1964 KO wheels questions
I have a "survivor" 1964 Fuel Injected Roadster with knock off wheels. It has been sitting for 25 years but prior to that, I drove it a fair amount and never had any trouble at all with the KO wheels. I am going to get it out and about again. But lately I have seen/heard talk about problems with KO wheels, especially with them coming off. I have heard people say you should "drill" them and put a "pin" in them and other suggestions. What, if anything, should I worry about and what steps should I take? Any and all advice would be appreciated.
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Re: 1964 KO wheels questions
Billy,
First, are the 64 wheels originals or repos?
Most of the problems with KO wheels are caused by the owners themselves not knowing or not being able to read or follow the proper installation of the wheels.
First problem is caused by the owner not properly seating the wheel on the KO adapter. The wheels have to be keyed properly on the guide pins of the adapter or they won't tighten.
Secondly the owner just does not tighten the spinner to the specifications in the owners manual. There is a procedure that has to be followed and they have to re re-tightened at intervals during the first few miles.
Earlier when the KO's were repoed there were some problems with the adapters and spinners that allowed the wheels to become loose but those problems were solved when the adapters and spinners were drilled for safety pins.
Do not drill originals for pins as it is not necessary. Just follow the directions for tightening KO and they will be fine!
JR -
Re: 1964 KO wheels questions
Billy,
I have after market KO's on my 64 and I would offer one suggestion. When installing them, always use a liberal amount of anti-seize compound on all threaded surfaces. The next time you have to take them off, you'll be glad you did.
MikeComment
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Re: 1964 KO wheels questions
Billy:
Sounds as though it might be one to check, if the KOs are original. I have a "Inter-Organization" letter dated April 3, 1964 that refers to an "air leakage" problem on 1964 KOs. This was due to the porosity of the plastic sealer used on the inner surfaces of the wheel. This apparently was on wheels produced PRIOR to March 4 and installed on vehicles PRIOR to #13346
Wheels NOT on cars were returned for correction and should have a stamped "T" or "TR" adjacent to or below the cast part # on the wheel.
The letter also indicates that "field complaints" should be handled by "installation of an inner tube".
Any chance that your car fits any or all of the above? Don't go demounting tires - just keep the question areound so that when you do.....Comment
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Re: 1964 KO wheels questions
The wheels are original. The car has been sitting for a very long time and the driver's side tires have always leaked down . I haven't had the wheels off the car since the 1970's so I don't know about this "T" vs "TR" stamp. The car's VIN is #1971, so it may well have the "leaky" wheels. If so, what should I do??
I will keep this info handy. Thanks for all the help guys.
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Re: 1964 KO wheels questions
Billy,
I don't think that SN 1971 would have been delivered with KO's from the factory. Maybe-Maybe Not!
Around 14,000 they were still having problems and NOT delivering any 64's that were ordered with KO wheels.
There are plenty of sealants available to cure the porosity problem with the earlier wheels. Many aluminum wheels and also wire wheels sold today have this sealant applied from the manufacturer.
There is a fellow in Illinois with a 64 who is the original owner and GM sent his 64 to him with tubes. It had sat on the lot in St. Louis for months before he complained to GM and the District Manager released it to him with the tubes. He still has the 64 and the documentation to prove this story. Also has the KO's, tubes and original tires!
JRComment
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Re: 1964 KO wheels questions
My first guess is that as a first week in October car, either the dealer fixed it or it became sort of a recall. There certainly weren't very many of those wheels "out and about" by that time - they would have remembered your car. Second, I'm not sure exactly what sort of sealer was used then, but there just HAS to be something vastly superior available now. Or third,
you're going to find inner tubes! At least you should have the "story" part of your Founder's Award in sight. Let us know..Comment
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Re: 1964 KO wheels questions
The KO wheels are definitely original. I have talked with owners all the way back to the third owner. Also, the car has the original ( a bit tattered and yellowed) KO instruction decal still adherent to the underside of the storage bin lid. The car is very original and preserved. Forgive me, but I am not sure I understand the "Founder's Award " comment.
Thanks for your help.
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Re: 1964 KO wheels questions
Billy-
Not sure you got your original question answered re: wheels coming off. I restore these wheels and have had them on one or more of my C-2's for almost 30 years. I actually print an instruction sheet for my customers that aids; from the hub adapter install to the best tire install equipment to use, to the wheel orientation-contact me with your E-Address and I can send it. I would not recommend any drilling or pins or any of those measures.
However, quickly; be sure to use the long lug nuts, which will prevent installing the wheel onto the hub in the wrong holes-this will for sure cause problems. I also recommend the anti-seize compound on the threads of the hub adapter-sparingly. Once the wheel is on and you have spun the spinner on (light load on the tire), it is best to use one of the wrenches available on the market-I like the one from Long Island, as the factory lead hammer is JUNK. Drop the weight down and re-tighten. Go drive the car about 10-15 miles and re-tighten. I check them again after about 50 and 100 miles. If you do not have the wrench-a lead 4lb blow hammer (from Zip) will do the trick and will not hurt the spinner finish. This blow hammer also works wonders when comes to getting stubborn wheels off that won't come off even with the wrench and cheater bar. If you follow these steps-they ain't coming off.
To address the comments regarding the "leakers", Loren would probably know best on the dates; however, I have had over 50 sets come through my doors and have only had a couple of leakers in the bunch. Many of the non-hard date stamped wheels (prior to Jan 65) I have had still had visible "ink" stamp dates-most that I could read were August 64 & September 64 and they did not leak. Could not make out the date on the leakers. I know full well the date indicated in the JM that the wheels were supposedly available, but inter-office memos, dealer letters and the dates on some of the wheels I have restored, I firmly believe they were available before the recognized October date, perhaps as early a June or July (63 models).
Anyway, if anyone has a leaker, how we cured the problem is to have the inner rim powder coated with a "low gas" powder process that cures slower than regular powder and allows the gases in the aluminum to bubble out-coating seeks that cavity. The coating is uniform, contrary to many sealants, so balancing is not an issue and can be blended into the polished lip that shows. I would assume the low gas powder is readily available, but if not let me know; I can steer you in the right direction.
Have fun with your K-O wheels and don't be afraid of them coming off-if you install them properly, you will be safe.
Mike Zamora#12455Comment
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