stripped bolt through sombrero

[Gene M.]

Re: stripped bolt through sombrero

Solid carbide drill bit should go thru the grade 8 bolt with no problem. Step drill starting with an 1/8 and work your way up to tap drill size. Drill RPM should be slower.

Another way that nobody said is to break the welds of the sombrero and plug weld in a new one using a MIG.

The only thing I don't like is having a torch in the area any where next to the gas tank.

[Terry M.]

Re: stripped bolt through sombrero

Great discussion. Thanks for suggestions. I have few follow-up questions:

1) I have tried PB Blaster to no avail. I wouldn't expect Kroil be much if any better than PB Blaster?

2) How long is this bolt? Does it extend all the way through the sombrero and the plates of the frame that are supporting the sombrero? If so, seem like drilling out a Gr 8 is going to be pretty hard to do upside down.

3) So, I like Dennis's approach of welding on the nut. Dennis, could you point me to the other sites that show some detail on how they have done this in past? I'm wondering where/how they did the weld in order to get enough bead to withstand the torquing.

4) Do I need to be concerned about the flamability of prior applications of the PB blaster when I do the weld?

- Ryan

[Rich W.]

Re: stripped bolt through sombrero

Just a thought on the welder..I know around here you can rent one..might give that a try..cheaper on the weekends too..give you time to practice before you get to the actual bolt..

[Paul O.]

Re: stripped bolt through sombrero

Terry isn't that the mounting fixture on the frame for the for the differential support assembly were the rubber isolators are located? There should be no rubber parts there after the cross mount has been removed. The only thing I see is the mounting fixture and the sheared bolt.

The heat wrench would also be my suggesting at this points with the same safety point mentioned.


Paul 18046

[Tracy C.]

Re: stripped bolt through sombrero

Agree with Paul. What we see in the pic is all steel. The rubber cushions came off along with the crossmember the third member bolts to..

tc

[Terry M.]

Re: stripped bolt through sombrero

You guys are right. And I was using my latest pair of glasses. Forget what I said about the rubber. As Rosanne used to say: "NEVERmind."

[Gary R.]

Re: stripped bolt through sombrero

I have used the Kroil and I think it's better then Blaster for what I've seen.
I had a broken bolt in a rear cover that was really siezed up. I tired both Blaster and Kroil but they didn't work, propane wasn't hot enough so I used the oxy/ace torch to cherry the iron and clamp a vise grip on it. It was still hard to remove but it came out ok. Now I was doing this on a workbench, in the car makes it more tricky.

When I did my son's #3 mount in his 75 with the body on I had the same problem with seized bolts on both sides. I tried the welding trick but that didn't work along with a couple of others. I was then looking at the larger job of pulling the body,which I didn't want to do. Last resort was to try the Sears bolt removers, they look like sockets. That's what worked for me.

[Rich W.]

Re: stripped bolt through sombrero

Gary..I have those sockets also..I forgot about those..they do work very well..I also bought the open style that are made for studs..I had the Sears ones..got them for a Christmas gift years ago..found out quick that they are not warranted at all..so that was the end to the Sears tools that I did have..both Mac and Snap on make them and warranty them..if you do use them make sure you pound them on as far as they will go..impact works wonders with these things..they are made for exhaust but can work on anything..

[John H.]

Re: stripped bolt through sombrero

Before applying a flame source, use brake cleaner spray to remove the solvents and then let that evaporate. Never a fun thing. Good luck.