need to pull engine - NCRS Discussion Boards

need to pull engine

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Paul J.
    Expired
    • September 9, 2008
    • 2091

    #16
    Re: need to pull engine

    Originally posted by Chuck Gongloff (5629)
    When you buy an engine "leveler" or "tipper", buy the good kind with the screw and handle. Don't get the cheapo kind with the cables that works by inserting a ratchet handle.

    Chuck
    This is an "el cheapo" one from Harbour Freight. There is a fine thread drive scew attached to the handle. It's pulled a lot of engines and it works great.

    IMG_0839.jpg

    Comment

    • Gerry P.
      Expired
      • October 28, 2007
      • 144

      #17
      Re: need to pull engine

      If you are in a real hurry, here is a link to a video on a quick engine removal.

      Comment

      • Duke W.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • January 1, 1993
        • 15661

        #18
        Re: need to pull engine

        Originally posted by Al Rains (13251)
        And what does this do to the overall charastics & function of the engine? Thanks
        See the Fall 2010 Corvette Restorer "...Tale of Two Camshafts" article for all the configuration details, operating characteristics, and performance tests.

        I'm still looking for a 327/300 owner to install a McCagh Special camshaft along with the head work and other recommended internal changes - either with a manual transmission or Powerglide. Given the near same displacement, but shorter stroke, a 327 should make nearly as much torque as Mike's engine with a simliarly flat curve, but the actual peak will be a few hundred revs higher.

        Likewise, given the better flowing 327 heads, the configuration should make more top end power at higher revs with the top of the useable rev range somewhere between 6000 and 6500.

        Mike's engine proved that the McCagh Special camshaft can pass a PV in any engine that originally had the base hydraulic lifter camshaft - 3733431 from '57 to '66 and 3896929 from '67 to '80.

        If you're interested, shoot me an email.

        Duke

        Comment

        • Patrick N.
          Very Frequent User
          • March 10, 2008
          • 954

          #19
          Re: need to pull engine

          Body Lift.jpg
          I've used the $24 leveler to pull the body- worked like a champ!

          Comment

          • William G.
            Very Frequent User
            • December 1, 1988
            • 138

            #20
            Re: need to pull engine

            Duke,

            I'm ALWAYS reluctant to ask a DUMB question.................but......at the risk of another! This has been bothering me for some time so I might just as well go ahead and take the leap. On this engine with the special camshaft and way more than the original advertised 300 hp (which passes PV) how is it possible to continue to use the 300 hp harmonic balancer while turning 1000 more revs? How does the 300 hp harmonic balancer do the job of the visibly much larger factory SHP balancer? Obviously, to me, that doesn't seem like a dumb question..........but. Thanks.

            WAG
            300 hp 1966 Bowtie coupe.

            Comment

            • Duke W.
              Beyond Control Poster
              • January 1, 1993
              • 15661

              #21
              Re: need to pull engine

              That's an excellent question!

              If the 300 HP crank was cast iron I could probably get away with saying that since cast iron has more inherent damping than steel, it's okay, but the 300 HP crank is forged steel, like the SHP cranks. The only differences with the SHP cranks are nitriding, which doesn't have an effect on the crank's torsional characteristics, and mass since the SHP crank is a little heavier due to additional balance mass for the heavier SHP pistons, and this may have some effect.

              Chevrolet has always had a durability qualification test prior to releasing an engine for production. Typically it involves cycling the engine under load from the torque to power peak - or the redline. Back then it was probably no more than 200 hours. Today, it's at least 400.

              So I expect they must have found that the crank had a torsional resonance above 5500, which dictated a more robust torsional damper.

              A lot of medium performance 327s have been hotrodded over the years (same applies to base 350s) to turn more than the OE redline, and I don't recall ever hearing of any that suffered any crankshaft ills, so the very small time that a Special 300 HP engine will spend in the 6000-up range in typical vintage car service likely won't do any harm. At the same time, I wouldn't recommend that someone run a Special 300 HP engine with 6000+ rev shift points in the 24 hours of LeMans unless it had a SHP crank with the big damper.

              It's too bad that Chevrolet didn't discover the weakness in the early rods during the durability qualification testing. That cost a lot of engines in the early to mid sixties.

              Duke

              P. S. The only "dumb" questions are the ones that have been asked and answered six times a year for the last 10+ years.

              Comment

              Working...
              Searching...Please wait.
              An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

              Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
              An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

              Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
              An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
              There are no results that meet this criteria.
              Search Result for "|||"