rear pinion snubber

[Keith L.]

Is this repo rubber the correct shape for my 70? I can't tell if the origional is shaped different from age or not.

[Paul D.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Looks right to me. When I put new ones on my 71 years ago I remember the shape looking entirely different (not squashed or cracked). Are those new pieces rubber or poly? They look awfully shiney to be rubber. You probably won't have squeak problems if they are poly, but they may not compress the same when you install them. Chip.

[Keith L.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

I thought they looked shinney also. I didn't order poly unless I made a mistake. I wondered if the old one was just mashed.

[Paul L.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Looks fine to me. And yes the rubber appears shiny. As an aside this pic shows the difference between rubber (bottom) and poly (top).

[Bruce B.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Keith,
I just replaced the snubber in my 65 coupe.
The tired ones look like yours, smashed and cracked.
With the new ones, the car drives much better and strange noises have been eliminated.

[Keith L.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

They are rubber. I talked to the vender and he says they are shiney. Any ideas how to dull them down a little. I would think correct look would be less shiney.

[Bruce B.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Try ScotchBrite.

[Wayne M.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

here's a set I bought from GM dealer in 2004 -- a little pricey .

#'s 3795333 and 3788637; $38 for the set.

[Bruce B.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Wayne,
I bought mine recently from Keen Parts located near me in Ohio and the price was about $20 with the bolt, washers and nut.
It appeared to be well made.

[Ronald L.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

I have this on the list to do this month too, but given its been 30 years since the last change, CRS hit, Is it only the two horizontal through bolts that have to go?

What's the best penetrating oil to eat up the rust?

[Bruce B.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Ron,
I just removed the bolt that goes through the 2 snubber rubbers, used a crowbar to spread the bracket apart and then removed the pieces. I had to sort of fish out the upper rubber fronm the bracket.
A fairly easy job, with my wifes help.

[Ronald L.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Bruce,

How do you get the bolt (head) past the drive shaft???

[Bruce B.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Ron,
I used the crowbar to move the bracket down and my wife wiggled the bolt around to get it past the driveshaft and into the proper position.

[Donald O.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

I have this on the list to do this month too, but given its been 30 years since the last change, CRS hit, Is it only the two horizontal through bolts that have to go?

What's the best penetrating oil to eat up the rust?

There are two penetrants, Kroil & SiliKroil. Not found in stores either.

There are two bolts that go through the Diff and front mounting flange, and in opposite directions from each other.

[Ronald L.]

Re: rear pinion snubber

Bruce,
I use crow bars to rip down walls in houses, not on the car...LOL.

Its clear the area to stay away from is that brake line.

Don, This has been kroil-ed for a week, the nut came right off with an impact, but those two cross bolts don't come out, can't - they hit the floor pan.

Crow bar tomorrow...

For never having been apart before it looked a little better than the left one in the photo above, but its probably time, the idea is to replace these and the strut rod bushing - a new thread...