from coming back to clear the whiskers in the front. The end staple holding the whisker to the outer reveal molding is not tight enough and the reveal molding is loose; causing it to rotate inward. I used hex speed nuts on the reveal holdings and they did not hold tight enough; will go back with hex nuts, lock washer, and flat washer.

[Dan D.]

Re: Side Window Adjustment on 1960

I removed the side windows, polished up the frames, installed new glass and re-assembled the driver side. The s/s frame drags hard across the area where the vertical/horizontal whiskers connect for an inch or so as it goes up. As it goes down, the s/s window frame drags across the whisker connection area most of the way down. It was worse on the passenger side and made deep scratches in the frames that I had just polished out.


I am aware (from the ST-12) of one place to adjust the center curved sash track, but it only adjusts the bottom of the sash track about 1/4" forward or backward. How do I adjust the forward/backward movement of the window?



The window needs to stay away from the whiskers until it has to go into the front window run.


There is another curved track in the front of the door that the nylon roller on the window frame rolls in, but does not appear to be any adjustment there.

Hi Joe, been following your post closely, as I am about to fight the same battles.

Just wondering what you used for S/S polish and how well did it work? I need to do the same.

How did you fold over the staples in the fuzzies? I bought new fuzzies and staples, but I have to drill the holes and install the staples. That might take some skill.

I also got speed nuts with the reveal holdowns. Thanks for the insight - I will not use them and use regular hex nuts and washers - as original.

Thanks Joe, -Dan-

[Joe M.]

Re: Side Window Adjustment on 1960

I had difficulty making the staples tight; even used two pairs of vice grips, one on each staple leg. I believe the problem was one set of holes was oversized due to up/down drag on the front of the outside whisker. I tried to drill new holes, but my drill bit was too dull. It will to a challenge to drill the holes at the proper distance apart and location on the molding. The holes have to be drilled so that when the whisker is installed, the s/s bead is above the edge of the reveal molding. If not, the window will drag it down.

Polishing - I purchased 5 different Porter Cable polishing sticks from Lowes. They range from #1, the heavy cutter, to #5, polish for soft metals (I finish with it). Apply it sparingly to the buffing wheels and occasionally, take a putty knife to the buffing wheel while it is running and scrape off the encrusted polish/metal gunk.

I will be removing the speed nuts from the driver side and replacing with regular hex nuts, flat washers, and lock washers. I used that combination last night on the passenger side and it holds tight.

Update on window drag on the whisker curved area - I now have the window moving away from the tight spot on the way up, but on the way down, the window does not pull away from the front channel. I think the regulator is loose because I can grab the front corner of the window and lift it up over an inch. Lifting it up moves it back, but it won't do that on it own. I through messing with it and going back with door panel and finishing up the door.