1958 Fuelie Break-In Procedure Help Needed

[Justin B.]

Well, after sitting 8 years of sitting in a climate controled garage and properly lubed, it's time to bring the rebuilt, original, "born with" solid lifter 283 back to life. The last time it was alive was in 1978!! So, I need all of the best advice available from you and your personal experiences on how to properly break-in the old fuelie motor.
So, get me started on how to prime the fuel injection unit. Plus, once I crank it up do I need to run it at a certain RPM for a certain amount of time? I was told to get a motor oil with zinc for proper internal lubrication so, I did. How about the valves? do I need to adjust them as the motor runs?
I don't want to screw anything up so I'm all ears and I'm ready for your help!!

[Bruce B.]

Re: 1958 Fuelie Break-In Procedure Help Needed

Assuming that the engine was properly rebuilt and the valves properly adjusted the procedure is very simple.
First pull the distributor and use a priming tool to get oil pumped throughout the engine, pull the valve covers and check for oil at the pushrod top end als check the oil pressure gauge.
Then replace the distributor, check the timing while cranking the engine with the coil wire disconnected, reconnect when done.
Crank the engine over untill it starts, it will take a while to get gas from the gas tank, but no big deal.
Once started run the engine at a constant 2000 rpm for about 15 minutes.
When done I would recheck timing and valve lash then take a nice long drive.
I'm sure you will get additional info on the forum
Good Luck.
Bruce B

[Ed H.]

Re: 1958 Fuelie Break-In Procedure Help Needed

When I rebuilt my 1957, 283 270 Hp motor in 2002, I followed the same procedure as Bruce. The only thing I found that was off was the timing, by 2 degrees and the valve lash was tight on all the rockers due to heat expansion, any where from .100 to .300 too close. I backed off on all the valves by .100, to 9 and 19. The last thing you want on a new cam and valves is too tight of a setting. After the 15 to 20 Min breakin, I drained all the oil and replaced the filter, redid the valve lash and reset the timing, checking for any fuel and oil leaks, then I took it out for that nice long drive. While driving, vary the speed under load, and if all seems ok, you are succesful in your breakin. You will have to reindex your oil pump rod, that connects to the distributor, as some times it is not in the right position after you removed the distributor. Adjust your valves with the engine static. There are some very easy 090 degree crank settings where you adjust various intake and exhaust valves. Now, go forth and drive it like you stole it.

[Jim L.]

Re: 1958 Fuelie Break-In Procedure Help Needed

So, get me started on how to prime the fuel injection unit.

If any of my FI units had been sitting dry for several years (or even several months), I would make sure the bowl had fuel and that the high pressure pump turned easily. One way to do this would be: 1. Disconnect and remove the high pressure pump cable. 2. Crank the engine until it is certain the FI fuel bowl has filled. 3. Finally, insert just the cable into the pump and turn it through several revolutions with your fingers. The pump should turn smoothly and relatively easily. If it's not smooth or if it doesn't turn with relative ease, STOP and find out why. Once you've primed the high pressure pump, insert the free end of the cable in the distributor and do whatever you feel is necessary for the rest of the engine. You can re-install the cable casing at your convenience later. Jim

[Joe R.]

Re: 1958 Fuelie Break-In Procedure Help Needed

Justin,

Bruce has some good advice for you. What cam do you have? What does the manufacturer recommend for a break in? I would follow that to a "tee." I think Duke recommends using CJ-4 oil with a can of GM Engine Oil Supplement (E.O.S.) for break in. That's what I plan to do. Here's a good thread with some more info:

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...eferrerid=2667

Joe

[Michael W.]

Re: 1958 Fuelie Break-In Procedure Help Needed

Was the engine actually rebuilt with new components, or has it just been sitting? If there's a new cam, then the 2000 RPM for 15 minutes is not a bad idea although the factory never bothered (that should surprise some people). If it's not been rebuilt, fire it up and go after making sure there's no leaks and timing is OK.

[Paul J.]

Re: 1958 Fuelie Break-In Procedure Help Needed

Justin,

You've gotten some good advice. In principal, there are two parts to breaking in an engine. The first is to break in the cam, which is usually done by running the engine at a constant rpm of around 2000 to 2500 for 20 to 25 minutes (although I usually follow Bruce's recommendation of 15 min). This is not necessary, but it's good insurance. The second part is the break in of the rings. This is best done with a series of light loading at 45 to 50 mph with light acceleration up to 60-65 and then backing down and varying the speed. Look at post #7 in the link below. This is similar to the method that I use, but any procedure that generally follows these guidelines will work just fine.

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...break&uid=7564

Paul

P.S. Ward was posting at the same time I was, and he raises a good point. What I've described is for a rebuilt motor that has not been run.

[Cecil L.]

Re: 1958 Fuelie Break-In Procedure Help Needed

Was the engine actually rebuilt with new components, or has it just been sitting? If there's a new cam, then the 2000 RPM for 15 minutes is not a bad idea although the factory never bothered (that should surprise some people). If it's not been rebuilt, fire it up and go after making sure there's no leaks and timing is OK.

They may not have done a full break-in, but at least they used the additive in new production engines according to this TSB.

[John D.]

Re: 1958 Fuelie Break-In Procedure Help Needed

Justin, Just remember your FI unit has been sitting in excess of 7 years now. It once was tested with fuel so the FI unit may have issues. Lockwoods advise is perfect. To repeat what Jim in my words: Do not install the drive cable and housing assembly that goes from the distributor to the hi-pressure pump on the FI unit. Just put a bare cable in the pump to distributor. BUt first see if it will turn by hand. i am going to guess it will NOT turn as the pump is stuck from sitting.
Get a baby crescent wrench and put it on the end of the cable. Now gently rock the cable back and worth to see if you can break the pump loose. If not then remove the hi-pressure pump and squirt some good penetrating oil in it like Aero-Kroil. Once the pump is free install a new gasket and at least the pump is ready.
Would be nice to prime the fuel bowl. Several crude ways to do that....... One could remove the top fuel meter bracket and then the round screen under it. Then dump a cup of 100LL (Mikey's favorite) into the fuel pump. Remember your FI unit was not rebuilt for ethanol. Use racing fuel or 100LL AV gas.
Plan B is to remove the fuel line from the inlet fitting of the fuel meter cover. Then get a piece short piece of 5/16" brake line and screw it into the inlet fitting. I forgot to say bend the line into a 90 degree. Then get a small funnel and pour a cup of gas into the fuel bowl. That way you don't have to take the FI apart and mess up the plating.
Make sure the engine is in time or closs to it so you don't have any backwards and blow out the pesky Cranking Signal Valve.
Crank the engine over and let it rip. Have a screwdrive in hand so you can advise the fast idle to around 1800 plus and then adjust the regular idle to 950 or so for a start. Watch for fuel leaks. Keep an eye on your temperature sending unit loom as they turn to ouze (not ouzo) tar all over the refinished valve covers.
Bruce said to remove the valve covers, etc. Remember you cannot remove the drivers side valve cover on an FI car unless you remove or jack up the FI unit.
Bruces advise is excellent but give it a whirl without doing all that. Go for it. Let us know the scoop.
Good luck, JD

Justin. I must be brain dead to give you all that advise above. Not thinking in my old age. The FI unit should be flow tested before it is put on the engine. Then after it is tested fill the fuel bowl up when the FI unit is off the engine. Then when you bolt it on you are all set to go.
With the FI unit off you can set the Duntov 097 cam ice cold. That way no mess.

[John H.]

Re: 1958 Fuelie Break-In Procedure Help Needed

They may not have done a full break-in, but at least they used the additive in new production engines according to this TSB.

Cecil -

That was the initial release of what we've always known as the GM "EOS" break-in supplement.

[Bruce B.]

Re: 1958 Fuelie Break-In Procedure Help Needed

John and Jims advise concerning checking to make sure the high pressure pump is free before starting is very important.
The posts reminded me to check the 4900R that I just got on a old 57 Corvette (wrong unit) and it is stuck.
So I will soak it in 100LL and MArvel Mystery oil for a week or so and hopefully it will free up.

I must say this forum is fantastic, the knowledge base is great and the willingness of the "experts" to share is truely wonderful.

[Cecil L.]

Re: 1958 Fuelie Break-In Procedure Help Needed

Cecil -

That was the initial release of what we've always known as the GM "EOS" break-in supplement.

Thanks John,
I just ran across this TSB and was a little surprised that they were using the additive that long ago. Obviously, cam break-in concerns are not such a new phenomenon.

[John D.]

Re: 1958 Fuelie Break-In Procedure Help Needed

Bruce, Remember a year of so here someone put up a link of us getting Aero Kroil penetrating oil at a bargain price. That stuff is magic but came too late in my life.
Puts other penetrating oils to shame. The Silicon Kroil is unbelievable.
Stuck pump: Squirt it with Gumout Carb and choke cleaner. But watch your eyes. Just the gear end. John

[Justin B.]

Re: 1958 Fuelie Break-In Procedure Help Needed

Thanks to everyone for your help. As far as I'm concerned the engine is in perfect shape right now, no leaks, flat spots on the cam, etc. But, in all reality, it can't stay like this forever. So cross your fingers! The thought of having to pull that perfectly restored engine out makes my stomach sink to my feet!! I'll let you all know the outcome.

[Justin B.]

Re: 1958 Fuelie Break-In Procedure Help Needed

John, what do I have to do to "flow test" the injection unit, send it back to you? By the way, the fuel pump cable turns freely!! You're the man!!