'67 Turn Signal Switch Questions

[David P.]

Hello to All,

I have a few questions on the '67 turn signal switch.
I spent a 1/2 hour going through old threads on the subject and learned a few things, but I still have questions. Please forgive if the answers are well known.

I need to replace the TS switch in my 67 coupe.

Apparantly the original was GM 5698520 manufactured by Boyne.
I have seen NOS GM switches for big bucks.
I have heard of the following three repro. manufacturers:
Shee-Mar
Lectric Limited
M&H

There seems to be a shortage of these repro switches right now. Apparantly one of the manufacturers lost or broke the tooling.

Questions:
1. Is any of the above true? Who are the manufacturers, past and present?
2. Which is the best switch to buy? By best I mean:
a. Works properly and does not easily break
b. Most accurate reproduction-closest to what was installed on the production line
3. What about AC Delco? What is the correct part number? (Delco short number)
4. Or should I try to find a NOS GM switch? (and skimp on dinners for a few months)

Thanks in advance,

DAP

[Stephen L.]

Re: '67 Turn Signal Switch Questions

I used a Shee-Mar with good results. I believe they supply the other guys listed in your thread.

The wiring colors of the SHEE-MAR switch follow the wiring diagrams which are somewhat different than an original switch pigtail wiring colors. The wiring colors change to the wiring diagram colors at the plug.

I removed the wiring from my original switch and reused it on the new Shee-Mar switch. My original switch had the original part # tag still attached which I also reused.

Note the wire color differences in the photo.

Boyne was the original manufacturer for GM.

[Gerard F.]

Re: '67 Turn Signal Switch Questions

Hello to All,

I have a few questions on the '67 turn signal switch.
I spent a 1/2 hour going through old threads on the subject and learned a few things, but I still have questions. Please forgive if the answers are well known.

I need to replace the TS switch in my 67 coupe.

Apparantly the original was GM 5698520 manufactured by Boyne.
I have seen NOS GM switches for big bucks.
I have heard of the following three repro. manufacturers:
Shee-Mar
Lectric Limited
M&H

There seems to be a shortage of these repro switches right now. Apparantly one of the manufacturers lost or broke the tooling.

Questions:
1. Is any of the above true? Who are the manufacturers, past and present?
2. Which is the best switch to buy? By best I mean:
a. Works properly and does not easily break
b. Most accurate reproduction-closest to what was installed on the production line
3. What about AC Delco? What is the correct part number? (Delco short number)
4. Or should I try to find a NOS GM switch? (and skimp on dinners for a few months)

Thanks in advance,

DAP

David,

After trying two switches of unknown manufacture from the Partsladi on ebay, both of which went bad shortly, I went to the Shee-Mar one almost 2 years ago. Have had no problems with it since

Take the brown connector off and replace it with the original black one. You have to take the switch connector off the old and the new one anyway to snake the wiring up through the column.

Another trick is to use a shorter lever mounting screw with a lock washer, so that the lever doesn't wiggle fore and aft, and puts a constant pressure on the cam with the contact tangs on the switch.

Hope this helps

[Brian M.]

Re: '67 Turn Signal Switch Questions

Do these original switches require any maintenance?

[Stephen L.]

Re: '67 Turn Signal Switch Questions

Brian, the switches typically have a little grease in the appropriate locations. The problem is the plastic is 40+ yrs old and becomes brittle. In my case the springs finally overcame the plastic and the switch quick canceling correctly.

Gerry, the color code of the wires are different between an original switch and a replacement. Check out my photo closely to see the differences. This wiring is visible under the column and could be questioned by a judge.

[Gerard F.]

Re: '67 Turn Signal Switch Questions

Brian, the switches typically have a little grease in the appropriate locations. The problem is the plastic is 40+ yrs old and becomes brittle. In my case the springs finally overcame the plastic and the switch quick canceling correctly.

Gerry, the color code of the wires are different between an original switch and a replacement. Check out my photo closely to see the differences. This wiring is visible under the column and could be questioned by a judge.

Steve,

Correcto, there are different color wires on the replacement switches. As I remember, the replacements use striped wires instead of solid on some of the wires. But I think the stripes are pretty close to the original solid colors.

Steve, you must be pretty handy with a soldering gun to replace the new switch harness with your original. Too much time on your hands

Brian, the original switches do get brittle with age and they are a non-serviceable part. If you take a look at the 67 Chassis Service Manual, the standard procedure to replace the switch was to just cut the old cable at the harness connector to remove the old.

I have my original switch with a new cam on it, but would only use it in dire need. It works fine on the bench but it has a crack on the inside (against the column) where the lane change springs in the cam are located. This is probably a common failure. First the ears on the cam break off, then the lane change springs fall out or have no effect.

If your original switch is acting up, get a new one. Most judges, I think, would miss the wire color change, or give you only a minor deduct.

[Stephen L.]

Re: '67 Turn Signal Switch Questions

Jerry, I'm retired so I have lots of time.... and a small soldering iron. Details, details, details.......