C2 Body Mount #3 and #4 - rotted out

[Mark P.]

This weekend I am working to pull the body on my 65 Coupe due to frame repairs I need to make on the kick-up section. I will be having the rear section from the rails on back replaced using a donor frame.

Here are photos of the #3 and #4 body mounts.

This means nothing was holding the rear half of the car down to the chassis, right ?

What is involved with repairing the #3 mount on the body ? Is this part of the birdcage ? Is it a big deal ?

What are other areas I should inspect closely for rust when I separate the body from the chassis ?

[Jim R.]

Re: C2 Body Mount #3 and #4 - rotted out

Hi Mark in the past threads on frames some of the replies were to just get a new frame, I think they sell for just under 5.000 and repairs can add up real fast once you get going, and the frame you would think will still have issues from the back side as far as rust in other areas. anyway good luck with the frame issues.

[Mark P.]

Re: C2 Body Mount #3 and #4 - rotted out

Jim - I was looking at a new frame but since I found a very nice California only frame that was damaged just at the front cross member then I'll use that to repair mine. I have the rear 3/4 of that frame to use to make one good frame with the one I have. I'll probably have $1,500 into this frame when I am done with it and that works better for me thab the $6,000 I would have to get one shipped to me.

I am comfortable the donar frame is solid. I went up and down it with a body shop pick hammer and had it inspected by a body and frame guy.


Mark

[Jim R.]

Re: C2 Body Mount #3 and #4 - rotted out

I wonder where the best spot would be to put the two together, would you stagger the two from side to side ,maybe one side of the frame at the front of the door and the other frame weld at the rear of the opposite door , do they slide another square section that fits inside your frame to reinforce those areas.

[Mark P.]

Re: C2 Body Mount #3 and #4 - rotted out

Jim - we will try to do it at factory welds but if we have to piece it together in the frame rails then they will use a inner sleeve I believe like the repair pieces come with. I asked if they should be staggered and a couple guys told me they didn't have to. One guy said he likes to make his splices with cuts at a 45 degree angle.

They sell a 48" frame repair piece which I believe goes from the rear end cap frame rail then forward 48".

Once the body is off then I'll be able to assess with the body and frame guy who will make the repairs. He has a jig made from a large plate of steel with locators for a C2 frame.

Mark

[Jim R.]

Re: C2 Body Mount #3 and #4 - rotted out

Mark, sounds like your in good hands.

[Peter L.]

Re: C2 Body Mount #3 and #4 - rotted out

Mark,
I am the middle of a 63 convertible resto-mod, and have the same issue you do with the birdcage. Hopefully you solved the issue and can help me. The u shaped piece under the door sill, that rests on the frame is totally rusted out on my car, just like in the photos you supplied. I was told that the rusted piece is actually spot welded to the birdcage, which runs along directly under the door sill, above the u shaped piece the rests over the frame. However, I can find no evedince of anything other then the rusted piece. What did you do to replace that piece?

[Harry S.]

Re: C2 Body Mount #3 and #4 - rotted out

Had the same problem. Replaced the body mount. Also cut out the section of the birdcage and replaced it. Problem solved.

[Dick W.]

Re: C2 Body Mount #3 and #4 - rotted out

Have repaired several Corvette frames and made the cut parallel and at right angles. Always either purchased or made tight fitting sleeves to tie the pieces. Plug welded the inserts about six inches fore and aft of the cut. Plug welding is when you cut a hole, in this case about one inch, in the parent metal and then weld the parent to the sleeve. The holes were cut in the sides. I always left about 3/16's to 1/4" inch gap between the old and new frame sections. I then welded each section to the sleeve and then made one last filler pass tying every thing together.

That process is very similar to what I always did when I extended or shortened a class 8 truck frame, just on a smaller scale.

[Mark P.]

Re: C2 Body Mount #3 and #4 - rotted out

I am having the lower B pillar (aka lock pillar) replaced along with the rocker channels.

Are you comfortable your frame is OK ? Have you pulled the body ?

I ended up getting a replacement frame from the rails forward from Vette Products of Michigan and had it welded to a nice and straight rear original section.

My restorer had some issues with the Vette Products frame being 1 3/4" out of position at the rear rails but was able to break some welds and fix that in a day. Another 30 hours was spent getting evrything welded together. I heard someone else had an issue with a new frame from this source not being straight. I am grateful I got this frame section or I would be in a real lurch.

[Peter L.]

Re: C2 Body Mount #3 and #4 - rotted out

The restorer I am using for the body repairs to my 63 convertible is finally (my delay, not his) at the point of replacing the rocker channels. It looks like the door lock piller on the driver side is rusted at the bottom to the point of having to either replace or repair it. Does anyone have advise on how to do these repairs? Does the fiberglass need to be removed? Can it be done withour completely disassembling the fiberglass from the biordcage?
Is anyone available for a phone discussion on this?
Thanks,

[Mark P.]

Re: C2 Body Mount #3 and #4 - rotted out

Rocker1.jpgRocker2.jpg Peter -here are photos of the repair made by my restorer to my 65. They sell a lock pillar repair part. The photo shows the fiberglass that was removed from the fender well. The other photo shows the fiberglass repair. The restorer also removed some of the upholstery on the lock pillar and I think there is an access plate they used to make the upper welds. Good Luck, Mark

[Peter L.]

Re: C2 Body Mount #3 and #4 - rotted out

Mark - Thanks very much fopr the photos and description. The body on my car is completely off and completely stripped of all hardware, seats, doors, etc. The info here and the photos will help a lot. Did you also have to repair or replace the rocker channel? That is, the steel channel directly below the door sill. Mine is completely rusted out and also must be replaced. Both the lock piler and rocker channel are available from a restoration parts house in MI. If you are interested, I can get you their name.
THnaks again, Pete