C1 Top Fender Molding Studs - NCRS Discussion Boards

C1 Top Fender Molding Studs

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  • Richard M.
    Super Moderator
    • August 31, 1988
    • 11323

    #16
    Re: C1 Top Fender Molding Studs

    Originally posted by Bill Mashinter (1350)
    There's a clear picture of the 3771930 in the 1960 AIM, and I believe it is a threaded washer-nut that is installed through access holes in the aluminum reinforcements. I don't have a 1959 AIM, but I'll bet the access holes and 3771930 were a running change during 1959. Maybe the push-in retainers are shown in the 1958 AIM. I don't have that either...

    I won't re-use the push-in retainers on my car. I will install nuts from the underside. Thanks to this thread, I know when to install them!

    Bill
    Bill, I'll check the '59 AIM again and see if there are any notations in the body section about the size of the rearward 2 holes. I somewhat doubt it though. There's nothing on the page that I showed in my earlier post.

    What is your '59 vin number(approx)? The nose on #5906 has those special retainers. 3771930 as you say is shown as a washer/nut from underneath, but maybe the running change from '58 using the special retainer never got referenced in the '59 AIM. I'm now uncertain about the part number of that retainer now. We need a '58 AIM showing the part# that is used there.

    If you're going to use threaded nuts instead, are you going to remove the upper horizontal reinforcements, or drill access holes in them? The only caveat in drilling holes is that if the car is to be judged, the interior folks may notice the holes and deduct. This '59 I'm restoring will not be judged so it is not a issue. That's why we opted to drill the access holes.

    That photo of my own '59(the reddish tinted one from using a flashlight when I took the shot), has very small holes for the studs to pass through. I could not get a good photo of the palnut up above the reinforcement, but it looks like it's impossible to get at. If I ever have to remove the moldings, I'll have to remove the reinforcement.....I think.

    Either way this thread turned out to be quite informative.

    Rich

    p.s. Jim.....where are you? what have you decided to do after getting all of this information??? I do not think the 2 studs on your need to be lengthened after all of this info. You either need the special retainers(or something similar), or ???.

    Comment

    • Bill M.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • April 1, 1977
      • 1386

      #17
      Re: C1 Top Fender Molding Studs

      Originally posted by Richard Mozzetta (13499)
      Bill, I'll check the '59 AIM again and see if there are any notations in the body section about the size of the rearward 2 holes. I somewhat doubt it though. There's nothing on the page that I showed in my earlier post.
      I'm guessing the hole size wasn't changed?

      Originally posted by Richard Mozzetta (13499)
      What is your '59 vin number(approx)? The nose on #5906 has those special retainers. 3771930 as you say is shown as a washer/nut from underneath, but maybe the running change from '58 using the special retainer never got referenced in the '59 AIM. I'm now uncertain about the part number of that retainer now. We need a '58 AIM showing the part# that is used there.
      My '59 is 2528, assembled in Dec. 58

      Originally posted by Richard Mozzetta (13499)
      If you're going to use threaded nuts instead, are you going to remove the upper horizontal reinforcements, or drill access holes in them? The only caveat in drilling holes is that if the car is to be judged, the interior folks may notice the holes and deduct. This '59 I'm restoring will not be judged so it is not a issue. That's why we opted to drill the access holes.
      I plan to use the new trim I got from service, which have unthreaded studs, so I'll have to use pal nuts. All my reinforcements are out of the body, so I'll install the trim before the reinforcements. I won't drill holes for access in case the car is judged someday, but the pal nuts will be wrong...

      Originally posted by Richard Mozzetta (13499)
      Either way this thread turned out to be quite informative.

      Rich
      Agreed. Probably saved me from pulling all the reinforcements out for the second time!

      Thanks to all the posters.

      Bill

      Comment

      • Richard M.
        Super Moderator
        • August 31, 1988
        • 11323

        #18
        Re: C1 Top Fender Molding Studs

        After I posted her this morning I noticed a few PM's from Joe L. and John H.

        I asked them if they knew anything about the 3771930 and when the moldings were installed........

        Joe L had no design/material specs on the 3771930 nut. He did say however that it was used on 1958 & 1959 Corvettes and discontinued from service in December of 1960.

        John H said that the horizontal reinforcements were installed in the Body Shop before the body went to the Paint Shop, and that the top moldings were installed at the Hard Trim Line after paint. He also said, and i'll quote him as I don't want to get it wrong, "Obviously, between the material changes in the reinforcements, access holes vs. no access holes, and threaded nuts vs. barbed retainers, the plant didn't like the design and kept Engineering busy with deviations and design changes."

        This confirms how confusing it appears for us now. It sounds like then, they tried different approaches to a continuing problem, IMO, likely from feedback from the assembly folks, service/repair centers and auto body shops!

        Rich
        p.s. It really amazes me what we learn here. Special thanks to Joe L and John H for keeping me straight. I'm thankful that we have so many people dedicated to our Corvette history and are here to help us when we get infatuated with.......... all of these little details!

        Comment

        • Mike E.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • February 28, 1975
          • 5138

          #19
          Re: C1 Top Fender Molding Studs

          I have 59 #6640--original paint. Definitely has threaded studs. However, the area regarding the two rear studs has been sprayed, on both sides, with an undercoating-type material that has hardened, and obscures what is above the aluminum cage. By feel, my observation would be the barbed fasteners, but I can't be sure. Why the undercoating material, I don't know--still has original carpet, etc., and no real reason why nor evidence of, the kick panels having been off. Definitely no holes in the aluminum for access to the rear studs.

          Comment

          • Brad H.
            Expired
            • August 12, 2007
            • 724

            #20
            Re: C1 Top Fender Molding Studs

            On my 58 years back I noticed that my drivers side at the door stuck up about 1/8 inch and that it had been glued, I got underneath and looked and the stud was threaded with nothing on it and very hard to get to as you have all noted, I was able to put a nut on I believe small putty knife with tape to hold the nut in place, the sliding it up to the stud and holding it firmly was able to turn the nut with a tiny flathead and starting the thread I was good to go, was able to draw the molding down tight and it is still fine, talk about luck or a fine pat on the back. Thanks, Brad.

            Comment

            • Stephen R.
              Very Frequent User
              • May 20, 2008
              • 302

              #21
              Re: C1 Top Fender Molding Studs

              I was just wondering what keeps water from entering those two holes and getting down into that interior well? Was there any caulk?

              Comment

              • Richard M.
                Super Moderator
                • August 31, 1988
                • 11323

                #22
                Re: C1 Top Fender Molding Studs

                There's non-hardening black sealer around the ones I have here. I think you can see it in one of my pics earlier. I call it "dum-dum".

                Rich

                Comment

                • Pat H.
                  Very Frequent User
                  • December 1, 1996
                  • 419

                  #23
                  Re: C1 Top Fender Molding Studs

                  I just looked closely at the fender again and found one of those clip embedded in the fibreglass on the drivers side by the windshield. The other one does't have anything in the hole. The passengers side has nothing in either hole. My VIN 1084 and I've found numerous 58 parts on the car including the door posts on both sides. The spears are later GM replacements that I've threaded, but left the 2 rear stud plain. Based on the comments, I think I'll thread them as well which will promote a better fit. As to the comment about water in the cabin, yes it does leak and silicone or dum-dum works.

                  Comment

                  • Richard M.
                    Super Moderator
                    • August 31, 1988
                    • 11323

                    #24
                    Re: C1 Top Fender Molding Studs

                    Pat, you replied to the old thread here, you may want to update your original thread here....

                    https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...401#post714401

                    Rich

                    Comment

                    • Edward L.
                      Expired
                      • January 1, 1993
                      • 278

                      #25
                      Re: C1 Top Fender Molding Studs

                      Originally posted by James Rice (49716)
                      I am trying to attach my top fender molding to my freshly painted 58. The molding is from CC and the 2 mounting studs under the dash are too short. They need to be 1/2-3/4" longer. Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas on a fix?Thanks,Jim
                      1958 Corvettes used the push-in retainers to secure the last two studs of the top fender molding. As others have pointed out, there is no room to run a nut onto the stud because of the reinforcement metal underneath. The same procedure was used in 1959 until approximate VIN 8000. At that time the molding was attached with a screw at the very end. This was done to eliminate the problem of the retainers allowing the molding to rise up.I first discovered the use of this procedure when I restored a last day of production 1959. When I acquired the car. the molding had a nice recess at the rear of the molding and was held down with a Philips head screw. My first reaction was that it was a back yard mechanic's handiwork. However, when I removed the molding I found that the original stud had been cut off, and immediately behind that position a recessed hole had been formed for the screw I mentioned earlier. Still a Bubba job? No! Upon further examination I found that there was no hole where the stud would have entered the top of the fender. This was virgin fiberglass. There is no other explanation other than this was done at the factory.I continued my research, and over time I found at least six other cars that had had the Philips head installation on their '59. In some cases the last stud had been cut off, in others the stud remained with the addition of the screw. All of these cars had a VIN over 8000. At least a couple of the owners use this board. Hopefully, they and any others, will chime in.With the 1960 year a recess was formed in the under fender reinforcement to allow easy installation of the nut from underneath.I do have photo's. If anyone is interested in seeing them, please email me at edlepelis@verizon.net.PS I did present my findings to the National Team Leader in hopes of seeing some mention of this in a future manual revision before any more history is lost because a point or two might be deducted during the judging process.Ed

                      Comment

                      • Pat H.
                        Very Frequent User
                        • December 1, 1996
                        • 419

                        #26
                        Re: C1 Top Fender Molding Studs

                        I finished the installation yesterday afternoon and everything looks great. The retainer that was in the body was worn so I added a sliver of brass sheet with some dum-dum and the new retainers that were purchased from NAPA. The ends are snug, but probably could be removed, but I won't try that. Thanks to everyone for the info

                        Comment

                        • Keith R.
                          Very Frequent User
                          • August 31, 2001
                          • 660

                          #27
                          Re: C1 Top Fender Molding Studs

                          For what it's worth, here's a photo of the 3752642 speed nuts for sale currently on e-Bay. GM Wiki Parts also describes them as the replacement for the 3771930 nuts.
                          Attached Files
                          Keith MacRae
                          NCRS #36692
                          New Mexico Chapter
                          1960 290HP FI
                          2013 427 Convertible

                          Shade tree mechanic and
                          B-52 pilot extraordinaire

                          Comment

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