Garage door openers/Lifts

[Bruce B.]

Re: Garage door openers/Lifts

I have a Wayne Dalton I Drive opener on the door ( 9 foot) where my lift is located.
Nice unit, easy self install. Comes with 2 remote controls, 1 wall control, outdoor keypad and a neat wireless ceiling light.
Only works on torsion spring doors.
5 years and no problems except a blown fuse which I caused. The fuse is $25.00, so I made my own.

[Joe R.]

Re: Garage door openers/Lifts

I have a Wayne Dalton I Drive opener on the door ( 9 foot) where my lift is located.
Nice unit, easy self install. Comes with 2 remote controls, 1 wall control, outdoor keypad and a neat wireless ceiling light.
Only works on torsion spring doors.
5 years and no problems except a blown fuse which I caused. The fuse is $25.00, so I made my own.

Bruce,

Any pictures of your homemade fuse? $25.00 seems pretty steep to me, too! But, unless you're certain that your home built fuse will break that circuit at the same current draw as the original, I'd feel much safer spending the $25.00. Just my two cents worth.

Joe

[Bruce B.]

Re: Garage door openers/Lifts

Joe,
I got a 6 amp slow blow fuse from a friend, soldered wires to it and pluged into fuse sockets on the PC board.
The original fuse blew when I tried to open the door after a vacation, I forgot to take the security pins out of the track. DUH....
Bruce B

[Joe R.]

Re: Garage door openers/Lifts

Joe,
I got a 6 amp slow blow fuse from a friend, soldered wires to it and pluged into fuse sockets on the PC board.
The original fuse blew when I tried to open the door after a vacation, I forgot to take the security pins out of the track. DUH....
Bruce B

Bruce,

Good, I feel much better now. I was hoping you weren't talking about a bolt.

Joe

[Anthony P.]

Re: Garage door openers/Lifts

I have a liftmaster with extended high tracks that bring the doors almost right up to the 15' ceiling. Definitely enough room to put the cars way up to stack 2 cars.
Tony

[Harry S.]

Re: Garage door openers/Lifts

Tim, you will also be amazed how quiet those side mount liftmaster motors are. It doesn't shake the house or wake sleeping people early in the morning.

[Tom R.]

Re: Garage door openers/Lifts

Tim, you will also be amazed how quiet those side mount liftmaster motors are. It doesn't shake the house or wake sleeping people early in the morning.

Your exhaust note takes care of that. I still haven't figured out why those Sat morning coffee guys want to be there so early on their day off. Baffling.

[Pat M.]

Re: Garage door openers/Lifts

I have a 12' ceiling in my garage, and had the 18' x 8' sectional door in front of my lift bay converted to the "high-lift" configuration; the horizontal rails are about 7" from the ceiling, and the center operator rail is about 2" from the ceiling. They added a dummy panel to the top of the door to solve the geometry issue, and it's worked like a charm for eleven years; cost about $500, and took four hours to make the conversion - uses the original opener.

John, what did you use to coat your floor, it looks great.

[John H.]

Re: Garage door openers/Lifts

John, what did you use to coat your floor, it looks great.

Pat -

It's industrial solvent-based epoxy (2 coats), applied in 2000 by Home Pro Floors (www.homeprofloors.com) when I had the house built.

I knew from previous experience that an absolutely dry and moisture-impermeable slab was the key to epoxy adhesion and durability, so I first laid down a 10-mil poly (Visqueen) moisture barrier, then covered that with 5/8"-thick 4' x 8' tongue-and-groove sheets of high-density closed-cell foam with heavy foil on both sides, then poured the slab over that and let it cure for 90 days. There's ZERO moisture migration, and the floor is always warm and dry, even when it's below zero outside.

Then Home Pro steel shot-blasted the entire slab to open the "skin" on the concrete and provide "tooth" for the epoxy, and poured the first (clear) epoxy coat; they came back 24 hours later and poured the finish coat, tinted the color I selected, and 48 hours later I was driving on it.

That was eleven years ago, and the floor is indestructible - not even a chip where parts and tools have been dropped on it, nothing stains it, and it's ridiculously easy to keep clean; occasional soft-bristle push-broom, and a hose in the spring to wash all the winter snow/salt residue out the doors on the daily-driver side.

[Pat M.]

Re: Garage door openers/Lifts

Pat -

It's industrial solvent-based epoxy (2 coats), applied in 2000 by Home Pro Floors (www.homeprofloors.com) when I had the house built.

I knew from previous experience that an absolutely dry and moisture-impermeable slab was the key to epoxy adhesion and durability, so I first laid down a 10-mil poly (Visqueen) moisture barrier, then covered that with 5/8"-thick 4' x 8' tongue-and-groove sheets of high-density closed-cell foam with heavy foil on both sides, then poured the slab over that and let it cure for 90 days. There's ZERO moisture migration, and the floor is always warm and dry, even when it's below zero outside.

Then Home Pro steel shot-blasted the entire slab to open the "skin" on the concrete and provide "tooth" for the epoxy, and poured the first (clear) epoxy coat; they came back 24 hours later and poured the finish coat, tinted the color I selected, and 48 hours later I was driving on it.

That was eleven years ago, and the floor is indestructible - not even a chip where parts and tools have been dropped on it, nothing stains it, and it's ridiculously easy to keep clean; occasional soft-bristle push-broom, and a hose in the spring to wash all the winter snow/salt residue out the doors on the daily-driver side.

Wow, sounds remarkably durable and it just looks fantastic. Along with the other surroundings your garage looks like the interior of a home.

I tried the Rustoleum epoxy years ago and while it came out pretty good, and is pretty durable, it has thin spots and has even peeled in a couple small areas. If there is a "next time" I'm definitely gonna try your coating.

[Paul J.]

Re: Garage door openers/Lifts

Wow, sounds remarkably durable and it just looks fantastic. Along with the other surroundings your garage looks like the interior of a home.

I tried the Rustoleum epoxy years ago and while it came out pretty good, and is pretty durable, it has thin spots and has even peeled in a couple small areas. If there is a "next time" I'm definitely gonna try your coating.

Pat, John's floor is the same as the epoxy floors that you find in a factory. They are shot peened for "tooth", and although some say a muriatic acid bath is sufficient, all of the pro floor installers shot peen the floor prior to coating. This is the only way that your going to prevent hot lifting and peeling. I've spent a lot of time on factory floors and they're tremendously durable.

Notice that John doesn't have the plastic specs of the floor that hide any screws dropped while working on the car.

Paul

[Michael J.]

Re: Garage door openers/Lifts

Pat, John's floor is the same as the epoxy floors that you find in a factory. They are shot peened for "tooth", and although some say a muriatic acid bath is sufficient, all of the pro floor installers shot peen the floor prior to coating. This is the only way that your going to prevent hot lifting and peeling. I've spent a lot of time on factory floors and they're tremendously durable.

Notice that John doesn't have the plastic specs of the floor that hide any screws dropped while working on the car.

Paul

That's exactly what the painters did for my two garage floors, and they have held up very well over the years, except for some sun fading on the outside part. They used this product, saying it was the best they had ever tried over the years: http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...2C+1+gallon.do