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master cylinder rust

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  • Michael B.
    Expired
    • March 31, 2008
    • 88

    master cylinder rust

    Can someone tell me what is the best product to keep m/c and steering box from rusting and keep it looking natural Thanks, Michael
  • Richard T.
    Very Frequent User
    • February 1, 1979
    • 858

    #2
    Re: master cylinder rust

    I use a clear matte , krylon makes a good one. Rich

    Comment

    • James S.
      Expired
      • June 22, 2008
      • 226

      #3
      Re: master cylinder rust

      Hi Michael,

      I've been called a NEWBY recently on this forum by an individual; that may be the case for restoring a Vette, but I have 40 plus years experience restoring other high caliber Muscle cars like a 69 RA IV GTO Judge, 70 RAIII Judge Convertible, 71 RA 455 GTO Judge, 70 LS6, 70 Superbird, 65 GTOs, in total over 35 Muscle cars I have completed from ground up to full body off restorations, so in that sense I am not a NEWBY to the restoration processes. Top it off being a certified welder, a former USMC pilot for over 30 years, I have a few years experience with mechanical items. And have been a Judge at the GTO Nationals, and I am a NADA Guide Advisory Board member who studies auctions, sales of all cars and submits data to NADAGuide on what I think a Muscle Car's value is in today's market. So much for being called a "NEWBY."

      Anyways, if you follow my tried and tested prodecures, you will enjoy a rust free environment on any metal for many years to come.

      1. Wear eye protection, a dust mask, and the blue rubber mechanics / surgical gloves for safety. First clean the part with simple green. If you use a parts washer, clean the kerosene, etc. off with simple green, or if the part isn't too greasy, just use simple green.

      2. Then use a sand blaster that has a two stage water trap so that the blasting air is as dry as you can achieve, or if you want to spend the bucks and go high tech, buy a compressor that has a drier that dries all air prior to the media reaching the gun. I have a two stage Ingersol Rand dual screw rotary compressor that has a drier (it is actually an air conditioner) that dries the air prior to sending the air into the hose that reaches the media gun.

      3. I use 80 grit aluminum oxide for the initial blasting; lasts much longer than glass bead or sand (sand gets obliviated on one pass). Aluminum oxide lasts for about ten blastings before having to add more or completely replace. Less dust than sand too. Ensuring the metal is totally rust and grease free is the critical process prior to prepping for paint or plating. And dry compressor air is necessary to blow off the water you will use in the following rust inhibiting process I use.

      4. If the part is cast iron, or steel I use the 80 grit aluminum oxide for the first and only removal of rust. If the part is aluminum, I use the 80 grit aluminum oxide first, and then use 40 grit glass bead for the finishing factory look. The glass bead puts a sheen on the aluminum that is close to factory without any low gloss clear spray paint like some restorers use to get that factory sheen back.

      5. Then I use PPG DX579 Metal Cleaner spray (reduce to two parts water to one part cleaner) to ensure even if any minute rust is left will be removed and the PPG really cleans the metal. Use stainless steel brushes or 3M Scotch Brite pads to scrub the metal to clean it thoroughly. Rinse thoroughly with water and use an air hose that has zero mositure to completely dry the part. The next process is what really works to inhibit further rust on any metal part. It is PPG DX520 Metal Conditioner (no reduction with water); it is a liquid phosphate coating that you saturate with and let the part sit for three minutes. Any longer than that and the liquid phospherous begins to dry and it will leave a powder like resin on the metal. As soon as the three minutes is up, rinse thoroughly with water and immediately blast with clean dry air until the part is dry. You will then see a rainbow hue on the metal if steel, if it is cast, you won't see the rainbow hue.

      6. Then part is ready to paint or you can let it sit for days, even months before any rust begins to form, that is if the environment is dry and not humid. If the air is humid the rust will begin to form in a few weeks.

      A tedious process that takes time, but works very well.

      Jim
      Last edited by James S.; July 16, 2011, 04:38 PM. Reason: Ed

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