Heater Blower Motor Switch Question

[Christopher A.]

My blower motor switch is very tight and does not like to pull out or push in to without excessive force. I lubricated the exposed portion of the internal cable, but that did not help. So, it looks like i need to unwind the end of the cable and remove it completely from the housing to see what it is binding on internally. Has anybody done this? It seems pretty straightforward, but before i jump in and break the cable, I thought it might be a good idea to ask for tips.

[Edward J.]

Re: Heater Blower Motor Switch Question

Chris unhook the cables from the heater box end and and try to see if the levers pull out easily, if okay try to lube the arms, the cable behind radio makes a sharp bend. The arm over the top of heater box has a few levers and pivot points.they can be lubed.

[Christopher A.]

Re: Heater Blower Motor Switch Question

I have the switch/cable assembly out of the car and unfortunately it binds even when straightened out. The heater box door actuating system moves freely. It is definitely something internal on the cable assembly.

[Edward J.]

Re: Heater Blower Motor Switch Question

Chris, years ago we had a tool at the dealer that made the cables, I am not sure if they reproduce the cables today. There must be a kink somewhere in the cable. How about trying to heat the cable housing with a little heat from a propane torch.? then some WD 40 after. maybe worth a try.

[Christopher A.]

Re: Heater Blower Motor Switch Question

The cables run around 120.00. Im just really trying my best not to end up with any more money in the car, but its not working out so well.

[Bill H.]

Re: Heater Blower Motor Switch Question

The one on my 67's tight but no evidence of rust.
i plan to do a one hour soak with PB Blaster then brake clean. I have a cable lube tool that clamps down on the outer jacket and the cable, it has a small hole that you can stick the red tube from WD/whatever into to force lube the cable. I've also hung cables vertically with a baggy secured on the housing with rubber bands, add WD to the baggy and let it sit overnite.
I also just picked up some liquid graphite that drys out after spraying but leaves the graphite, haven't tried it yet but i will on this cable. It's made by PB and my local Home D had it.

[Christopher A.]

Re: Heater Blower Motor Switch Question

The one on my 67's tight but no evidence of rust.
i plan to do a one hour soak with PB Blaster then brake clean. I have a cable lube tool that clamps down on the outer jacket and the cable, it has a small hole that you can stick the red tube from WD/whatever into to force lube the cable. I've also hung cables vertically with a baggy secured on the housing with rubber bands, add WD to the baggy and let it sit overnite.
I also just picked up some liquid graphite that drys out after spraying but leaves the graphite, haven't tried it yet but i will on this cable. It's made by PB and my local Home D had it.

Good suggestions! I will give them a try!

Thanks

[Paul J.]

Re: Heater Blower Motor Switch Question

The cables run around 120.00. Im just really trying my best not to end up with any more money in the car, but its not working out so well.

Chris, you understand that not only is this a 45 year old car, it probably has been used hard at some time in it's life. And they were not the most dependable cars when they were new. Whether you drive a vintage Corvette or only show it, it will eat up your wallet.

Paul

[Christopher A.]

Re: Heater Blower Motor Switch Question

Oh, i am well aware of it. Im just amazed at how pretty much everything has broken on the car, more than once. And some of these nice guys that restore electrical parts don't have warranties. Class acts all the way.