C1 Body mount shims

[Donald H.]

I know this subject has been addressed a number of time and, and yes I've searched the forum and old Restorer articles but not been able to completely address my questions.

This related to my 1960 and re-mounting the body to the frame.

When I removed the body, each of the 10 primary body mount locations (not including the 11th at the radiator support), had one metal shim and three of the composition shims. I've relatively sure these where replacements from someone else in the past as the composition shims are glued together.

Here are my questions:

1. Per the AIM (section 1 - 1.00) it shows one metal shim and one composition shim, and the metal shim has a note "AS REQ,D.". So unless the AIM is incorrect, the metal shims were used in multiples to correct alignment. Is this Correct?

2. I got a replacement body mount kit from Paragon and it came with 10 metal shims and 20 composition shims. So this leads me to believe that at least for their kit, the composition shims are to be used in multiples for corrections/alignments. Or is this Correct?

3. Should I start out with one of each (metal and composition) at each location then adjust as necessary. If more than one is needed at any locations, do I use multiple metal or composition shims?

Thanks,
Don

[Donald H.]

Re: C1 Body mount shims

Hopefully someone who has removed the body from a C1 will tell me what you found when you removed the body

[John H.]

Re: C1 Body mount shims

Here's a chart that was made when a friend's '61 body was pulled off the frame for the first time.

[Rod K.]

Re: C1 Body mount shims

My '57 used a 1/4" thick pad of conveyor belt material, not the fiber shims apparently used later, plus metal shims as required at each of the eight mid-body locations. I'd guess, based on that, you'd want to use multiple steel shims as required with one fiber piece against the fiberglass. Hopefully, somoeone with first hand knowledge of the later C1s will respond.

[Adam S.]

Re: C1 Body mount shims

1st the reason they may appeared glued together is because of harsh enviroment these shims were exposed to(wet dry wet dry, mine were stuck together too).

(2&3) Yes, starting with that shim layout is a good starting point as the AIMS manual states...but, as I seen it on 57 vettes it appears the metal shims are used for finer adjustments (thinner) & are more weather proof than the composit shims. Take for example what I found on my 57 were the two rear outer trunk shims were solid composit shims top & bottom each with one or two metal shims & not with the rubber donut mounts as shown in AIMS.............I think shim usage at St. Louis assy. plant was any way possiable to get that car moving down the line................there is a lot of flexiablity in there make up to get that gap closed / opened...........there also sometimes were marked(crayon or pencile) on body undersides a number as to how manny shims were used at that attachment point...........hope this info. helps....................

[Donald H.]

Re: C1 Body mount shims

Here's a chart that was made when a friend's '61 body was pulled off the frame for the first time.

Thanks John,

This tells me what I needed. The rubber/composition was for isolation between the body and frame, and the metal was for adjustment

[Al R.]

Re: C1 Body mount shims

Donald, when i restored my 60 FI car back in the early 90s, it used the composite against the body and the metal shims against the chassis, best as I can remember they were taped together with a masking tape ( I don't remember the width of the tape,but bits & pcs of it were still present. I'm sure it is discussed in one of the many publications. I made a list of how many were used at each location for re-assembly of the body, but due to chassis/frame settling thru the years, I had to re-adjust the #s to get the body re-aligned to spec's. Hope this helps.