C2 1967 Holley Carburetor to Manifold Studs vs. Reproduction Studs

[Tom D.]

My reproduction carburetor hold down studs, for a '67 390 HP 427 (non-aluminum manifold) went too far into the manifold. After installation, I didn't feel the amount of threads left to hold the carb was near enough.

So I found my originals and took these photos. Note the un-threaded area that separates the "coarse threads" from the "fine threads". Using the originals allowed for proper length protruding from the intake manifold, simply because the studs don't go as far into the intake manifold.

I don't know if other vendors offer more original studs (more like the originals I ended up using.) I did a search before posting. I didn't see exactly the same point being made.

I did note previous discussion of the "hollow point" tops of these studs. I am not asking for comments, just wanting to help others the extra work I just went through.

Can't get the photos (they seem to meet the size restrictions) so I will post this and put photos on my website. Watch for a second thread item form me. /tom

[Tom D.]

Re: C2 1967 Holley Carburetor to Manifold Studs vs. Reproduction Studs

https://www.me.com/gallery/#100228

The above photo site holds the two photos I wanted to post. I will be looking to see what I am doing wrong in "Manage Attachments".

[William H.]

Re: C2 1967 Holley Carburetor to Manifold Studs vs. Reproduction Studs

Tom,

Do you know where you can get the correct studs? I'm striking out with the big Corvette suppliers. thanks if you can help. Bill

[Tom D.]

Re: C2 1967 Holley Carburetor to Manifold Studs vs. Reproduction Studs

William: I failed to remember this post when Apple stopped offering the "mobile me" photo gallery. So here is one of the photos I offered back in January. (I figured out how to post photos, and that's been discussed elsewhere in this forum. Basic Upload is the key for me.)

Looks as if you can make the repros work, just don't screw them fully down; Or look around for swap meet manifolds that still have the original studs (like the one on the right). There are lots of manifolds at every swap meet I go to. (I suggest the NCRS one in MICH on April 14th.) I will take a look around here also.

[Joe L.]

Re: C2 1967 Holley Carburetor to Manifold Studs vs. Reproduction Studs

William: I failed to remember this post when Apple stopped offering the "mobile me" photo gallery. So here is one of the photos I offered back in January. (I figured out how to post photos, and that's been discussed elsewhere in this forum. Basic Upload is the key for me.)

Looks as if you can make the repros work, just don't screw them fully down; Or look around for swap meet manifolds that still have the original studs (like the one on the right). There are lots of manifolds at every swap meet I go to. (I suggest the NCRS one in MICH on April 14th.) I will take a look around here also.

Tom and William-----

I think if you can find a part #23705 in the HELP! carded section of your local auto parts store you will have what you seek. Also, if you have a REAL auto parts store in your area that still has the Dorman Products "orange drawers", I think you'll find them there, too.

[William H.]

Re: C2 1967 Holley Carburetor to Manifold Studs vs. Reproduction Studs

perfect ideas there. I will, in the interim, not screw down the repos all the way. thanks much.

[David L.]

Re: C2 1967 Holley Carburetor to Manifold Studs vs. Reproduction Studs

Enclosed are some photos on my collection of carb to intake studs (original and reproduction). The length of the original studs varies from about 1 5/16" to 2". My studs from the 1966 BB intake (casting # 3866948) are about 1 5/16" long while the studs from my 1966 SB intake (casting # 3872783) are about 1 1/2" long.

The reproduction studs with Dorman (# 676-001), Hillman, Motomite, and Problem Solver labels are all 1 1/2" long.

[Clem Z.]

Re: C2 1967 Holley Carburetor to Manifold Studs vs. Reproduction Studs

use loctite on the part that goes into the manifold. just screw them in and leave the correct length stick out and when the loctite sets up install the carbs and nuts