Replace Carb for 3810 Holley

[Paul S.]

I have a question--my 67 327/300 HP NOM Powerglide has an original 3810 and I know from its date code it likely wasn't the original (August 1966) and the car by VIN was a May 1967. Just a little background to what comes next, my question.

I want to replace the carb because it whistles and I am told it is probably the throttle bushings needing replacement, which really doesn't matter to me. In the end I would just like to replace it and be done with it vs. removing and sending it away and waiting weeks to get it back. I figure I can sell the carb I have (if I want to, to recover most of the cost of the new one, making my net out of pocket less than sending my carb to be rebuilt--or keep it just keep it).

LIC sells this Holley carb:

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000370a~Z5Z5Z5AADHB~P575.00~~~~S36Q0RAIF276186274424o~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000370a#

I've also seen it elsewhere (Corvette Central perhaps) with a notation that it is only for manual transmission cars. Does anyone know what's different for the 67 powerglide application/what parts I may have to take off my current carburetor to make it work?

Thanks.

[Joe L.]

Re: Replace Carb for 3810 Holley

I have a question--my 67 327/300 HP NOM Powerglide has an original 3810 and I know from its date code it likely wasn't the original (August 1966) and the car by VIN was a May 1967. Just a little background to what comes next, my question.

I want to replace the carb because it whistles and I am told it is probably the throttle bushings needing replacement, which really doesn't matter to me. In the end I would just like to replace it and be done with it vs. removing and sending it away and waiting weeks to get it back. I figure I can sell the carb I have (if I want to, to recover most of the cost of the new one, making my net out of pocket less than sending my carb to be rebuilt--or keep it just keep it).

LIC sells this Holley carb:

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000370a~Z5Z5Z5AADHB~ P575.00~~~~S36Q0RAIF276186274424o~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z5000 0370a#

I've also seen it elsewhere (Corvette Central perhaps) with a notation that it is only for manual transmission cars. Does anyone know what's different for the 67 powerglide application/what parts I may have to take off my current carburetor to make it work?

Thanks.

Paul------

The Holley 3810 for 1967 300 hp applications was the same for both manual and automatic transmission applications. You will need to transfer some of the linkage parts from the replaced carburetor to the new carburetor but that will be obvious when you have the 2 carbs side-by-side.

For driving, I would go with the new carb in a second---nothing makes a car run like a new carburetor----NOTHING!

By the way, although your current carb is out of date range, I would not absolutely conclude that it's not the original carb.

[Gerard F.]

Re: Replace Carb for 3810 Holley

Paul,

That carb in the LI link would work on your powerglide car with little exchange of parts. It does have a 3810 throttle with the kickdown stud on it.

It would judge as a replacement carb, with no date and other features on it, if you are going to get it judged.

By the way, that whistle could also be that the secondary throttle is too far open at idle. A simple adjustment to resolve.

[Clem Z.]

Re: Replace Carb for 3810 Holley

the whistle can also be caused because it does not have the proper carb to manifold gasket

[Paul S.]

Re: Replace Carb for 3810 Holley

On the cause of the whistle, and the thoughts above-it does it intermittently so I suspect it would not be the secondary throttle at idle issue. Gasket's possible, but I would still think that if the carb starts vacuum leaking as it heats up, it would start whistling and then not stop until the car cools or whatever. I do have new gaskets to try. But my brain tells me that by the time I have the old one off to put a new gasket between the carb and manifold, I'm already half way done with the labor (mine) to installing a new carb. But now I know I can make a new Holley work.

It's frustrating too, because aside from the whistle and occasionally the diaphram on the right side sticks (not sure what the part is called) it starts first try (when driven weekly before the fuel bowls dry out), idles and runs good.

[Stuart F.]

Re: Replace Carb for 3810 Holley

Usually any vacuum leak at a base gasket is significant enough to affect the way the engine runs - big time, so has been my experience.

Stu Fox

[Clem Z.]

Re: Replace Carb for 3810 Holley

straight edge the throttle plate across the corners and see if it is warped

[Gerard F.]

Re: Replace Carb for 3810 Holley

On the cause of the whistle, and the thoughts above-it does it intermittently so I suspect it would not be the secondary throttle at idle issue. Gasket's possible, but I would still think that if the carb starts vacuum leaking as it heats up, it would start whistling and then not stop until the car cools or whatever. I do have new gaskets to try. But my brain tells me that by the time I have the old one off to put a new gasket between the carb and manifold, I'm already half way done with the labor (mine) to installing a new carb. But now I know I can make a new Holley work.

It's frustrating too, because aside from the whistle and occasionally the diaphram on the right side sticks (not sure what the part is called) it starts first try (when driven weekly before the fuel bowls dry out), idles and runs good.

Paul,

You are probably right to replace the old one. Then you will have the time to figure out what went wrong with it, while you drive your car.

The common problem with the old Holley's is warped surfaces on the body, throttle plate, or the throttle bearing surfaces getting egg shaped. Lot's of other stuff with the floats, float seats and blocked vents. It's an education taking one apart.