1960 Wonderbar Radio
Prior to sending my radio to the west coast for repair, it would not seek/scan. It would play and pick up at least 6 AM radio stations in the Dallas, TX area. Besides not seeking/scanning, the volume would go up and down. I had no motor noise at all. In the interim time while the radio was out west, I had the "brilliant" idea to purchase a new repro antenna and rework it get that extra 2 inches from the third mast section. When the radio arrived, it would not stop on any stations, no matter where the red button was set. The Dallas area has a 100,000 watt AM station that I could tune in by hand and the radio sounded good. I returned the radio for more repair. Two weeks later the radio arrived and after installing it, it still will not stop on any stations and the interference caused by the motor is so loud I can not hear anything on it. Remember, no motor noise interference before it was worked on (all capacitors in place). Ground wires all in place and areas of attachment cleaned. I am wondering if the reworked antenna is the primary problem and I should purchase another repro antenna. My car is a driver and so I don't need the extra 2 inches of mast movement. In order to make a contact for the repro, reworked antenna, I used, as suggested in Restorer, a pop rivet. I believe the pop rivet probably makes minimal contact with the mast. The original antenna had a thin brass contact "ribbon" that rubbed along the mast. Like a fool, I destroyed the original to see how it was put together! The repro came with a brass pin that was driven through the brass part of the mast. I am really disappointed with the entire situation. I really don't think there is anything wrong with the radio after it has been worked on twice by one of the best in the business. Any suggestions?
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Re: 1960 Wonderbar Radio
Sent you a PM.Last edited by Jim D.; March 15, 2011, 11:20 PM. -
Re: 1960 Wonderbar Radio
Jim, I sent you a PM.Comment
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Re: 1960 Wonderbar Radio
Before you buy another antenna you could just hook up another one (not installed - just loose) with a spare cable. If you don't have one a buddy might. Don H.Comment
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Re: 1960 Wonderbar Radio
Joe, In a previous post you said you did some work on the bumber brackets, the ground for the antenna wire is attached to the left rear side bracket and if the contact is painted you may not be getting a "good" ground for the antenna.
Phil Porter
1960Comment
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Re: 1960 Wonderbar Radio
The radio ground is fixed under an unpainted bracket that I took my dremel tool and removed all rust when I installed the reworked repro antenna. I ordered a new antenna this afternoon. I believe and hope that this will take care of the poor reception and the motor noise. I suppose the 50 year old antenna cable could be bad, but the original antenna and cable provided excellent reception before I changed out the antenna and reworked it. I payed a price for my rework project. Yes, I made the 3rd section of the mast move up/down 2 inches, but at the expense of an antenna that is no good for reception. Chalk it up to another $$ lesson learned.Comment
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Re: 1960 Wonderbar Radio
I now know that there was nothing wrong with the Wonderbar after it was repaired; the first time or after I sent it back. The problem was the reworked repro antenna. I followed the rework instructions precisely as shown in a recent Restorer. I believe the head of the pop rivet does not make sufficient contact with the mast to generate a good signal to the cable. The rework will certainly allow the lower mast section to move that additional 2 inches, but in my case, it was at the expense of a signal so weak that the Wonderbar would not stop on any stations.
I took the antenna apart, reinserted a steel pin through the lower mast; just like it came from CC. The reception now is excellent and the Wonderbar searches and stops on numerous stations. The biggest problem now is the motor noise that I did not have before. I have not adjusted the attenuation screw yet to see if that will reduce the motor noise.Comment
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Re: 1960 Wonderbar Radio
Joe, I do not have a wonderbar manual but most attenuators will decrease the signal strength, which normally will set a level as not to recieve weak signals that may be causing the tuner to stop at a weak station. The motor in mine is noticeable when it tunes. But the good thing is it still operates after 50+ years.
Phil Porter
1960Comment
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Re: 1960 Wonderbar Radio
Joe, Is all of the original radio suppression stuff there? All ignition shielding, condensers, particularly the generator condenser, ground straps, etc?
When you say engine noise....... a whine or clicking? Clicking is usually spark plug noise. Whining usually is the generator. Maybe pull the belt and run the engine for a short time to diagnose the source. Do this when cold as the water pump is disabled. The condenser may look good, but can only be properly tested with a capacitance meter. You can at least check it for a short, when removed, with a ohm meter.
RichComment
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Re: 1960 Wonderbar Radio
When you mentioned motor noise I was thinking of the drive in the radio, it was late. Like was said the capacitors should be checked they are kind of pricey,I think of all the ones that got removed and tossed in earlier days. There are 2 different values .3 AND .5 mf. Also you said you had a ground on the case to the strap that holds the radio, I beleive there is a ground that also goes from the radio to the engine block. Grounds are so important in a Corvette.
Sorry for any confusion
Phil Porter
1960Comment
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Re: 1960 Wonderbar Radio
Symptom you describe (engine noise HOWLING and dominating radio) is TYPICAL of a given 'Oops' issue...
That's when the antenna lead-in cable's center conductor is fatigue fractured RIGHT AT the banana plug that installs in the radio chassis. What happens then is there's a short 'stub' of antenna lead-in cable that's effectively point RIGHT at the engine (through the firewall) causing the 1st stage RF amplifier to run at MAX gain vs. connecting through the lead-in cable to the antenna mast mounted on the rear fender, well away from the engine compartment.
Such typically is the result of 'Bubba' with his big hands inserting/removing the lead-in cable in an in-delicate manner. Side loading this connector is NOT recommended...
Test this hypothesis by purchasing an 'el cheapo' radio mast with captive lead-in wire from, say, WalMart (in the $7-10) range. Disconnect you existing antenna from the radio chassis and plug in the el cheapo replacement. If your problems SUDDENLY disappear, you know what/where the problem is you're fighting!!!
Remember, when you send a radio out for repair, that's not the ONLY thing that's changed! You had to remove and re-install the puppy dog and you could have hosed the antenna interconnect in the process...Comment
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