Took car out for test drive today, everything was fine when I left. Upon return about a block from the house I lost all pedal. Got the car home and noticed the inside front drivers side drum was all wet. Time for a brake job after 20 years. Can any of the parts be bought at a regular parts store or do I have to go to some one like Paragon? Probably will need wheel cylinder kits all four and shoes. The master is bone dry now so what brake fluid should I use? Any helpful hints?
C1 Brakes
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Re: C1 Brakes
See if your car has original wheel cylinders first. If so, it has the cylinder bore cast on the part. If they are off the shelf replacements, then you may as well replace again. Advance Auto or O'Riely's should have them. If they are originals and you want to rebuild, Take one front & one rear with you to Advance and get the correct size bore kits. I would also rebuild/resleeve the master cylinder if an original piece. Both of mine now have DOT-5 after completely flushing the system with denatured alcohol. Have fun!- Top
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Re: C1 Brakes
My Delco Moraine Prod wheel cylinders are:F/L #5459528 1 3/16" boreF/R #5459527 1 3/16" boreL/R #5450649 1" boreR/R #5450649 1" boreHope this helpsAttached Files- Top
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Re: C1 Brakes
To add to what John said, when I took my 60 apart for restoration I found aftermarket brake cylinders. The rears are not that difficult to find on Ebay and such. The fronts 1 3/16" bore where only used for a few years as I understand and are much more difficult to find. I was able to find correct fronts and honed and rebuilt them. They are on my car now, but I still don't have it on the road, so I hope they work. Since then I was also able to find a NOS set of fronts for a reasonable price and have them as spares.
If you do a search on C1 Brake Cylinders you will also find information on used 1 3/16" cylinders made for International Truck as a substitute if you want to keep the 1 3/16". My uderstanding is that the biggest difference with using the 1 3/16" on front is pedal pressure when applying the brakes is less then when using 1" cylinders.
I do not believe that the wheels are removed at judging events. I was the the Fla regional and at least for Flight judging the wheels were never removed on any of the cars.Don Harris
Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)- Top
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Re: C1 Brakes
When resleeving the 528 and 527 front cylinders with the 1 3/16 bore do you have the sleeve bored to 1 3/16 ". If so where do you get wheel cylinder kits for these? NOS ? Or are there aftermarket kits available? I found my original 62 wheel cylinders along with a few spares and would like to sleev and re use them. Rich- Top
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Re: C1 Brakes
When resleeving the 528 and 527 front cylinders with the 1 3/16 bore do you have the sleeve bored to 1 3/16 ". If so where do you get wheel cylinder kits for these? NOS ? Or are there aftermarket kits available? I found my original 62 wheel cylinders along with a few spares and would like to sleev and re use them. Rich
As I recall, I got my rebuild kits for the fronts (1 3/16") bore from NAPA and rear 1" bores from NAPA. But RockAuto also carries a rebuild kit for 1 3/16" bore.Don Harris
Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)- Top
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Re: C1 Brakes
If do some searching you will find various opinions of brass versus stainless steel. I had my master cylinder sleeved because it was so heavily pitted and the place that did it used stainless. Others use brass.Don Harris
Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)- Top
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