I want to remove my '61 hood to paint the underside. What is the best way to R&R the hood? The hinge to hood looks like the bottom bolt is hard to get to and may be easy to damage the paint. The hinge to radiator support looks like it may be easier and less likely to scratch the paint. What is the best way to remove and to re-align? Cheers, Larry
-
-
Re: '61 Hood Removal & Replacement
Larry,
In my opinion it is best to remove the bolts from the hinge to the hood.
This accounts for only front to back adjustment unless you use some shims to raise the hood up.
Bruce B -
Re: '61 Hood Removal & Replacement
i agree w bruce
it was much easier to
install the hinges to the radiator support 1st
and then the hood to the hinges
a two man job
barely tighten all bolts until the hood is aligned
iowa
Comment
-
Re: '61 Hood Removal & Replacement
One caveat to unbolting the hood from the hinges: If the retainer holding the screw plates inside the hood is broken, it can be a real fun time getting the bolts back in after the screw plate moves off someplace weird.
If that is the case, you have to remove the hinges anyway, as you will never get the hinges to bolt up to the hood unless you have the hood laying flat on sawhorses, and fish the retainer plates around from underneath until you can get then lined up and some bolts in place and install the hinges to the hood off the car
Scribe a line around the hinge to rad support, or use tape to mark the hinge location to the rad support.
Ditto with the hinge to hood interface, thatw ay, reinstall will be real simple, no matter where you unbolt them.
DougComment
-
Re: '61 Hood Removal & Replacement
Thanks for your time Doug (and any one else); but, can any one describe a way to do this SINGLEHANDED? I'm thinking the engine crane I've gotten (to pull the never before molested original '61) and some ratcheting straps with flat "J" hooks.
Lauchlan #5545Comment
-
Re: '61 Hood Removal & Replacement
Well....
I did it by myself, once or twice, when i was a lot younger and the car was in primer and I didn't care if i scratched the primer.
I wouldn't attempt it single handed with good paint. And now, i always tape the paint on the fenders next to the hood, and the hood edge, if the hood must come off.
I usually borrow a neighbor for a few minutes to hold one side of the hood if I need help.
DougComment
-
Re: '61 Hood Removal & Replacement
Thank you for the quick reply and the tape idea-hadn't thought of that. My paint is original-factory but showing its age. Must pull engine to replace timing chain or risk destroying the orig. 270HP. Working alone is gonna have to hack it as friends are in real short supply in Anchorage in fishing season. Should I pull the 4spd tranny with the engine?Comment
-
Re: '61 Hood Removal & Replacement
1. I believe you can replace the timing chain with the engine in the car.
When you remove the water pump, you will have to support the engine from underneath. But that's easy. Search for John Hinckley's saddle.
2. I believe the manual (ST-12) says to pull the engine and transmission as a unit. I do know guys have disconnected the transmission; pulled it back; and, then removed just the engine. I don't know if that's easier. I think not. I don't believe you've gained much, if anything, by removing the transmission. Just seems like extra work.Comment
-
Re: '61 Hood Removal & Replacement
Hi all -
Regarding the hood, I've done it by myself two or three times.
Open the hood, spread blankets all around the opening so they overlap the outside and protect the paint, tape the perimeter of the hinge flanges where they meet the hood, disconnect the prop at the hood, slightly loosen the bolts at the flanges, let the hood down as far as you can and still get your arm under, finish loosening the bolts by hand, and last, standing at the front of the car, lift the hood off.
I don't think you'll have a problem.
CalComment
-
Re: '61 Hood Removal & Replacement
Thanks Doug, Christopher and Cal. Much appreciated. Fact is, the timing chain was so screwing up my engine tuning that I got real hinkey about a valve kissing a piston. I decided to pull the engine as a rebuild is about due anyway. What with the cost of things these days, it's a crate 350 for the old girl while I rebuild. Then the 350 goes into one of my trucks. Thanks again.Comment
-
Re: '61 Hood Removal & Replacement
IMO it's very risky to remove the hood from "above" if you are alone.
I would recommend this way if you're alone. I do it this way.......
Put a 1/4" bolt in the hood support prop rod to keep it from dropping.
Remove the front grille. Put some vinyl electrical tape loosely around the front corners of the hood and surround. You cab also put thin cardboard or clean rags in the gaps of the hood.
Remove the 2 hood support bolts from the hood, lower the hood but leave it unlatched at the rear.
From the front grille area, reach up & under to remove the 4 hinge bolts at the hood. The hood will be still be flat and at rest.
Stand up, then grasp the outer front corners of the hood and lift it up, reach further back along the sides to raise it off.
Reassembly is the reverse, and you reduce the risk of damage. It will be much easier to realign the gaps when the hood is flat as well.
RichComment
-
Re: '61 Hood Removal & Replacement
That's great information, thank you, Richard. Further, I'm thinking of taping down some of that rubbery mesh stuff used for non-skid shelving in boats, motor homes, etc. to protect my paint/edges/fenders. It sure holds blankets to my fenders. Beware of leaving duct tape on paint, some brands will pull paint off if left on for days, months.Comment
-
Re: '61 Hood Removal & Replacement
Hey Doug,
What do you think of the idea of using studs (headless bolts) as surrogates for the hood-to-hinge bolts?Comment
Comment