Ignition switch the culprit

[David H.]

Recently my buddies '61 has developed a stalling issue.

About a week ago the car just shut off while pulling into my garage.
I was driving and thought I just stalled it. Then it did it again later.
By the next few days it was stalling, or actually just shutting off, on a regular basis. Didn't seem to matter when or where. Driving down the road at any speed, or just idling it was if you shut the key off. It starts back up immediately, runs for a minute or so and quits again.
We started with the coil and worked our way thru a short from the heat shields and then the ballast resistor. Nothing seemed to help. Then he noticed that when it quit the gauges all went to the far left as if they had lost power even tho the key was still in the on position. So we started suspecting the ignition switch. The next time it quit we tried wiggling the key and sure enough the gauges came back to normal position with the key on. So, I reached up behind the ignition and tried to make sure all the connections we tight and on all the way, then tried running it again. I really can't say that I felt like any of the connections were loose or that I changed anything, but ever since then the car has run perfectly without quitting again. The plan is to remove the ignition switch and look for a short or loose wire.
Has anyone had this issue and what else should we be looking for if anything?

[Richard T.]

Re: Ignition switch the culprit

I had a similar problem with my 62 and the switch was the problem. Assuming the harness connectors are good, nothing broken , no loose terminals, check the terminals on the back of the switch. After many years you may have one or more that have loosened up. I think they're riveted on. With care you can some times take these switches apart for repair but it's crimped together so be careful.
If you decide to replace it try to find an NOS Delco switch, they cost a little more and take some time to find but it's worth it. Good luck Rich

[Philip P.]

Re: Ignition switch the culprit

If it is wired like a 1960 the power from the battery goes to the ammeter first might want to make sure that connection is good.
Phil

[Thomas H.]

Re: Ignition switch the culprit

I was checking electrical connections out this weekend getting ready to fire the car up (first time since 1985). I was checking point to point connections with a DVM and noticed some intermittent readings when probing the ignition switch circuit. I noticed that the switch would sometimes get stuck between start and run.

I ended up taking the switch apart and found that the contacts were burnt between start and run which caused a pit to form between the two contact areas. The rotary part of the contact is a ring with rounded dimples that make contact as you rotate the switch The dimple area that rotated between start and run would fall into the pit between the two contact areas. This would cause an intermittent contact between start and run probably causing arcing which accounted for the burnt area.

Long story short, I'm replacing the switch before I try to start the car.

Tom

[William C.]

Re: Ignition switch the culprit

If the housing has not been damaged to this point, it can be disassembled and the contact parts (molded into the plastic) be replaced with parts from a donor. The housing was a unique piece, but the black molded part with the contacts and terminals is used on other gm cars. I think I did a "restorer" article on this about 10-15 years ago, might want to look it up.

[David H.]

Re: Ignition switch the culprit

Thanks for the replies.

I was able to go under the dash and remove and clean all connections. This switch is a nos replacement switch but there was some rust and corrossion on some of the connections. Cleaned everything and all seems to be good at this time. Only time will tell....

[William C.]

Re: Ignition switch the culprit

NOS GM, or Service replacement? Should have the last three numbers of the GM part number molded into the case as I remember.

[Thomas H.]

Re: Ignition switch the culprit

If the housing has not been damaged to this point, it can be disassembled and the contact parts (molded into the plastic) be replaced with parts from a donor. The housing was a unique piece, but the black molded part with the contacts and terminals is used on other gm cars. I think I did a "restorer" article on this about 10-15 years ago, might want to look it up.

Bill,

I was looking at the switch thinking this may be possible. I was careful taking it apart so there is no real damage to the housing. The replacement switch is due here tomorrow so I'll see what I can do.

I'm trying to get all of the loose ends tied up as Sunday we are going to try and fire the car up for the first time since 1985. I don't want my day messed up with electrical problems.

Tom

[Mike M.]

Re: Ignition switch the culprit

NOS GM, or Service replacement? Should have the last three numbers of the GM part number molded into the case as I remember.

the 61-2 ign switch housing is embossed 577 if its an original. mike