C2 Trailing Arm Removal

[Mark P.]

Any advice on how to remove the pivot bolt ? I got the castle nut off but can't get the bolt to come out.

I have been using a drift punch but the punch angle makes it tough to get a solid hit.

I would rather not use a torch because it is so close to the body.

Would an air chisel between the shims work ? I think I can control that better than a sawsall.

Also, I stripped one of the 5/8 bolts that attach the outer half shaft flange to the spindle flange. Any advice on removing that ? I was thinking about welding a nut onto the bolt head once I got the arm off. Any easier way ?

[Patrick H.]

Re: C2 Trailing Arm Removal

Mark,

Sawzall with the best blades you can find, else a torch. A skilled torch operator can do it. If you have later (open ended) shims you can pull them out but if they are still the original type with a hole and not a slot for the pivot bolt then it's much more difficult.

I also found it easier if you support the trailing arm on the back end. I just used a jack stand under the spindle support or the brake disc and it helps. That removes some of the strain on the bolt.

Good luck.

[Don H.]

Re: C2 Trailing Arm Removal

I just finished this job on my 65. I did not have the issues you have described.
I was told by my guru that assisted me to use floor jack under my knock off adaptors to raise up the T/A assembly and find the sweet spot where the bolts will come out of the assembly after the nuts are removed. If you do not take the weight off the assembly, it is near impossible to get the bolts to come out. It worked for me.
good luck,

[David S.]

Re: C2 Trailing Arm Removal

I recommend cutting the bolts on either side of the shims (within the frame) using a saws-all. Then use an air chisel to get the rest of the bolts out.

Best,
Dave

[Edward J.]

Re: C2 Trailing Arm Removal

Any advice on how to remove the pivot bolt ? I got the castle nut off but can't get the bolt to come out.

I have been using a drift punch but the punch angle makes it tough to get a solid hit.

I would rather not use a torch because it is so close to the body.

Would an air chisel between the shims work ? I think I can control that better than a sawsall.

Also, I stripped one of the 5/8 bolts that attach the outer half shaft flange to the spindle flange. Any advice on removing that ? I was thinking about welding a nut onto the bolt head once I got the arm off. Any easier way ?

Mark, I had the same problem with my 63 when taking apart the chassis, once the nut was off, if you can remove the shims and use a saws-all as Patrick says, it was the only way . using a torch theres always the possiabilty that the frame can be damaged or the trailing arm.

[Alan D.]

Re: C2 Trailing Arm Removal

Mark, before you destroy that area record all data, ie number of shims on each side (variable thickness of shims) AND the width of original (existing) bearing at end of trailing arm, torch may destroy that value.

These measurements can be used when putting things back together to at least get in the ball park for alinement or with a little work back to same location.

[Thomas C.]

Re: C2 Trailing Arm Removal

I used a long 3/8" ratchet extension with the female end perched on the end of the pivot bolt. I few good hits and they went.

[Michael F.]

Re: C2 Trailing Arm Removal

I did mine on a lift. Just propped the TA on my shoulder and I re-adjusted till the bolt slid out.

[Mark P.]

Re: C2 Trailing Arm Removal

I finally got them out. very satisfying. The driver's side was real hard. I used a sawsall to cut the bolt and an air chisel to loosed the bolt head from the trailing arm even through the castle nut came off without too much trouble. The passenger side was easy. Once I removed the castle nut I tapped it out the pivot bolt with very little problem. Both sides had the original non-slotted shims.

On the driver's side the rust has ate through the floor of the trailing arm pocket. The passenger side is fine. See photos.

Should I weld a piece of metal in to fix that ?

Thanks for all the advice. I did keep the shims in separate marked baggies so I'll use this as a base then take it to an alignment shop.

Do the trailing arms look pretty typical ? This car was in Texas and Wyoming until the 80's then it has been in California since.

[Gene M.]

Re: C2 Trailing Arm Removal

Mark,
Your first photo shows a lot of cancer in the kick up area. You need to verify the front side of the kick up for strength. The otherside of the car looks ok. But I would be concern with the amount of "missing" metal as shown in the first photo.

Cutting, welding and grinding in this area with the body in place is difficult at best.

[Joe R.]

Re: C2 Trailing Arm Removal

Sorry, but that frame and trailing arm is NOT typical of a Corvette from Wyoming or Texas. I think you will find it came to Texas via Ohio, Michigan, Wisconsin, Iowa etc etc. My advice would be to check deeper in the frame pocket for more rust.

JR