Fuel line replacement

[Kurt G.]

Now that I have the rear suspension out of my '72 coupe, I am thinking it might be a good time to replace the very rusty original fuel lines. My delemna is that I really don't want to pull the body off, as I am concerned about the rusty condition of the mounts, especially the ones just aft of the rear wheel wells giving me major problems. I have heard it can be done, and with very little left in the way, thougth this might be a good time. Is there anyone out there that has done a fuel line replacement without pulling the body. I know it ain't gonna be easy. If you did, did you start at the back and thread the lines forward patiently, or just how is the easiest way to do it?

Thanks in advance.

[Bill C.]

Re: Fuel line replacement

Kurt,


it can be done, but it is a GIGANTIC pain in the butt!!!

Is your car an auto or 4 speed? The auto is a bit easier - you can remove the cross member and make room. The 4 speed is hard as hell since the fuel line is snaked through it.

If you can, raise the body about 6-10 inches - makes all the difference.

The vapor return line on the DVR side is as much trouble as the fuel on the PASS side.

Sorry for not so good news....

Bill

[Joseph K.]

Re: Fuel line replacement

Kurt,


it can be done, but it is a GIGANTIC pain in the butt!!!

Is your car an auto or 4 speed? The auto is a bit easier - you can remove the cross member and make room. The 4 speed is hard as hell since the fuel line is snaked through it.

If you can, raise the body about 6-10 inches - makes all the difference.

The vapor return line on the DVR side is as much trouble as the fuel on the PASS side.

Sorry for not so good news....

Bill

I agree with Bill. I tried with a 4 speed and ended up with spaghetti.

Joe

[Tom L.]

Re: Fuel line replacement

I had your same thoughts last winter so here's what I did. My '72 is an automatic so that made whings easier. To get a feel for what I was in for I decided to remove the old lines in one piece. That was a job in itself. Removing them required re-shaping them to drag them out, this made me think that I'd have to re-shape them to get them back in and I was right.

I basically did the same thing in reverse. The worst part was trying to get them back into shape so they would clamp down and look correct. Unfortunately the lines were pretty marked of from forcing them theough spaces they weren't designed to go through.

In the end they came out OK but if I had the chance to do it over I'd take the time to lift each side of the body a few inches to make the job easier and better looking. Not sure if the over all time invested would be any greater. I have pics at home of the finished product if you want them.

Patience is very important!! Good luck!!

[Kurt G.]

Re: Fuel line replacement

Thanks for the comments guys. You only added to my stress level. My main concern is the rear body mount bolt and the way it attaches to the body. I understand that the nut, if you can call it that is loosely fitted into the metal plate just aft of the wheel well, and if it has any rust on it it will strip the nut out of the plate that it is riveted to. Any suggestions on how to deal with this potential problem?

[Bill C.]

Re: Fuel line replacement

Kurt,

spray the hell out the captive nut with PB Blaster -- will loosen any rust it runs into. You have to scoot the carpet out of the way a little bit to get at it.

Those bolts would have to be terrible to spin the captive nut.

I be a little more worried with the bolts under the cover in the rear wheel.
You can't get at the nut in the frame rail to spray anything on it. It sits on top of the frame and is tucked up under the rocker channel.

....

Bill

[Paul O.]

Re: Fuel line replacement

Kurt

With a Coupe it is much easier to gain access to the caged nut then a Convertible it is at least 10 times harder to deal with. As Bill stated the #3 body mount is one of the hardest to deal with other then #4 on a Convertible. The reinforcement at the #4 mount can be re-riveted to the body if needed it just time effort and a bunch of patients. Just be glad that it is not a Convertible. Use Kroill or PB blaster to help free the bolts and nuts apply it every day for a week then try to loosen the bolts. Some times when you are loosening the bolts turn the bolt to loosen a few degrees then tighten it back a few. Then reapply the the lubricant to penetrate the threads. Also tapping with a ball peen hammer on the bolt heads can also help free the nut from the bolt it causes a vibration breaking the rust bond. Just be patient and work at it slowly.


Paul 18046

[Alan S.]

Re: Fuel line replacement

Hi Paul,
Your reference to a "bunch of patients" made me picture a group of guys standing around looking at the rusted body mounts, dressed in hospital gowns and paper slippers... not a pretty picture.
I take my laughs where I can get them these days.
Regards,
Alan