60 Clutch System Question

[James S.]

This tranny shifts fine now after the third rebuild. At the initial rebuild I replaced all clutch components except the "clutch bell crank and the clutch bell crank rod." Installed a new clutch rod clevis pin, new clutch arm , pivot ball, etc. I replaced all hardware for the clutch bell crank assembly bolt kit as well. The old clevis pin had a groove in the clevis pin shaft from the constant wear of the bell crank from moving back and forth while depressing and releasing the clutch. [/font]

When driving and depressing the clutch all the way down, and shifting, there is a tinny rattling sounding noise that begins about one inch from bottoming out and when raising the clutch the shuttering noise is still there until the pedal comes up one inch from the bottoming out position. During assembly of the clutch rod, anti-rattle spring, etc., I noticed that the clevis pin is about 1/32nd of an inch smaller in diameter than the hole in the bell crank rod causing some play. Is this normal? I'm wondering if the 1/32nd inch play is causing the shutter noise. Also, the clutch bracket with ball stud flexes a tad bit when bottoming the clutch; is that normal?[/font]

I tried downloading a PDF file of the clutch system for review, but it isn't displyed for some reason.

Thanks for any assist.

Jim

[Tom B.]

Re: 60 Clutch System Question

Rattling seems odd with the clutch pedal depressed. There is tension on everything at that point except for the clutch disc. Did it fit the splines without any slop when you lapped it on?

Tom

[James S.]

Re: 60 Clutch System Question

Rattling seems odd with the clutch pedal depressed. There is tension on everything at that point except for the clutch disc. Did it fit the splines without any slop when you lapped it on?

Tom

Tom,

Thanks for replying.

This tranny has been a nightmare if you have been following the threads I have posted. I never did check the clutch disc for fit. What does "lapped it on" mean?

When I start the car when it is cold, the rattling tinnny noise is very loud even when not depressing the clutch. When the clutch is depressed, and bottomed out the noise gets worse. I know when the clutch is depressed the crank moves forward about .080 of an inch and I'm thinking maybe something is rubbing causing a high pitched tuinny rattling noise. I'm rechecking all compents to ensure they are correct for a 60 vette as this car had a 63 tranny installed, but I found a date coded T-10 (Nov 1959) for this car, had it rebuilt three times and it seems to be okay now. And I checked all components to ensure they were correct for the T-10.

A few weeks ago I removed the inspection cover, cranked the car up to see if the flywheel was rubbing and check to ensure the starter was disengaging fully and all checked out OK. I'm thinking about taking the generator belt off to see if the crank might be rubbing on the water pump pulley when the clutch is depressed.

I'm stumped. With the 50 plus transmissions I have replaced I've never run into this many problems.

Jim

[James S.]

Re: 60 Clutch System Question

Here's a post that describes the tinny noise problem. The thread ended without Ken responding to what the problem he had so I sent him an e-mail.


Ken Krejei (32327)


Clutch Noise - Diagnosis help needed!!

Here is the story: I removed the stock 283 engine along with the stock 3 speed transmission from my 1959 Corvette this winter to do some detailing and cleaning of the engine compartment. I then removed the tranny, clutch, and bell housing. Everything looked great. I then reinstalled everything back into the car this spring. Now I have a noise when the clutch pedal is pushed. It starts making noise as soon as the pedal is pushed and gets louder as it gets to the floor. It sounds like something is rubbing, a "Tinny" type sound. So.. I pulled the transmission back and removed the clutch pack and throw out bearing. The then got a NEW GM clutch pack assy. and throw out bearing and installed them. I bolted everything back together and tested. I still have the same noise!! Know what? Any suggestions? The first time I pulled apart the bell housing this winter, I noticed that the clip that holds the clutch fork to the pivot ball was broken. (one of the fingers was missing) So I removed the rivet that held the clip in place and installed a new clip onto the clutch fork. I'm not sure if this maybe part of my problem, but I thought I should mention it. Yes, I believe that the clutch fork and clip is correctly on the throw out bearing.

[Domenic T.]

Re: 60 Clutch System Question

James,

If you have the tin dust cover on your bellhousing take it off and see if the noise go's away.

Also .080 is a worn thrust bearing that is part of the rear main bearing, or the crank is worn at the thrust surface.

DOM

[Tom B.]

Re: 60 Clutch System Question

Lapping a clutch disc is done by applying lapping compound to the splines on the trans input shaft and inside the splines on the clutch disc. Then you sllid the disc back and forth on the input shaft. The compound smoothes off any machining burrs or rough spots in the hub or on the shaft so that the disc will be able to move back and forth during it's operation without any catches or tight spots. It's a good thing to do with a nnew disc.

Tom

[James S.]

Re: 60 Clutch System Question

James,

If you have the tin dust cover on your bellhousing take it off and see if the noise go's away.

Also .080 is a worn thrust bearing that is part of the rear main bearing, or the crank is worn at the thrust surface.

DOM

Thanks Dom,

I made a mistake, it is .008 according to the engine rebuilder.

It's time to raise the car again and check more items. I'm wondering if behind the flywheel something is amiss. Lots more trouble shooting for sure.

Thanks,

Jim

[James S.]

Re: 60 Clutch System Question

Lapping a clutch disc is done by applying lapping compound to the splines on the trans input shaft and inside the splines on the clutch disc. Then you sllid the disc back and forth on the input shaft. The compound smoothes off any machining burrs or rough spots in the hub or on the shaft so that the disc will be able to move back and forth during it's operation without any catches or tight spots. It's a good thing to do with a nnew disc.

Tom

Thanks Tom. If I don't find any rubbing on the flywheel, inpsection plate, etc., I will pull the tranny again and check the flywheel, pressure plate and cutch disc.

Jim

[John H.]

Re: 60 Clutch System Question

Thanks Dom,

I made a mistake, it is .008 according to the engine rebuilder.

It's time to raise the car again and check more items. I'm wondering if behind the flywheel something is amiss. Lots more trouble shooting for sure.

Thanks,

Jim

Jim -

If you used non-GM flywheel bolts (like ARP, etc.), they're just a little longer than the GM bolts, and the portion that protrudes through the forward face of the crank flange can interfere with the sheet metal inspection cover, especially when you depress the clutch pedal. Check that first - it's easy.

I found that out many years ago when I restored my first '57 - at engine first-fire, that interference sounded like a tin outhouse in a hailstorm; really got my attention.

[James S.]

Re: 60 Clutch System Question

Jim -

If you used non-GM flywheel bolts (like ARP, etc.), they're just a little longer than the GM bolts, and the portion that protrudes through the forward face of the crank flange can interfere with the sheet metal inspection cover, especially when you depress the clutch pedal. Check that first - it's easy.

I found that out many years ago when I restored my first '57 - at engine first-fire, that interference sounded like a tin outhouse in a hailstorm; really got my attention.

John,

Thanks for the tip! Prior to reading your mail I pulled the lower inspection cover and no rubbing. I then looked at the top cover and low and behold I could see where the cover was rubbing on the crank end! The bolt ends look almost like rivets protruding. The crank is original, so I will call the engine rebuilder and ask if he replaced with new ARP bolts.

I lost many a night's sleep over this! But, I knew I had to inspect and re-inspect!

Thanks for the help John!

Jim