1965 327-300 loss of power.
I have a 1965 corvette convertible 327-300 hp which was completely rebuilt in 2007. The motor was rebuilt along with the carter afb carb, new fuel pump, lectric limited electronic ignition conversion etc. Recently I have been having problems with the motor after driving the car for approximately 5 miles. When trying to accelerate up a hill or under a load the car suddenly loses power to the point of starting to slow down. If I press down on the accelerator when this happens the car starts to backfire thru the exhaust. If I feather the accelerator I can usually managed to get back home. The problem started as an intermittent problem but lately it has been getting worse. I replaced the fuel filter but that did not solve the problem. Does anyone have any ideas on what I should check? Thanks in advance for any help. Dick.
-
-
Re: 1965 327-300 loss of power.
I'd start with changing the distributor back to it's original points configuration to eliminate the "death by electronics" possibility.Bill Clupper #618 -
Re: 1965 327-300 loss of power.
5 miles isn't very far, which is good. Should be easier to debug.
When you get to this point of power loss, if you stop the car and let it idle for a minute or two will you be able to accelerate again? I'm wondering if the float bowls are emptying in those first couple miles and if letting it idle will allow them to refill (poor fuel pressure, bad pump, restrictive filter, etc).
It sounds like fuel starvation but Bill may also be onto something with the electronics. They (the electronics) may be heating up during those first few miles and failing.Comment
-
Re: 1965 327-300 loss of power.
Ditto what Clup said... sounds like a thermal issue with the magic black box - a common failure mode. Check the latest Corvette Restorer to pick the best point set for your engine.
DukeComment
-
Comment
-
Re: 1965 327-300 loss of power.
I agree with Roy that its a fuel issue. Possibly the gas cap vent is plugged. Try driving it with the cap loosened and see what happens.Comment
-
Re: 1965 327-300 loss of power.
When small stand-alone electronics were being introduced into cars back in the early 70's, the outfit I worked for made a few, and installed many more in the wiring harnesses we built. We had a knickname for them, "MFTG" short for Mother ----ing toy gadgets!"Bill Clupper #618Comment
-
Re: 1965 327-300 loss of power.
I think Roy may have pointed me in the right direction. When I removed the spare tire carrier and touched the rubber hose attached to the fuel metering unit, it started leaking gas. I am going to drain my gas tank and replace the rubber fuel line. Special thanks to all for providing input into the problem.Comment
-
Re: 1965 327-300 loss of power.
IMO, the problem sounds to me like a coil starting to go bad, if you have a good spare give it a try first.
If the L/L points conversion is the breakerless SE I will be surprised if there is a problem with it..Comment
-
Re: 1965 327-300 loss of power.
I'll bet some money against all of you who fault the ignition for the problem.Comment
-
Re: 1965 327-300 loss of power.
Richard, while you have the tank drained, I would suggest you pull the sending unit and check the pickup sock filter as Roy suggested. That hose could be sucking closed I suppose, but may not be your whole problem. At the very least, gently blow through the pickup tube to see if there is much resistance. DO NOT use compressed air. Cold beer or dark liquor can be used to get the taste of gas out of your mouth. Chip.Comment
-
Re: 1965 327-300 loss of power.
Richard,
I had the exact same problem you are describing with my 67 300hp car. Real simple. Fuel filter (sintered brass type in holly carb) was clogged and when really needed there was no fuel in the bowls. I do not know what the AFB had for a fuel filter, but I would start there. Probably the easiest thing I ever "fixed" on my car. Good luck.
JohnJohn Seeley
67 Black/Teal
300 hp 3 speed coupe
65 Maroon/Black
35k mile Fuelie coupeComment
-
Re: 1965 327-300 loss of power.
I think it's ethanol in the gas has rotted gaskets and/or hoses and you will find tiny black flakes of rubber in all the tight spots in your carb. I am about to rebuilt my carb on my CJ7 for the third time this year, all ethanol related. Good news guys, if you don't like 10% ethanol in your gas, stay tunes for 15%. I've been buying AvGas from the local airport @ $5.70 gallon for 100 octane for all my small engines, including my SBCs.Comment
-
Re: 1965 327-300 loss of power.
After changing the hose from the sending unit to the steel fuel line I tried to start the car. It ran for a few minutes at idle and then it stopped completely. I put a small amount of gas in the carburetor and tried restarting the car. It ran for a few seconds until the gas was fully consumed. I disconnected the fuel line coming off the fuel pump and checked the fuel pressure of which there was zero pressure. Today I removed the fuel pump and noticed the spring on the fuel pump arm was broken into two pieces, also the drift pin for the fuel pump arm was missing. I now believe the problem was due to a cracked fuel hose at the fuel sender coming off the tank(which did not show any signs of leaking until I slightly moved it) and the fuel pump with a mechanical breakdown.Comment
-
Re: 1965 327-300 loss of power.
Richard, glad to hear you found your problem and it's relatively easy to fix! Now might I suggest you add a magnetic drain plug at the next oil change in case that drift pin reappears and starts moving around? An ounce of prevention... Chip.Comment
Comment