C3 Body Shimming without doors attached

[David W.]

I am getting ready to drop the body back on my C3 (1980) and had assumed it would be ok to do so without the doors being on the car. The is a T-top car and after much reading and searching the archives I concluded this would work since the body did not have the flex of a convertible. Plus the weight savings from the doors being off should make adjusting the shims easier.
So for the final word on this before I re-introduce my frame and body, is this correct or do the doors need attached prior to mounting the body? It is a rust free, 100% structurally sound t-top car. The original shims are missing and damaged so I was just planning on starting with 2 shims on each of the #2 and #3 body mounts then shimming the #1 and #4 mounts after that. I had read that the #4 mount/shims could affect the door gaps on a convertible but could find nothing specifically mentioning shims or mounts do anything to change this on a t-top car.
Any and all help is very much appreciated.

[Russ S.]

Re: C3 Body Shimming without doors attached

I would say you should be just fine doing it without the doors on being it is a coupe.

[Dick W.]

Re: C3 Body Shimming without doors attached

You need the doors attached as shimming is one of the ways you adjust the door gaps and front and rear heights

[Timothy B.]

Re: C3 Body Shimming without doors attached

David,

I think you should install four shims on each corner mount in the box section, I guess that's #2 and #3. Install the doors and try to adjust paying attention to the alignment of the doors and the A pillar. Shims are added/removed to make the doors fit and line with the rear body lines.

The bottom line is that the body is shimmed on the frame to make it sit like it sat on the build truck when the body work and panels were attached.

[David W.]

Re: C3 Body Shimming without doors attached

Thanks for the replies. I think what I may try since the doors are off is sitting the body on the frame, shimming mounts 2 and 3 then re-attaching the doors. Installing shims at #1 and 4 mounts, snugging everything, then checking my gaps before final torquing.
I think this idea is a mixture of all suggestions I have received. I believe this will work for my situation.