'61 Carb float sticking and Differential Plug

[Richard P.]

The carburetor float on 1961 4 barrel sticks and causes the engine to quit. If I tap the front of the carburetor it corrects problem, but sometimes have to do it again. Is there an easy fix without having to rebuild the carburetor?

Also the drain plug on the bottom of the rear differential is leaking. The bolt just keeps truning and will not tighten. How can I correct this so it will tighten and stop the leak?

Thanks!!

[Tom P.]

Re: '61 Carb float sticking and Differential Plug

Most probably there is a problem with the needle/seat in the carb (or the float itself could have a problem). There is no simple solution. The carb will have to be disassembled and rebuilt.

The bottom of the axle housing DOES NOT have a welded nut on the inside. The threads were made in the thickness of the housing, which is not very thick. They can be fairly easily stripped out. There are multiple ways to fix it, the easiest is to install an oversize drain plug (which I would NOT do on my car).
A proper fix will require disassembling the rear axle housing, and removing it from the car. The drain hole can then be welded and built up thicker then drilled and new threads tapped.
Or, in my opinion, the BEST fix is to have a nut welded INSIDE. I had this done to my axle housing because the threads were nearly stripped out. After the nut was welded in, I then drilled holes through a couple of the flats to permit the oil to drain out below the top of the nut.

[Mike B.]

Re: '61 Carb float sticking and Differential Plug

2 parts to my question first, my 61 with 2x4's 270 hp the front carb pours out gas through top of air horn and if you remove the 2 side plugs gas runs out so is that the float sticking? second, and what are the correct carb #'s for this set up

[Joe L.]

Re: '61 Carb float sticking and Differential Plug

2 parts to my question first, my 61 with 2x4's 270 hp the front carb pours out gas through top of air horn and if you remove the 2 side plugs gas runs out so is that the float sticking? second, and what are the correct carb #'s for this set up

Mike-----

Carbs are as follows:

front----Carter 2613S (early), Carter 3182S (late)

rear-----Carter 2614S

[Mike B.]

Re: '61 Carb float sticking and Differential Plug

thanks for fast response to carb ID's but since I am learning about c-1 if I understand correctly those numbers are the tag numbers but do they correspond to any numbers on the carb that I should be aware of instead of just trusting the tags that I can see. If that makes sense? thanks again, Mike

[Dennis C.]

Re: '61 Carb float sticking and Differential Plug

thanks for fast response to carb ID's but since I am learning about c-1 if I understand correctly those numbers are the tag numbers but do they correspond to any numbers on the carb that I should be aware of instead of just trusting the tags that I can see. If that makes sense? thanks again, Mike

Mike,

There is a nice chart in the 61-62 Judging manual that will give the numbers that should be stamped on the carbs. I don't have my manual with me to post here and I am not sure I remember the correct numbers to go by memory.

Dennis

[Mike B.]

Re: '61 Carb float sticking and Differential Plug

thanks for heads up

[Frank D.]

Re: '61 Carb float sticking and Differential Plug

Don't trust the triangular tags - they can be bought and stamped with whatever you like or swapped from other carbs.

Real deal 270hp carbs have 6-1299 air horns and the primary nozzles are cut at 45*; 6-1299 lids with straight up and down cut off primary nozzles are 245hp carbs....the other 'giveaway' is the counterweights and flapper arms. You can see the nozzle arrangement in the attached picture in my CF post (its MS-Word)

The carb body should be 0-049 or 0-1049 for either HP option. Float centering on the WCFBs is CRITICAL; the bowls are small and there isn't much room in there. The screws on the side of the main body are not sight plugs like Holley's; don't use them for gauging float level. The other issue could be a leaking float....these can be repaired or repros are available. The floats with the 'saddles' in the pontoons are the secondaries...the saddle being necessary to straddle the rear 'flapper' shaft housing in the bowl...

There are 18 screws of THREE different sizes in the air horn - do NOT mix them up or you will be stripping threads in the carb body...
Daytona Parts provides the best rebuild kits IMO; they have a unique 'thumbtack' type float design that tends to make for smoother idling (particularly on dual quads) and performance.. I set the dual quad floats with the air horn gasket removed and 1/4" and a 1/8" (vis a vis secondary/primary floats) drill bit...it works well...

[Mike B.]

Re: '61 Carb float sticking and Differential Plug

Thanks and thanks for the pics. Very helpful. I will be working on it this weekend and see what I actually have.

[Mike B.]

Re: '61 Carb float sticking and Differential Plug

decided not to wait and I don't have correct carbs as tb's are 108 and 1108 (frt and rear) and ah is 6-1354s on rear and 6- ____ as it looks to be ground off???? and nozzles are square cut as you said. Lesson learned, thanks for info again, MIke