Radiator Additives - Snake Oil... or The Real Deal?

[Dennis K.]

Hi Guys,

Will be flushing out my radiator soon... and wondering if those radiator additives that claim to reduce running temperatures actually work? I see a range of products in this space from Royal Purple, Water Wetter, and 40 Below (there are probably hundreds??). Anyway - does anyone have epxerience with these? Snake Oil? The Real Deal? Waht did you witness? Should I add it to plain H20 or to a mix with anti-freeze?

P.S. Mine is a CA car that is only driven in fair weather so I am not worried about anti-freeze aspects... but may be interested in any anti-corrosion benefits that anti-freeze or other additives would provide.

Thx,
Dennis

[Walter F.]

Re: Radiator Additives - Snake Oil... or The Real Deal?

I can only comment on some of the oil additives. From what I read Flowmax was one of the worst. Even with some big name endorcements one study showed Flowmax may actually do more harm to a motor then good. The only product that seemed to get some credit was Marvel mystery oil to clean out gummed up engines.I think most of the stuff sold out there are just money makers for rich folks who want to get richer.

[Joe R.]

Re: Radiator Additives - Snake Oil... or The Real Deal?

Dennis,

I think Zerex G-05 and distilled water is the way to go. Here's one thread on the topic:

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?81548-Zerex-G-05&referrerid=2667

Joe

[Philip A.]

Re: Radiator Additives - Snake Oil... or The Real Deal?

Dennis
The water in the system is what does the actual cooling (heat transfer). The antifreeze is needed to inhibit corrosion and prevent freezing. The mentioned additives change the surface tension of the water and technically do enhance heat transfer. However, in a properly functioning system it should not be necessary. Distilled water is the ONLY water to use as there are no minerals or salts to form deposits or corrosion. A heat problem that is corrected by one of the additives is indicative of a marginally functioning system and will fail in the future since the system itself is not functioning properly.
Phil

[Dick W.]

Re: Radiator Additives - Snake Oil... or The Real Deal?

Distilled water and an antifreeze such as Zerex G-05, mixed 50/50 should take care of everything you need

[Joseph L.]

Re: Radiator Additives - Snake Oil... or The Real Deal?

An additional pearl to offer: ensure your choice of distilled H2O is "de-ionized."

[Jim T.]

Re: Radiator Additives - Snake Oil... or The Real Deal?

Way back in 1967 I bought a 1963 Impala SS 327 4 speed when I was living in Coronado, CA. Bought the Super Sport from local Chevrolet dealer in San Diego. Although the weather in southern CA on the coast does not require much heater use, the heater in the 1963 would not put out warmth. Changing the coolant discovered that only water was in the coolant system and dirty. In flushing the system removed the heater hoses from the heater core at the firewall. The heater core was completely stopped up with stuff I will identify as looking like mud. Installed 50/50 solution of water and anti-freeze. Cold in Southern CA does happen though. Had to put snow chains once on the 63 on a trip from Coronado, CA to Dallas. The CHP would not let you travel to far east without chains. It was slow travel on the snowy highway. I was prepared, I had bought the chains for the 63 in Coronado, CA.

Distilled water with anti-freeze is all I use in my cars today.

[Duke W.]

Re: Radiator Additives - Snake Oil... or The Real Deal?

Distilled water and an antifreeze such as Zerex G-05, mixed 50/50 should take care of everything you need

Ditto... a 50/50 mix of Zerex G-05 and distilled water, which costs about a buck a gallon at the grocery store. (It does not have to be "de-ionized").

All the whys and wherefores have been discussed a zillion times. Search "Zerex G-05".

Duke

[Timothy B.]

Re: Radiator Additives - Snake Oil... or The Real Deal?

I may be wrong here but my belief is that distilled water is first de-ionized then distilled which removes the bacteria and makes it potable.

So distilled removes minerals and then de-ionized removed bacteria so it's drinkable.

[Duke W.]

Re: Radiator Additives - Snake Oil... or The Real Deal?

Distilled water is just boiled and condensed, is widely available, and adequate for cooling systems. De-ionization is a chemical process which is more expensive and not as readily available. It's not necessary for cooling systems.

Bacteria will not survive boiling and distillation, and even if you introduce bacteria to the cooling system, the normal temperature range will kill them. Bacteria just aren't an issue in cooling systems as long as the car is driven once in a while and is treated to reasonable cooling system maintenance, like periodic coolant changes.

Duke

[Joe L.]

Re: Radiator Additives - Snake Oil... or The Real Deal?

I may be wrong here but my belief is that distilled water is first de-ionized then distilled which removes the bacteria and makes it potable.

So distilled removes minerals and then de-ionized removed bacteria so it's drinkable.

Timothy------


De-ionization is a process which uses ion exchange resins to remove any contaminants in the water. Distillation is another process used to remove contaminants in water. Rarely, if ever, are these two processes used in combination, though. Neither process necessarily results in sterile water although distillation can result in sterile water if certain precautions are taken. Sterile water is completely unnecessary for use in automotive cooling systems.

If one lives in an area in which the municipal water supply has relatively high total dissolved solids (TDS), the use of distilled or de-ionized water making up 50% coolant mix is a good idea. If one lives in an area with low or very low TDS, very little benefit is achieved by using de-ionized or distilled water. For example, water supplied by the City of San Francisco Hetch-Hetchy water system has a TDS of about 50 ppm. This means that in a typical Corvette cooling system with a 50% coolant mix the water will introduce about 500 milligrams of "contaminants". I consider that amount to be insignificant, especially considering that no one is going to have a "squeaky clean" cooling system after draining. So, there's going to be way more than 500 milligrams of contaminants in the system before a drop of the new coolant mix is added.

[William F.]

Re: Radiator Additives - Snake Oil... or The Real Deal?

IF radiator, coolant pasages in engine are in good shape, distilled H2O and a G-05 antifreeze mixture is adaquate.However, if you need better heat transfer, Zerez division of Valvoline does make a "racing coolant aditive" which the Navy SEALs use in their boat engines in hot climates. I talked to the Valvoline engineer about this and he sent me a case which helped in a '67 with add on AC.. Has anticorrosion properties but no antifreeze protection-can add as much G05 as needed but works best with minimum or no antifreeze.Could be cynical but Valvoline engineer advised against "wetter water"brand additive since he said it creats air pockets in the coolant/coolant system and therefore hot spots.