rear pinion snubber

[Bruce B.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Why remove the 2 cross bolts?
I changed the snubber just by removing the bolt through the washers and the rubber snubber.
If you don't want to use a crowbar use a pry bar.

[Ronald L.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Bruce - no reason to - you cannot remove them anyway.

I'll be on the crow bar in the morning, it was joking, I have a nice big one that works wonders on walls or anything else you want to rip down fast!

[Donald O.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

For never having been apart before it looked a little better than the left one in the photo above, but its probably time, the idea is to replace these and the strut rod bushing - a new thread...

You're gonna need BFH to remove the lower shock mount from the rear spindle carrier. You may still to replace the lower shock mounts. I had to replace one and I used an 8# brass hammer.

[Bruce B.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Ron,
I have attached 2 pictures of how I used the crowbar. I realize it is a crude tool but it worked great. It misses the brake line but you have to be careful it does not slip.
By the way it is a Stanley 30 inch number 10. I never knew it was marked.
Be careful.

[Ronald L.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Bruce, I appreciate the photos. That position is exactly where I was looking to pry and in my case the brake line is a little lower, I know it hits so I think a block of wood on the frame will keep it clear of that line.

[Ronald L.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Bruce, That was a 5 minute job!

I actually started with a pickle fork for separating ball joints spaced off the brake line with a 1/4" thick wood shim, that kept it (fork or crow bar) from just touching.

The longest part was trying to blow some air up there and get some of the Pennsylvania red clay out of the area.

The trick is ...

There is one spot that you can get the upper snubber in & out, once you know that the rest is a POC.

Thanks for the tip on the crow bar, pretty sure mine is that same #30 and I did use that to put the new one in, it has much better leverage and I was surprised how much I had to pull it down to get the lower bushing into position.

Now on to those shock mounts...

[Bruce B.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Ron,
Good to hear that the snubber job was a piece of cake.
As far as the shock mounts I don't know a thing about them.
I do have to do my emergency brakes and to do it by the book you have to apparently remove the axles. But I have been told if I make a small tool from a screwdriver I can then release the springs and replace them without pulling the axles.
Have you gotten into the e-brakes on your car?

[Ronald L.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Bruse, Not on this car, this car is is basically untouched except where someone had to do a repair. The shocks are from the 70's, those red delco's...

I do recall that from prior cars there was a hooked tool and I do know that I did not pull any axles... I have to look in that tool box that the pickle forks were in.

[Stephen B.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Bruce
How in the world did you get your wife to help work on your car. You are a lucky man, she's a keeper.
Stephen Barrett (21558) 59,66,71,73

[Bruce B.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Steve,

She will help work on them but her job description DOES NOT include cleaning.

Bruce

[Stephen B.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Gentalmen
I have used both Polygraphite bushings and rubber alike. I prefer the poly bushing on A arms and trailing arms and rubber on anything that mounts directly to the frame.I've tryed the poly for engine trans and rear end monts and didn't like them because too much vibration was transfered thru them.I much prefer the poly bushings for A frames, sway bars, and trailing arms.
Stephen Barrett (21558) 59,66,71,73