on car brake lathe

[Rich W.]

Re: on car brake lathe

Clem the Pro cut does what the video does..you can do that yourself..its cheaper..kinda like people using pieces of aluminum can under the rotor..I have had no combacks from machining rotors due to vibrations during braking..and I have been using it since this machine came out years ago..I think the biggest thing again..this machine trues the rotor to the hub..you can machine a rotor off the car and put it on..it may be under the run out spec..but in a short period of time it will be warped again since it is not parallel to the hub..

[Clem Z.]

Re: on car brake lathe

Clem the Pro cut does what the video does..you can do that yourself..its cheaper..kinda like people using pieces of aluminum can under the rotor..I have had no combacks from machining rotors due to vibrations during braking..and I have been using it since this machine came out years ago..I think the biggest thing again..this machine trues the rotor to the hub..you can machine a rotor off the car and put it on..it may be under the run out spec..but in a short period of time it will be warped again since it is not parallel to the hub..

i do know that pad build up can cause pedal pulsation as i have just run a orbital sander over disk and it stopped. light brakers like my mrs have this problem as you need to brake hard to keep the pad build up cleaned off.

[Rich W.]

Re: on car brake lathe

Definitely Clem..that stuff can be ruffed up and gone..easy to do and works for a good while..some cars need a teen age driver behind the wheel!

[William F.]

Re: on car brake lathe

Clem,
I appreciate your knowledge but surely you appreciate that GM trued the rotor/rotor as a unit after riviting them together and if you just replace the rotor, you can get excessive runout and the "dread air pumping"? Nothing to do with buildup of pad material on rotor-2 different problems.

[Clem Z.]

Re: on car brake lathe

Clem,
I appreciate your knowledge but surely you appreciate that GM trued the rotor/rotor as a unit after riviting them together and if you just replace the rotor, you can get excessive runout and the "dread air pumping"? Nothing to do with buildup of pad material on rotor-2 different problems.

i believe you are now talking about the rear spindle/disk combo and i would guess the tapered shim would work there if you had to replace either of those parts.

[William F.]

Re: on car brake lathe

I'm talking about the front as well as rear if someone just slaps a new rotor on-may have to machine rotor with hub as a unit to get acceptable runout

[Rich W.]

Re: on car brake lathe

I would check the runout before I would machine rotors..what I have found is it only needs done once..then if it gets some rust or pad build up a little sand paper will take care of it..most of these cars don't get driven hard enough to warrant another cut..plus there really isn't that much on there to cut..so I don't call it machining..I just kiss the rotor..and then touch it with sand paper for a non directional finish..

[Michael W.]

Re: on car brake lathe

I'm talking about the front as well as rear if someone just slaps a new rotor on-may have to machine rotor with hub as a unit to get acceptable runout

Correct- this is something unique to C2/C3 Corvettes.

[Clem Z.]

Re: on car brake lathe

I'm talking about the front as well as rear if someone just slaps a new rotor on-may have to machine rotor with hub as a unit to get acceptable runout

the front can be done on a regular brake late by leaving the rotor attached to hub because other GM cars and trucks have the hub and rotor as one piece of cast iron. they set up off of the bearing races in the hub