Went to start my '65 L78 and noticed the clock was not running. The new, 1 month old battery was dead. I had replaced it because the one before was also dead even though it was on a trickle charger. Was told I must have a "live wire somewhere draining the battery". As I looked under the hood, just behind the battery are two plugs going into the firewall. The one closest to the drivers side was off and just laying there. I plugged it back into the socket. The car would run in either case. Could this have been what was draining the battery or do I need to look furthur?
Electrical question
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Re: Electrical question
Steve,generally a unplugged wire will not be of a concern for a battery draw. if it was a live wire then it could short to ground and would blow the fuse for that circut. I would be looking for a glove box light or dome light, under hood lamp if it was aval.? staying lite while the cars not running. Also a after market radio that is not wired correctly.New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.- Top
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Re: Electrical question
Went to start my '65 L78 and noticed the clock was not running. The new, 1 month old battery was dead. I had replaced it because the one before was also dead even though it was on a trickle charger. Was told I must have a "live wire somewhere draining the battery". As I looked under the hood, just behind the battery are two plugs going into the firewall. The one closest to the drivers side was off and just laying there. I plugged it back into the socket. The car would run in either case. Could this have been what was draining the battery or do I need to look furthur?
I would get a battery disconnect switch for my car.....and I would also buy or borrow a good multimeter (like Fluke) for testing, if you do not already have.
With the battery disconnected, I would put the multimeter across the disconnect and read the current(amp) draw. I would then start looking for the source of that problem, by removing one fuse at a time from the fuse block to see if the current is reduced/stopped. Then concentrate on what is connected to that fuse.
If removing the fuses does not isolate the problem, then begin disconnecting non-fused items using an electrical schematic for help.
You could have something like a bulb in the glove box that is always on and never goes off. A problem I found on my car, was that the clock points would occasionally stick closed...especially in the humid Louisiana summers. The amp draw through a set of closed clock points is about 6 amps....at least that is what I measured through mine. My Battery Tender charger was only good for about 2 amps, so I ran down the battery.
I am sure others have similar stories.
Get a battery disconnect, a good multimeter, and a set of electrical schematics for your car. DR REBUILD has an excellent color coded set that is easy to follow. I got a set for myself a year or so ago.
Larry- Top
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