C2 - Header panel bonding strip removal

[Michael B.]

I am in the process of restoring my '63 convertible, and need to remove a poorly repaired header panel/bonding strip from the car. Thus far I have been able to separate the rear most edge bonding strip from the hood surround (see crummy cell phone pics below), but I am trying to figure out how to access the sides and front edge. I can access the front edge behind the headlight buckets by removing the buckets, but I cannot access the middle section between the buckets.

Any advice you can provide would be great.

At this point all I can think of is to use a very long putty knife and go at it from the back side. Can't seem to find a putty knife that long though!

Thanks,
Mike






Front end was replaced in the mid seventies (last time the car ran) with a GM service hood surround. The hood surround was installed properly, but I removed the inner fenders to replace them with proper '63 versions. Next step is removing the header panel because I believe it is slightly bent and thus the nose isn't as straight as it should be.

[Wayne W.]

Re: C2 - Header panel bonding strip removal

Not going to be an easy one, depending on what it is bonded with. Hopefully not a good product.

I use a long machete, corn knife, looks like a broken sword, and a hammer.

[Joe M.]

Re: C2 - Header panel bonding strip removal

Ah, surgery, love it!

you might try cutting the rivets on the header bar as I beleive the metal bar is simply riveted to the fiberglass bonding strip which is then glued to the skin.

Once you get the metal support bar off then decide how you want to proceed. Either have at separating the bonding strip or leave it in place and use a new header bar.

New glues allow for bonding glass to metal so you can dispense with rivets or glue some in place for looks.

Be sure that it is the header bar that is causing the misalignment before you start. consire the two support rods may be manipulated to make some adjustment. Radiator support, etc issues?

If you try to do the separation of bonding strip from skin first, make a start using a dremel with a disc and sacrifice the bonding strip in favor of the skin. Later grind the remnants of the bonding strip from the glass underside. A putty knife ground thin or a fine chisel or a hack saw blade wrapped in tape and used like a primitive villager sawing a rosewood log.

Time for creativity.

Love those black GM top surrounds! Paid 65$$ each for a couple of them back in the late 70s.