1967 TI Help

[Jeremy H.]

I have seen the flow chart and have been on TI Specialties website, but I have a few questions that I can't seem to find the answer to.

I have close to 4 volts at positive on coil with key on, should that be the same when cranking the engine?

I have spark to #1 according to timing light, does that rule out the distributor, amp and coil as a reason why it is not starting?



Thanks

Jeremy Hedges
#31711

[Ken A.]

Re: 1967 TI Help

Short answer to your 3 questions is no. Are all the components in your system original? Did you ohm the PU coil?

[Jeremy H.]

Re: 1967 TI Help

All is new or rebuilt

[Ken A.]

Re: 1967 TI Help

Please list parts sources

[Jeremy H.]

Re: 1967 TI Help

Distributor and amp from Fiedler. I have almost 4 volts at positive on coil with key on, and it is the same when it is cranking. I think I should have closer to 12 volts when cranking at positive on coil. I have double and triple checked grounds on TI amp box and where it grounds to radiator support. Any Ideas? Am I correct about 12 volts to coil when cranking?

Thanks

Jeremy Hedges
#31711

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 TI Help

Jeremy,

I just checked Dave's 66-71 Wiring Diagram . The "R" terminal of the solenoid is not a direct connection to the coil as it is in a non-TI system. Therefore I don't think you'll get 12v when cranking at the coil. There is a resistor in the wiring at all times to the coil.(the 12G white wire). When cranking it is likely higher but not sure the value.

However, the 18G wire from the solenoid "R" terminal goes directly to the dist pickup coil(pink), which is also connected to the TI Amplifier. You should have 12v there when cranking. Is 12v there?

Did you check for 500-700 ohms at the pickup coil connector(unplugged)? If it's there, and all wiring checks out, the next suspect is the Amp according to Dave's flowchart.

Rich

[Ken A.]

Re: 1967 TI Help

You are incorrect re:12V. I would call Dave, if he rebuilt the system. Has it worked at all since repairs?

[Dick W.]

Re: 1967 TI Help

Since it is obvious that the distributor has been out, are you sure that it is correctly installed?

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 TI Help

You are incorrect re:12V. I would call Dave, if he rebuilt the system. Has it worked at all since repairs?

Ken, what part about my analysis is incorrect? Should he get 12v at the coil?

There's a resistor in the white wire going to the + side of the coil from the amp, so how could it get full battery voltage there when cranking? I see that the "R" terminal goes to the amp, not the coil, so it would appear the amp supplies a higher voltage at crank, but I don't see how full battery would get there.

I've only experienced one TI troubleshooting process on a L71 lately, so I'm still learning about these too.

Rich

[Ken A.]

Re: 1967 TI Help

You misunderstood, I was referring to JH's post re: 12V at the coil. It should be 2.5-4.5 volts on the plus terminal with the key in on position. If it shows 11-12 volts, then that indicates an open in the primary circuit, ie, open ground wire from coil neg terminal. I suspect he has a bad coil, but there is not enough info given to state as an absolute.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 TI Help

You misunderstood, I was referring to JH's post re: 12V at the coil. It should be 2.5-4.5 volts on the plus terminal with the key in on position. If it shows 11-12 volts, then that indicates an open in the primary circuit, ie, open ground wire from coil neg terminal. I suspect he has a bad coil, but there is not enough info given to state as an absolute.

Ok I understand now, I was wondering the same actually. Jeremy hasn't replied back as to Dick's question about distributor clocking. He may just be off a tooth or two.

Jeremy, ........got fuel? Sorry but have to ask. You didn't say if you do or not.

Rich