Knock off's stuck

[Craig S.]

I'm a new owner of a 65 coupe,327/365h.p. trying to get the wheels off to put radials on. I've read some threads about this. I've removed the safety pin that is supposed to prevent lossening. I've put lots of lube on it where I can see threads. I've hit it using some pretty big sledges(8lb.) with wood in between. I'm afraid of breaking the spinner. Any suggestions??

[Don H.]

Re: Knock off's stuck

welcome fellow L76 owner.
are you sure you are striking the right direction, and car is down on ground as you strike?
left side spins off counter-clockwise, and right side spins off clockwise.

[Craig S.]

Re: Knock off's stuck

The car is on the ground and i'm striking the spinners in the direction that says 'off'.

[Stephen P.]

Re: Knock off's stuck

The wood is probably softening the impact of the blow. Blows with a heavy lead hammer directly on the spinner should eventually break it free. Your not likely to break the spinner with the lead hammer. I went through the same scenario with my 65 and thought it would never break loose, but it eventually did. I'd also forget the KO wrenches. Based on my experience, they aren't nearly as effective as the lead hammer.

[Wayne P.]

Re: Knock off's stuck

Craig I had a hard time at first as well. Make sure the wheel is on the ground till loose check the direction of arrow pointing to hit in the direction required. I ended up buying the cobra thumper lead hammer . works great.
Just be careful not to hit the wheel well. good luck I am sure others will give good advice.

[Russ S.]

Re: Knock off's stuck

A friend of mine with a 63 called me because he (and another friend of his) couldn't get his KOs off. I went over with a big big dead blow hammer. I beat and beat with all my might on each and every one of his wheels before they finally came loose. I think it is because we have heard so much about these wheels coming loose and therefore to tighten them and re-tighten them with such gusto.

[Craig S.]

Re: Knock off's stuck

Thank's for the advice. It's nice to know I'm not the only one with these issues. I'll continue to hit away until they break loose. As a friend of mine said to me "welcome to the world of vintage auto's".

[Tom H.]

Re: Knock off's stuck

Do an online search and get yourself a mother thumper lead hammer.

[Craig S.]

Re: Knock off's stuck

Thanks for the help. I got them off with a lot of pounding. Once I saw movement it was enough motivation to keep swinging. I only hit the fender once. Looks like a minor stone chip from the road. I'll get over it. I'm going to drive this car so I better get used to stone chips. For the record it took 50 to 60 swings with different size hammers and sledges to get them loose.

[John H.]

Re: Knock off's stuck

Thanks for the help. I got them off with a lot of pounding. Once I saw movement it was enough motivation to keep swinging. I only hit the fender once. Looks like a minor stone chip from the road. I'll get over it. I'm going to drive this car so I better get used to stone chips. For the record it took 50 to 60 swings with different size hammers and sledges to get them loose.

Craig -

When you put them back on, clean the threads first, then use a light film of anti-seize on the threads and on the conical interface between the wheel and the adapter; reduced thread friction will allow the clamping force between the spinner and wheel to build faster with less effort (fewer hits to fully tight). Final tighten (and loosen) with the tire on the ground.

[Craig S.]

Re: Knock off's stuck

Thanks John, I'll be going over all that before I re-install them. I just saw a '****** thumper' 6lb. hammer on-line. Looks pretty handy. I think proper maintenance of these wheels on a regular basis will help also. I bought the car in January and have been going over it since. I just finished putting a signal switch and harness in before this.

[Russ S.]

Re: Knock off's stuck

Craig -

When you put them back on, clean the threads first, then use a light film of anti-seize on the threads and on the conical interface between the wheel and the adapter; reduced thread friction will allow the clamping force between the spinner and wheel to build faster with less effort (fewer hits to fully tight). Final tighten (and loosen) with the tire on the ground.

John, With these wheels being so prone to coming loose,isn't the lubricant going to make them come loose (by themselves) even more likely? I also have a set of these so I am am very interested in this whole scenerio.

[John H.]

Re: Knock off's stuck

John, With these wheels being so prone to coming loose,isn't the lubricant going to make them come loose (by themselves) even more likely? I also have a set of these so I am am very interested in this whole scenerio.

Russ -

No. "Torque" doesn't keep them on, "clamping force" does. Clamping force in the joint is developed via application of torque, but the dirtier the threads are, the more torque is wasted in overcoming thread friction, and a torque application won't necessarily reflect that the wheel is actually "tight" or not. There is no relative motion between the spinner and the wheel unless the drive pins are worn, the drive pin holes in the wheel are "egged", or the wheel is mis-indexed on the adapter.

If the drive pins and their mating holes in the wheel are in good condition, the wheels are properly indexed/installed on the adapters, the threads and conical mating surfaces are in good shape, and a proper 5# or 6# REAL lead hammer is used to wail on the spinners, they aren't going anywhere. If those criteria aren't met, you could have a problem.

Don't EVER let anyone else (like a tire shop) install your wheels on the car - they don't have a clue how to do it.

[Russ S.]

Re: Knock off's stuck

John, What you are saying makes sense and I understand what you have said. What motion or action is taking place when a wheel is coming loose while driving? Is it not that the spinner is rotating(in relation to the wheel) in the "off" direction? (in which case it would rotate off easier with lube on it) Maybe I am answering my own question when I say that I think what you will tell me is the wheel because it isn't properly mounted is moving in relation to the hub and the spinner and that causes the spinner to rotate in the off direction. Am I close?

[John H.]

Re: Knock off's stuck

John, What you are saying makes sense and I understand what you have said. What motion or action is taking place when a wheel is coming loose while driving? Is it not that the spinner is rotating(in relation to the wheel) in the "off" direction? (in which case it would rotate off easier with lube on it) Maybe I am answering my own question when I say that I think what you will tell me is the wheel because it isn't properly mounted is moving in relation to the hub and the spinner and that causes the spinner to rotate in the off direction. Am I close?

Russ -

The contributors to a KO wheel coming loose while driving are mis-indexing the installation of the wheel on the adapter (using the correct "long" lug nuts will prevent that), excessive clearance between the drive pins and the drive pin holes in the wheel ("egging") which causes chucking in both directions under both braking and acceleration, and spinners not properly tightened. If you pay attention to those three items, you'll have a trouble-free experience with them.