Rear Susp Rebuild - refurb or replace

[Jack O.]

I started out replacing my fuel sending unit and its expanded into rebuilding my rear suspension. From a lot of pictures I've seen of restored rear suspensions it appears that many of the bare metal parts and nuts/bolts have been painted as opposed to being left bare metal or, in the case of the nuts/bolts, been replaced.
I'm wondering which parts should be replaced versus being refurbished. For example, I read the posts on the rear spring and since mine has a lot of arch (how much should it have?) I will rebuild it.
I see a lot about Heavy Duty rear end covers because originals crack - true?
Do sway bars wear out?
What about the nuts/bolts? It would seem wise to replace all these but I'm worried about being able to get quality reproductions and not chinese crap.
It appears a lot of folks paint their bare metal parts (half shafts, sway bar, etc., correct? I assume that's because even having stripped them they still are not in good shape.
Should the bare metal parts be sand blasted or is there some other preferred method to restore them. I assume based on how they look when bare a person decides whether to clear them or use some "bare metal" appearing paint from somewhere like Eastwwod?
Thanks in advance for any help!

[Joe L.]

Re: Rear Susp Rebuild - refurb or replace

I started out replacing my fuel sending unit and its expanded into rebuilding my rear suspension. From a lot of pictures I've seen of restored rear suspensions it appears that many of the bare metal parts and nuts/bolts have been painted as opposed to being left bare metal or, in the case of the nuts/bolts, been replaced.
I'm wondering which parts should be replaced versus being refurbished. For example, I read the posts on the rear spring and since mine has a lot of arch (how much should it have?) I will rebuild it.
I see a lot about Heavy Duty rear end covers because originals crack - true?
Do sway bars wear out?
What about the nuts/bolts? It would seem wise to replace all these but I'm worried about being able to get quality reproductions and not chinese crap.
It appears a lot of folks paint their bare metal parts (half shafts, sway bar, etc., correct? I assume that's because even having stripped them they still are not in good shape.
Should the bare metal parts be sand blasted or is there some other preferred method to restore them. I assume based on how they look when bare a person decides whether to clear them or use some "bare metal" appearing paint from somewhere like Eastwwod?
Thanks in advance for any help!

Jack------


Most rear springs can be rebuilt using new liners. However, if any leaf suffers from serious pitting from corrosion, the spring might not be a good candidate for rebuild (unless you can obtain a good leaf from another used original spring).

HD aftermarket rear covers are NOT necessary. Use proper procedure when installing the spring. Lack thereof is what causes most broken covers.

Most original bolts can be re-used IF they suffer from no serious corrosion or other damage. Any bolt that is damaged in any way and is part of a safety related system (which includes virtually all suspension bolts) should be replaced with a high quality bolt of original material rating. Safety first, original headmarking second.

Sway bars being a spring do not usually wear out. However, corrosion or other damage can render them unfit for further use.

[Bill L.]

Re: Rear Susp Rebuild - refurb or replace

That is quite a mouthful.

A lot depends on how faithful you choose to be to original. While I prefer original where possible I hate rusty parts too. An example is having my exhaust manifolds jet hot coated versus leaving them bare as originally was done by GM.

There are ways to keep the bare steel relatively rust free too.

I prefer to use original bolts wherever I can. I had no rust issues so it was an easy decision. Like Joe says, if there is any significant corrosion/rust bolts should be replaced with appropriate grade bolt.

A lot will depend on whether you plan to have your C3 judged or not. I am redoing some things on mine since I have decided to eventually have mine go through flight judging.

Bill

[Jack O.]

Re: Rear Susp Rebuild - refurb or replace

Thanks for the advice Joe and Bill. Yes, I had a lot of questions and considered breaking it up into multiple posts but just let it go. I'm sure as I get into this further I'll have more questions.
Bill, when you did your suspension how did you restore your sway bar and half shafts?

[Bill L.]

Re: Rear Susp Rebuild - refurb or replace

HI Jack,

350/350 so no rear sway bar.

If you perform a search there are some excellent threads and I am pretty sure a member or two who can actually restore the finish. You will need to use some caution when pressing the u joints out and in.

I have not done my half shafts other than simple u-joints and I had a very reputable shop do them. I am not going to attempt restoring the finish on my originals. I will leave that to someone with a lot more experience.

Sorry I am not more help.


Bill

[Joe L.]

Re: Rear Susp Rebuild - refurb or replace

Thanks for the advice Joe and Bill. Yes, I had a lot of questions and considered breaking it up into multiple posts but just let it go. I'm sure as I get into this further I'll have more questions.
Bill, when you did your suspension how did you restore your sway bar and half shafts?

Jack-----


The original finish on big block half shafts can easily be restored by having them shot-peened. Keeping them from further rusting in an undetectable way can be tricky, though.

The original finish on small block half shafts cannot be accurately restored.

[Bill H.]

Re: Rear Susp Rebuild - refurb or replace

Jack-----

The original finish on small block half shafts cannot be accurately restored.

Is there any way to get them "close", Joe?

[Joe L.]

Re: Rear Susp Rebuild - refurb or replace

Is there any way to get them "close", Joe?

Bill-----


Yes, there is----"re-tube" them. This process involves removing the yoke ends and welding-in a fresh section of extruded tube. The problem is that I don't think the extruded tube is available anymore in the exact OD/ID configuration used for the original half shafts.

Otherwise, I don't know of a way. The natural appearance of extruded tube is impossible to replicate or get even close with any restorative procedure I'm aware of.

Quanta does/used to offer a service in which they turned the half-shafts in a lathe and removed a very slight amount of material from the tube, re-establishing a "fresh" surface. The problem is I don't think that original tubes had this very metallic-appearing, machined surface.

[Gary B.]

Re: Rear Susp Rebuild - refurb or replace

B.. The natural appearance of extruded tube ..."

Joe, I believe the original tubing for C2 halfshafts was not extruded, it was longitudinal seam welded. One can purchase new, seam welded halfshafts from Long Island Corvette, I believe. At least I think that's where I think I purchased mine about 6 or 7 years ago.

I just noticed the original posting was in regard to C3 cars. Maybe C3s used extruded tubing for the halfshafts?

Gary

[Bill H.]

Re: Rear Susp Rebuild - refurb or replace

Quanta does/used to offer a service in which they turned the half-shafts in a lathe and removed a very slight amount of material from the tube, re-establishing a "fresh" surface. The problem is I don't think that original tubes had this very metallic-appearing, machined surface.

Thanks, Joe.
That's interesting, I have a lathe in my shop, might play with them a bit.

[Joe L.]

Re: Rear Susp Rebuild - refurb or replace

Joe, I believe the original tubing for C2 halfshafts was not extruded, it was longitudinal seam welded. One can purchase new, seam welded halfshafts from Long Island Corvette, I believe. At least I think that's where I think I purchased mine about 6 or 7 years ago.

I just noticed the original posting was in regard to C3 cars. Maybe C3s used extruded tubing for the halfshafts?

Gary

Gary------

Yes, you're correct; it was actually a welded tube. However, to me it had the same surface finish appearance as extruded tube. So, that's why I use that term to describe it.