Cranking Signal Valve

[Joe M.]

Re: Cranking Signal Valve

Anyone have a specific brand or number of skinner valve. I see a variety of valves and configuration as in the Summit catalog and elsewhere?

[Jim L.]

Re: Cranking Signal Valve

NOS (brand name, not new old stock) 16080 works well.... if you don't mind the candy apple red color. New from Summit, these are about $75. Used on EPay, you can pick them up for around $40. Very reliable, you don't need to fear the used ones at all.

Jim

[Tom P.]

Re: Cranking Signal Valve

Per my pictures above, this is the part number for the Skinner valve that I had purchased for years, B2DA1026DC1AB7. It is now discontinued!!!
Skinner is now owned by Parker. ALLLLLLLLL former Skinner products now bare the Parker label.

Per Tim, in the Tech Support unit of (former) Skinner, this is now a DIRECT, functional replacement for the above Skinner part number, 20CC02PV4B2A. I just ordered 2 of these through my distributor here in Okla City. They should arrive in 3-4wks.
They sent me a drawing and spec sheet which shows that the replacement valve is virtually identical to the former Skinner valve, about $40.

[Ian G.]

Re: Cranking Signal Valve

Thought I'd add this info from Joe Calcagno recently on how to do a simple test on a CSV:

"You put a piece of vacuum tubing on the nipple that extends out of the side of the valve. (Not the threaded one) You suck on that hose very lightly; as lightly as you can. The valve should be open, that is, air should flow through the valve and into your lungs. You then suck more aggressively and the valve should close, stopping the flow of air.
In all these years, I have never seen one that didn't work if it passed [this] simple test."

I imagine that would be to test one on the doghouse. I tested an NOS one out of the box by sucking directly on the nipple...

[John D.]

Re: Cranking Signal Valve

Thought I'd add this info from Joe Calcagno recently on how to do a simple test on a CSV:

"You put a piece of vacuum tubing on the nipple that extends out of the side of the valve. (Not the threaded one) You suck on that hose very lightly; as lightly as you can. The valve should be open, that is, air should flow through the valve and into your lungs. You then suck more aggressively and the valve should close, stopping the flow of air.
In all these years, I have never seen one that didn't work if it passed [this] simple test."

I imagine that would be to test one on the doghouse. I tested an NOS one out of the box by sucking directly on the nipple...

Ian, When I see my friend Joe at Carlisle I will tell him a better method for using the suck test. Put the Treaded end in your mouth. Start inhaling like you were drawing on a cigarette. Then quickly put a finger on the round tube where the hose would normally go. Take your finger off the round tube and you should not be able to inhale any more air.
Do a search for an old "The Restorer" article by John Eyestone. He did the article when John Amgwert (sp) was the editor. "The Suck Test Sucks". Now remember I am quoting the title of the article. It had to be 20 years ago or so. Eyestone is gone now but not forgotten. JD

[Rick B.]

Re: Cranking Signal Valve

I have also used the same Parker 20CC02PV4B2A electric solenoid (as noted by Tom Parsons) and it works terrific. I made a small right angle aluminum bracket to secure the solenoid to the forward (passenger side) plenum stud on a '63 7017375 unit. Attach the ground wire to one of the 10-32 mounting screws and the positive lead to the purple wire terminal on the starter solenoid (12 volts only during cranking). I used several 90 degree vacuum nipples and some vacuum tubing for a compact installation. This is an easy conversion and could be returned to a NCRS approved CSV configuration in less than 30 minutes. I have included several photos for reference.



DSC06425.jpgDSC06421.jpgDSC06423.jpg

[John D.]

Re: Cranking Signal Valve

Personally I have been messing with FI's since 1961. Would still prefer a good CSV than all the solenoids. Have yea no faith??? LOL
Today there are brand new valves available that are really good. And remember to carry a spare. Or carry a longer piece of rubber hose and a pair of visegrips to take the valve out of the system in case it fails.
But on the other hand if you FI car does have a CSV and for some reason you have backfiring then the valve will be toast in short order. Then the solenoids come in handy.

What we need is a really neat substitute that actually looks like a CSV, attaches the same way and only has a one wire hookup. Need an invention that is hidden inside the CSV it self. Maybe one tiny wire coming out of a stock looking valve. Come up with this guys and it would be a major selling item.

I used to drive a fake fuel car to my restaurant for 10 plus years. Drove the saddle/saddle 63 almost every day unless there was salt on the road. In all those years I never replaced the CSV. Also never replaced a drive cable.