Inside hood paint line advice.........

[Keith B.]

Having my 66 TF car re-painted now, in org to car silver pearl lacquer.

trying to determine correct under chassis judgement, Sec 4. Hood & Hardware, the proper configuration, blackout & PAINT MARGIN.

I attached a pic of mine currently pre-painting at my last Regional.

I was dinged one point for improper margin on paint at hinge.

Can you tell me if my pic is correct and secondly what is the correct margin on paint at hinge supposed to look like.

thank-you..

[Russ S.]

Re: Inside hood paint line advice.........

You aren't showing the hinge.

[Tony S.]

Re: Inside hood paint line advice.........

Here's a photo of the correct paint margin. Notice how the red paint does not follow the inset on the hood. Instead, it is in a straight line. The body paint ends just at the hinge. Some cars that I have seen have a lighter application of body paint as it approaches the hinge. In either case, the straight paint margin is the same.

This photo was taken of Mike Russo's '65 survivor car at an advance judging school at the Queen City Regional last Fall.

[Wayne W.]

Re: Inside hood paint line advice.........

Typical

[Ronald L.]

Re: Inside hood paint line advice.........

On this inside of the hood,

what paint formula are you guys using the get the SG black correct?


Sherwin #___?
PPG, or other than a rattle can?

[Dick W.]

Re: Inside hood paint line advice.........

On this inside of the hood,

what paint formula are you guys using the get the SG black correct?


Sherwin #___?
PPG, or other than a rattle can?

PPG 9300 lacquer flattened to eggshell or the equivilent in single stage, choose yer poison

[Jack H.]

Re: Inside hood paint line advice.........

I don't think I'd call this photo 'typical' of factory production. Why?

Well, the outer lip of the hood was NOT tape masked. So how did this water walker of a painter manage to get the hood hinge blacked out on both the rearward and outer side surfaces WITHOUT leaving any trace of blackout paint on the outer lip of the hood around/behind the hinge???

This is what I'm used to seeing on original cars (excuse the lack of macro focus)...

[Michael H.]

Re: Inside hood paint line advice.........

I don't think I'd call this photo 'typical' of factory production. Why?

Well, the outer lip of the hood was NOT tape masked. So how did this water walker of a painter manage to get the hood hinge blacked out on both the rearward and outer side surfaces WITHOUT leaving any trace of blackout paint on the outer lip of the hood around/behind the hinge???

This is what I'm used to seeing on original cars (excuse the lack of macro focus)...

I'm not sure if I understand what you're saying, Jack. Are you saying that the hood was NOT masked or shielded during the blackout process?
I think it was.

[Jack H.]

Re: Inside hood paint line advice.........

No, not at all, Michael. The problem most restorers have is they execute the hood painting (both color AND black out) with the hood off the car. There, they TAPE mask the entire outer lip resulting in a non-factory original separation between color and black out.

At the factory the hood was installed (with hinges but without support prop) when the body went through the paint booth. After color application, a mask WAS used, but it was of 'drop down' form and fit loosely.

The parting line is often jagged & fuzzy, but not always... Plus, the outer fenders physically prevented the mask from extending all the way down to the front lip of the hood.

Note in the picture I provided how the black out 'drifts' to the outside edge of the hood's lip in the viscinity where the hood's reinforcement lip necks inward to provide clearance for hood hinge mounting. That's the area where the drop down mask would find interference with the top of the outer fenders.

I consider that picture more typical of factory black out. It's what I'm used to seeing--stray overspray of black out running off the hood and onto the side of the inner fender forward of the hood hinge.

That's essentially where the drop-down mask ended. So it's not a matter of whether or not there was any mask. It's a matter of how well the mask fit + where you'd the expect black out masking to start/stop on a real factory paint job.

The reason for discussing is, the thread poster wants to pick up the points lost on an incorrect black out. It'd be a pitty if he duplicated what was posted/shown as 'typical' only to lose the points again because he didn't get sloppy enough!

[Michael H.]

Re: Inside hood paint line advice.........

No, not at all, Michael. The problem most restorers have is they execute the hood painting (both color AND black out) with the hood off the car. There, they TAPE mask the entire outer lip resulting in a non-factory original separation between color and black out.

!

Ok, Thanks. I understand what you're saying now. It was just a bit confusing.

[Wayne W.]

Re: Inside hood paint line advice.........

No, not at all, Michael. The problem most restorers have is they execute the hood painting (both color AND black out) with the hood off the car. There, they TAPE mask the entire outer lip resulting in a non-factory original separation between color and black out.

At the factory the hood was installed (with hinges but without support prop) when the body went through the paint booth. After color application, a mask WAS used, but it was of 'drop down' form and fit loosely.

The parting line is often jagged & fuzzy, but not always... Plus, the outer fenders physically prevented the mask from extending all the way down to the front lip of the hood.

Note in the picture I provided how the black out 'drifts' to the outside edge of the hood's lip in the viscinity where the hood's reinforcement lip necks inward to provide clearance for hood hinge mounting. That's the area where the drop down mask would find interference with the top of the outer fenders.

I consider that picture more typical of factory black out. It's what I'm used to seeing--stray overspray of black out running off the hood and onto the side of the inner fender forward of the hood hinge.

That's essentially where the drop-down mask ended. So it's not a matter of whether or not there was any mask. It's a matter of how well the mask fit + where you'd the expect black out masking to start/stop on a real factory paint job.

The reason for discussing is, the thread poster wants to pick up the points lost on an incorrect black out. It'd be a pitty if he duplicated what was posted/shown as 'typical' only to lose the points again because he didn't get sloppy enough!

OK , So how is this for typical?

Look at the crap smeared all up the ledge, and the black paint.





And, the mask had splits in it on both sides and usually you can see the finger holes also. How technical do you want to get?

[Ronald L.]

Re: Inside hood paint line advice.........

Anthony,

On that survivor car...how did the hood hinge get painted but not the fasteners?

[Michael H.]

Re: Inside hood paint line advice.........

Typical

I would call this somewhat typical. The cut line at the bottom of the body color is a bit ususual because of the angle but certainly not "incorrect".

This particular car is a bit unusual in one way, though. Notice the red body color on the outboard side of the hinge bolts. That's a good indication that only one worker was painting from one side of the body instead of the usual one per side. He was standing on the left side of the body painting both sides of the hood.
This may also result in near zero black paint on the outer surface of the hood reinforcement. The hood in the picture appears to be this way.
I've watched this rare "one man blackout" operation occur in the St louis plant.

[Russ S.]

Re: Inside hood paint line advice.........

OK , So how is this for typical?

Look at the crap smeared all up the ledge, and the black paint.





And, the mask had splits in it on both sides and usually you can see the finger holes also. How technical do you want to get?

Does any one have pictures of this factory sleeve or shield that was used in production? I sure would like to see them.It would help us understand this whole precedure.

[Russ S.]

Re: Inside hood paint line advice.........

I would call this somewhat typical. The cut line at the bottom of the body color is a bit ususual because of the angle but certainly not "incorrect".

This particular car is a bit unusual in one way, though. Notice the red body color on the outboard side of the hinge bolts. That's a good indication that only one worker was painting from one side of the body instead of the usual one per side. He was standing on the left side of the body painting both sides of the hood.
This may also result in near zero black paint on the outer surface of the hood reinforcement. The hood in the picture appears to be this way.
I've watched this rare "one man blackout" operation occur in the St louis plant.

Mike, If this were the case how would that small amount of black in the hood support recess for the hindge get there? You have the red on the corner of the hood support indicating black paint got no farther toward the right edge of the hood but yet it got on the hindge recess. That doesn't seem possable.