'65 Rear Wheel Squeak

[Larry B.]

While coasting to a stop, I noticed a squeaking coming from the right rear. I jacked up the wheel and grabbed it at the 12 and 6 "0" clock positions. I moved the wheel back and forth from top to bottom and their was only very little play. However, I did hear a slight squeaking sound. There was no squeak when I spun the wheel by hand. Is this a bearing or a brake issue? Is this something to worry about? Thanks, Larry

[Fred C.]

Re: '65 Rear Wheel Squeak

Larry I just went through the same thing on my 65. I would have sworn it was the bearings but it was a brake problem. It was the right rear and had an intermittent squeak. I had a guy helping me and he said a bolt on the brakes was too long and was rubbing when the brake pads wore down. I was not there when he fixed so I cant tell you much more than that. Hope this helps.
Fred

[Larry B.]

Re: '65 Rear Wheel Squeak

Thanks Fred. Brakes pads in good shape.

[Jack P.]

Re: '65 Rear Wheel Squeak

Sometimes, the rear rubber bushing on the the rear spring will squeak. Squirt some w-40 on it and see if the the squeak goes away if not,

A haft-shaft u joint can be the culprit



I had a little squeak when I left home for my 48 state trip

Turned into a big problem 700 miles from Jim Durham in Tacoma. We fixed it, but it could have been disastrous.

Coast down a little hill or get up speed and turn off engine , and listen , if it squeaks every revolution, check your u-joints. Look for reddish powder.

Jack

[Larry B.]

Re: '65 Rear Wheel Squeak

Thanks Jack. No rust on the u-joint. They were recently greased by zerk fitting. If I grab the half shaft and move it back and forth would this identify a bad u-joint? Or is there a better way to check the u-joint?

[Jack P.]

Re: '65 Rear Wheel Squeak

Someone , who knows more than I , post and give directions for checking out u-joint. You should have no slop in the u joint, you will have movement of wheel / differential, but the u joint should not have any up/down in/out movement within flange, if so, bearing inside are going south,

Check closely for red powder, if greased, and good , no squeak

Jack

[Michael W.]

Re: '65 Rear Wheel Squeak

Most worn out u-joints will not appear anything less than perfect until taken apart.

[Paul J.]

Re: '65 Rear Wheel Squeak

Thanks Jack. No rust on the u-joint. They were recently greased by zerk fitting. If I grab the half shaft and move it back and forth would this identify a bad u-joint? Or is there a better way to check the u-joint?

Larry, Jack's u-joints had a lot rust because they were old, he lives near the ocean, and he drives his car on the salted roads in the winter. He's also driven it around the world.

Like Michael said, u-joints only have play after the bearings have failed, or are in the process of failing. When they start to fail they go squeak, squeak, squeak.... Jack's test is the best method. Roll the car 2-3 feet away from a masonry wall at 2-3 mph and listen. You can also have someone walk along beside of the car. The squeaks should be short and frequent (and fast). If the squeaking is of a longer duration, then it's usually the pads or a metal to metal contact in the wheel or brake assembly.

Paul

[Larry B.]

Re: '65 Rear Wheel Squeak

Paul, It is hard to tell but it appears frequent. When I jacked it up and I move the wheel in and out at 6 and 12 0 clock, I will hear a brief squeak then it will go away. If I rotate the tire and move the wheel in and out again the squeak will come back and go away. If I rotate the wheel by hand round and round there is no noise. Seams it only does it when rolling with a load. I hate to take the u-joints apart without a better diagnosis. I forgot to a add that the car has knock offs, if that matters.

[Jack P.]

Re: '65 Rear Wheel Squeak

Paul, It is hard to tell but it appears frequent. When I jacked it up and I move the wheel in and out at 6 and 12 0 clock, I will hear a brief squeak then it will go away. If I rotate the tire and move the wheel in and out again the squeak will come back and go away. If I rotate the wheel by hand round and round there is no noise. Seams it only does it when rolling with a load. I hate to take the u-joints apart without a better diagnosis. I forgot to a add that the car has knock offs, if that matters.

if it quacks like a duck, looks like a duck......

How old are your u joints? They are cheap about $18 , do them and forget about it for the next 30 to 50 thousand miles.

When I got back from my trip, I redid all ujoints and drive shaft ujoints.

Once done, you can rest at ease at any speed, knowing that your haft shaft is not going to take your rear end off, and I mean the one you sit on

Jack

jack

[Dick G.]

Re: '65 Rear Wheel Squeak

I had a squeak in the back and it was coming from the calipers. I checked the run out non the rotor and found it was out, I forget how much, but enough so the when the pads were loose the edge of the pad would move ever so slightly against the caliper and squeak. I solved the problem slipping little piece of plastic channel over the metal ends of the pads....problem solved. Might be worth a try before tearing the shafts out. I've since changed the calipers and rotors during an up grade to a dual master.

[Larry B.]

Re: '65 Rear Wheel Squeak

I had a squeak in the back and it was coming from the calipers. I checked the run out non the rotor and found it was out, I forget how much, but enough so the when the pads were loose the edge of the pad would move ever so slightly against the caliper and squeak. I solved the problem slipping little piece of plastic channel over the metal ends of the pads....problem solved. Might be worth a try before tearing the shafts out. I've since changed the calipers and rotors during an up grade to a dual master.

Can you illustrate what you used and where you put the plastic on the brake pads. I would like to try this before tearing into everything else.

[Dick G.]

Re: '65 Rear Wheel Squeak

If you take a pad and lay it down in front of you, you will see that steel protrudes about an 1/8 of an inch from the brake material on the leading and trailing edge. When you look down into the top of the caliper you should have about a1/16" or more play between the leading and trailing edges. There is just enough room to slide a thin piece of poly plastic between the edge of the pad and the body of the caliper. I used a plastic can lid for plastic and cut aout an inch off the rim of the lid. I trimmed it to so it was like an 'L' when you looked at it from the end. The pads are not perfect in size so on some you may only get one to fit per pad. They fit pretty good without any sort of clue or whatever. I don't have a pad handy. But if you need one I'll make a piece and send you the picture. I hope it works for you.

[Kim T.]

Re: '65 Rear Wheel Squeak

When I had a similar issue, I used some shim stock between the spindle and the rotor to fix the runout problem. Using a dial indicator, I was able get the runout down to zero. Not only did it solve the squeaks, it prevented the caliper from pumping air into the brake system. I have since found a N.O.S. spindle... but that project is for another day.

[Larry B.]

Re: '65 Rear Wheel Squeak

When I had a similar issue, I used some shim stock between the spindle and the rotor to fix the runout problem. Using a dial indicator, I was able get the runout down to zero. Not only did it solve the squeaks, it prevented the caliper from pumping air into the brake system. I have since found a N.O.S. spindle... but that project is for another day.

Kim, Do you have a photo or illustration of what you did so I can try it? Thanks Larry