Locks and Keys

[Mike R.]

The buzzer post on my ignition lock cylinder does not retract when the key is removed. The manual says that the cylinder is not disassemble-able. I assume that I must buy another cylinder. Can I get one to match my door locks? On a related topic, the storage compartment and spare tire lock are supposed to be keyed alike but I have never seen a lock set that has both. I have the heavy metal case for the spare tire lock but no lock inside. Is there anyone who can put the lock inside and have it keyed alike to my storage compartment lock (for which I have no key).

Thanks


Mike

[Dan M.]

Re: Locks and Keys

Contact Pete Lindhal, an NCRS member and whose name you can find in the Members listing

[Jack H.]

Re: Locks and Keys

On the ignition lock cylinder's key minder tab not fully retracting upon removal of the key, that 'may' not be the fault of the lock cylinder. Cleaning out any dirt/grease that could be 'hanging' the tab doesn't hurt. But, I've seen cases where it's the keyminder switch that's the problem...

Factory original key minder switches were constructed using clear plastic for the case. The bottom end of the case had a 'window' that allowed the tab on the ignition lock cylinder to protrude through and touch/push the switch contact leaf to make/break the circuit.

It's the native spring force of the switch contact leaf that's supposed to push the lock cylinder's actuating tab back up into the lock cylinder and open the keyminder warning circuit. The clear plastic housing material of the switch has a propensity to out-gas, dry up and crack.

If the housing of the switch changes physical dimensions due to cracked/missing plastic housing material, there might not be sufficient contact leaf force left to push the lock cylinder's actuating tab back and open the electrical circuit...

[Mike R.]

Re: Locks and Keys

Thanks Jack, I will try cleaning the cylinder some more. Should it be lubricated and with what?

On the ignition lock cylinder's key minder tab not fully retracting upon removal of the key, that 'may' not be the fault of the lock cylinder. Cleaning out any dirt/grease that could be 'hanging' the tab doesn't hurt. But, I've seen cases where it's the keyminder switch that's the problem...

Factory original key minder switches were constructed using clear plastic for the case. The bottom end of the case had a 'window' that allowed the tab on the ignition lock cylinder to protrude through and touch/push the switch contact leaf to make/break the circuit.

It's the native spring force of the switch contact leaf that's supposed to push the lock cylinder's actuating tab back up into the lock cylinder and open the keyminder warning circuit. The clear plastic housing material of the switch has a propensity to out-gas, dry up and crack.

If the housing of the switch changes physical dimensions due to cracked/missing plastic housing material, there might not be sufficient contact leaf force left to push the lock cylinder's actuating tab back and open the electrical circuit...

[Terry M.]

Re: Locks and Keys

Thanks Jack, I will try cleaning the cylinder some more. Should it be lubricated and with what?

Locks should be lubricated ONLY with powdered graphite, but generally a liquid carrier of some sort is used. A commonly available product is called "Lock Ease." I find it in Ace and True Value hardware stores, but I am sure it is widely distributed. I use a product made by BEST Lock Company, but unless you have one of their outlets near you, you are unlikely to be able to get it. We use it extensively at work, but we spend millions of dollars with BEST every year.

[Gary B.]

Re: Locks and Keys

... On a related topic, the storage compartment and spare tire lock are supposed to be keyed alike but I have never seen a lock set that has both. I have the heavy metal case for the spare tire lock but no lock inside. Is there anyone who can put the lock inside and have it keyed alike to my storage compartment lock (for which I have no key).

Thanks


Mike

Mike,

It's not quite clear what you are talking about with regard to the spare tire lock. Are you saying that you have the outer lock case for your spare tire lock, but you don't have the lock core/cylinder?

Gary

[Mike R.]

Re: Locks and Keys

I soaked the cylinder in acetone and blew it out and the key warning buzzer now operates correctly. I have contacted Pete Lyndhal who will the other issues. Thanks to everybody for the advice.

Mike




quote=Jack Humphrey (17100);552556]On the ignition lock cylinder's key minder tab not fully retracting upon removal of the key, that 'may' not be the fault of the lock cylinder. Cleaning out any dirt/grease that could be 'hanging' the tab doesn't hurt. But, I've seen cases where it's the keyminder switch that's the problem...

Factory original key minder switches were constructed using clear plastic for the case. The bottom end of the case had a 'window' that allowed the tab on the ignition lock cylinder to protrude through and touch/push the switch contact leaf to make/break the circuit.

It's the native spring force of the switch contact leaf that's supposed to push the lock cylinder's actuating tab back up into the lock cylinder and open the keyminder warning circuit. The clear plastic housing material of the switch has a propensity to out-gas, dry up and crack.

If the housing of the switch changes physical dimensions due to cracked/missing plastic housing material, there might not be sufficient contact leaf force left to push the lock cylinder's actuating tab back and open the electrical circuit...[/quote]