Need a simple engine start circuit before body drop

[Tracy C.]

I've read Bill Sangrey's article in the back issue of the Restorer on the dash board box and studied the wire diagram. I'm no sparky, but this diagram doesn't make sense to me. I'm looking for a simpler approach.

I'm intriqued by the diagram posted by John H. in this thread.
https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...agram&uid=9817

On my 63, I plan to replace the key switch in this diagram with a simple toggle switch to provide power to run and and means to shut off the engine. I also want to insert a push button starter switch in the circuit but need to know how to connect it.

Can someone help?

tc

[Joe R.]

Re: Need a simple engine start circuit before body drop

I've read Bill Sangrey's article in the back issue of the Restorer on the dash board box and studied the wire diagram. I'm no sparky, but this diagram doesn't make sense to me. I'm looking for a simpler approach.

I'm intriqued by the diagram posted by John H. in this thread.
https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...agram&uid=9817

On my 63, I plan to replace the key switch in this diagram with a simple toggle switch to provide power to run and and means to shut off the engine. I also want to insert a push button starter switch in the circuit but need to know how to connect it.

Can someone help?

tc

Tracy,

Since you're looking for a temporary circuit, I would suggest getting one of those remote starter switches at your local auto parts store. Here's an example:

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...282381620&An=0

Basically, the switch is in series, between the battery's hot lead and the starter. Hopefully, someone will chime in with how to connect up to the starter.

Joe

[Ronald L.]

Re: Need a simple engine start circuit before body drop

Works like a charm.

The remote starter button clips go on the big post and the inner small post if your solenoid is the same configuration as the 66-70's which I think it is. You can test this with a starter laying on the floor. The batt + is always on the big post for power and the ground is either on the block or the starter bolt, so put power to the starter and test it that way. Give the remote button a hit, if the starter engages you have the proper terminal, if it doesn't switch them.

The on/off switch for power to the coil keeps you from burning up the points, and obviously to stop the engine. You can do this with alligator clips but put the switch where its easy to get at in case something goes wrong.

If this is the first time running the engine, pull the plugs, so its easy spinning and let the engine pull the fuel into your system, no need to risk accidents pouring fuel into the carb and trying a hard start cold.

I assume you have the heater hose looped around and a good support for the radiator so you can tune it and let it run for a while. Make sure your wheels are chucked and no way anything can hit the sifter or trans a flip something in gear.

[Timothy B.]

Re: Need a simple engine start circuit before body drop

Tracy,

Just hook the battery like normal and run a seperate wire from battery + to ballast then to coil +, put this wire on a simple switch so you can shut the engine off when finished.

Run another wire from battery + through another switch to the solenoid S terminal, this will power the starter for cranking and the switch will stop the starter when the engine fires. Don't worry about the alternator etc., all you want to do is run the motor, break in and check for leaks.

Install the radiator in the core support if it's available and use a fan to push air through the radiator. Make sure you support the core support so it does not hit the engine fan.

Put some gas in the carburetor vent tubes and have fun.

[Tracy C.]

Re: Need a simple engine start circuit before body drop

Thanks Tim,

This is the simple answer I was hoping for. My "S" terminal is the one nearest the block.

I plan to run without a fan or radiator. I will just supply cool water to the water pump via a garden hose connection and let it dump overboard past the thermostat through a 6 ft. drain pipe connected to the housing. I do have a oil pressure gauge and tach connected. I'll monitor temperature with my IR gun. Hopefully some of my chapter buddies will come over to watch/help with the circus.

I will video the whole event and post a youtube link when finished. This type of thing is an everyday thing to some folks, but I haven't rebuilt an engine and started it since high school.

Can't wait !

tc

[Jimmy B.]

Re: Need a simple engine start circuit before body drop

remember, your distributor is connected to the negative side of the coil.

[David H.]

Re: Need a simple engine start circuit before body drop

[QUOTE=Tracy Crisler (40411)... Hopefully some of my chapter buddies will come over to watch/help with the circus.

I will video the whole event and post a youtube link when finished. ...

tc[/QUOTE]

When? Always up for the circus! I'm in Carlisle for a few days.

[Ronald L.]

Re: Need a simple engine start circuit before body drop

Tracy,
I'd try to avoid the potential of cavitation air lock in the water pump or engine with just the garden hose technique. You never know what might happen.

Plus - if your intent is to prove out major issues, oil leaks are one type, you have a lot more coolant circulating that oil and that means more potential leak points.

You really want to get it running up at temperature to be sure you are not poping a leak somewhere like the intake water jackets, head gaskets, water pump and lower motor jackets.

You just need one adapter to take the 5/8 hose around and loop it to the 3/4 hose. Then install the radiator and fan and a support device which can simply be fabricated from plywood and bolted to the frame holes where the bumper brackets bolt in.

[Tracy C.]

Re: Need a simple engine start circuit before body drop

Tracy,
I'd try to avoid the potential of cavitation air lock in the water pump or engine with just the garden hose technique. You never know what might happen.

Plus - if your intent is to prove out major issues, oil leaks are one type, you have a lot more coolant circulating that oil and that means more potential leak points.

You really want to get it running up at temperature to be sure you are not poping a leak somewhere like the intake water jackets, head gaskets, water pump and lower motor jackets.

You just need one adapter to take the 5/8 hose around and loop it to the 3/4 hose. Then install the radiator and fan and a support device which can simply be fabricated from plywood and bolted to the frame holes where the bumper brackets bolt in.

I will loop the heater hose to allow full internal circulation. The themostat will maintain at least 180 degrees internally albeit, the system will not pressurize. I kinda hate to introduce my new Dewitts rad in the mix because of the potential for accellerated internal corrosion in storage after it drains and drys. I doubt if I will mate the body and finish up final installation of the rad for a least a year. Remember, It's taken me since 1989 to get this far..

If I had an old copper rad i would add it to the mix, maybe something will become availlible between now and next weekend when I give this a whirl.

tc

[Ronald L.]

Re: Need a simple engine start circuit before body drop

Tracy,
Distilled water costs 83 cents a gallon out in KC, 5 gallons and you won't ever have that issue with copper, nearly impossible w/o the chloride ion present. Remember before the steel age came bronze and copper.

I would use a DW and coolant mix more to protect the block, NEVER faucet water that is filled with all sorts of things are bad for the block and for your insides. I did this prove-out and then the car sat 10 years, I know what you are saying about the time lag. If you do let it sit a year, start changing the coolant at least every year. Once you get a rust problem inside a block, there isn't enough corrosion protective additives on the planet to fix and internal issue, you'll never get that out of the engine, again by experience.

[Richard R.]

Re: Need a simple engine start circuit before body drop

Tracy, if you are going to crank the motor without the body you will need a ballast resistor between the battery and the coil. The wire in your wiring harness has the required resistance for this. If you plan on running it for any length of time I would invest in the resistor. Buy one for a 55 chevy and you will be in good shape. Hope this helps

[John H.]

Re: Need a simple engine start circuit before body drop

Tracy, if you are going to crank the motor without the body you will need a ballast resistor between the battery and the coil. The wire in your wiring harness has the required resistance for this.

Richard -

The resistance wire to the coil (+) didn't start until 1968 (Tim noted the need for the ballast resistor in post #4).

[Tracy C.]

Re: Need a simple engine start circuit before body drop

Yes, I already have the resistor for the car and will use it in my circuit. I've also decided to take Ron's advise and rig in my new radiator. I'll just leave it all set up when I've finished too. I suspect it will be a great motivator to fire that puppy up from time to time and listen to it sing..

tc