My winter project was to complete the restoration of my 62 hardtop. The skin was painted when I did the car last spring, but I saved the rest of the hardtop restoration for this winter. I found a bunch of articles on hardtop restoration, but I did not find anything talking about how to remove and replace the window trim retaining strips that are attached to the back of the stainless trim.
When doing your hardtop restoration, you may need to remove and replace the retainers since they may be rusted, or a stud snapped off, both of which are common problems.
The problem with removing the retainer is that it is crimped inside of the stainless trim and trying to remove it can cause more damage adding many extra hours of trim repair/restoration.
There may be better ways to do this, but here is a summary of what worked for me.
Tools Needed:
- Dremel tool with a thin cut-off blade. I used 5 blades to do both of the rear window lower trim pieces.
- Small flat blade screwdriver.
- Quick grip bar clamp or similar clamp with rubber cushions
- Small piece of wood.
Step 1- Cut a slot through the retainer separating it into 2 pieces. You want to do this the entire length of the trim piece.
- When cutting the retainer, try to cut near the center and take your time. You do not want to cut through the front of the trim.
- I did a series of cuts going a little deeper each time so when I did the final cut I could easily control how deep the cutting wheel went.
Step 2Step 3 - Restore the trim pieces by removing any dings, surface preparation, buffing and polishing it. With the retainer removed you have access to the backside of the trim to bang out any dings. It also makes it safer to buff the trim without the studs so they do not get caught on the buffing wheels.
Step 4- Preparing the new retainers with studs
- The new replacement retainers are made of a plastic (clear polycarbonate) material that is very durable. I used masking tape to hold the studs in the retainer slots during installation. Note that the window retainer studs have a flat side that keeps them from spinning when installed so that flat must be aligned with the flat spot on the retainer before taping it in place.
Step 5 - Retainer strip install tool.
I tried to just push the retainer in by hand and even gently bang it, but that did not work and I was afraid to damage the trim if I banged harder. I used Quick grip bar clamp or similar clamp with rubber cushions and a small block of wood. This block of wood was just slightly narrower than the retaining strip. By compressing the clamp and wood block I was able to squeeze the retainer strip in with absolutely no damage to the trim or retainer.
- Using the clamp, I worked a 4" length of retainer at a time gently working it into the crimps a little at a time.
- When I was done installing the complete retainer, to make installing the trim easier and getting the studs through the rubber gasket holes, I wiggled the bolts free from the tape so they could be easily adjusted in the slot during installation.
Now all I have to do if complete putting my hardtop together.
I hope that you find this info helpful.
Tony
I posted a bunch more pictures of each step along with details here: Retainer trim Replacement
When doing your hardtop restoration, you may need to remove and replace the retainers since they may be rusted, or a stud snapped off, both of which are common problems.
The problem with removing the retainer is that it is crimped inside of the stainless trim and trying to remove it can cause more damage adding many extra hours of trim repair/restoration.
There may be better ways to do this, but here is a summary of what worked for me.
Tools Needed:
- Dremel tool with a thin cut-off blade. I used 5 blades to do both of the rear window lower trim pieces.
- Small flat blade screwdriver.
- Quick grip bar clamp or similar clamp with rubber cushions
- Small piece of wood.
Step 1- Cut a slot through the retainer separating it into 2 pieces. You want to do this the entire length of the trim piece.
- When cutting the retainer, try to cut near the center and take your time. You do not want to cut through the front of the trim.
- I did a series of cuts going a little deeper each time so when I did the final cut I could easily control how deep the cutting wheel went.
Step 2Step 3 - Restore the trim pieces by removing any dings, surface preparation, buffing and polishing it. With the retainer removed you have access to the backside of the trim to bang out any dings. It also makes it safer to buff the trim without the studs so they do not get caught on the buffing wheels.
Step 4- Preparing the new retainers with studs
- The new replacement retainers are made of a plastic (clear polycarbonate) material that is very durable. I used masking tape to hold the studs in the retainer slots during installation. Note that the window retainer studs have a flat side that keeps them from spinning when installed so that flat must be aligned with the flat spot on the retainer before taping it in place.
Step 5 - Retainer strip install tool.
I tried to just push the retainer in by hand and even gently bang it, but that did not work and I was afraid to damage the trim if I banged harder. I used Quick grip bar clamp or similar clamp with rubber cushions and a small block of wood. This block of wood was just slightly narrower than the retaining strip. By compressing the clamp and wood block I was able to squeeze the retainer strip in with absolutely no damage to the trim or retainer.
- Using the clamp, I worked a 4" length of retainer at a time gently working it into the crimps a little at a time.
- When I was done installing the complete retainer, to make installing the trim easier and getting the studs through the rubber gasket holes, I wiggled the bolts free from the tape so they could be easily adjusted in the slot during installation.
Now all I have to do if complete putting my hardtop together.
I hope that you find this info helpful.
Tony
I posted a bunch more pictures of each step along with details here: Retainer trim Replacement
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