gas bowl bubble
Last Saturday I was out for a drive. The car was running great and the temp guage showed between the mark before 180 and 180- so probably 170. Outside temp was over 90 F (I'm in Perth Western Australia). After back road cruising at around 70 mph for 25 minutes I get to the longest stop light in the country on a slight incline. After a few minutes I notice the temp guage crossing 180. Sitting at idle, I went to increase the revs to get more fan speed, pushed the throttle and the engine died. It stalled like sometimes on a sharp left turn- like fuel, but it would not start with the starter. Pushed it through the lights , down a freeway on ramp and was able to compression start it and temperature came straight down and it didn't happen again. I notice looking at the gas bowl there is a bubble about maybe a half inch long in it. Could the bubble be the stall cause? Does the heat somehow cause a bubble to form. How do I fix this? Is the bubble a factor in this stall? Is outside temperature relevant? It's real embarassing stalling in this car. I feel like if I'm going to take a 50 year old car on the road it should be running properly. (I may have brought it on myself- I had just told my lady how good it was running when it stalled.) Thanks for any ideas. I think I get it running perfect and this happens.
-
-
Re: gas bowl bubble
sounds like you may have had a "vapor lock". check to make sure your gas line is not touching anything hot like the bottom rad hose or the engine. if the fuel line is not outside the frame in the engine compartment you may have to shield it from the exhaust heat. back in the day when we installed dual exhaust on 55 chevys we had to move the fuel line outside the frame to stop vapor lock -
Re: gas bowl bubble
Good points Clem, yes definite possibility.
Richard, I have a '59 and here in Florida and in the summer it's always a pain at the traffic lights. I see the gauge climb too. One thing I always forget to check every once in a while is the coolant level. If you have that stock radiator with the "downhill" filler neck, it's hard to tell the level. When cold I check it and just the other day it was down about a quart. I top it off and always keeps it cool, until some time later have to do it again as it looses some out the cap overflow. I have alway been temped to add a coolant recovery tank but I hate the looks of those things.
RichComment
-
Re: gas bowl bubble
While the car is cold should I take the bowl off, fill it and put it back or forget the bubble? In this hot climate if I wrap the fuel lines in the engine bay with fire proof insulation, the previous responses suggest that will help avoid vapor lock? Don't know if this is relevant but my 61 is a dual fours 283- 270hp.Comment
-
Re: gas bowl bubble
Richard, IMO I don't think that is necessary. It should clear itself. One issue though. You do not have a extra fuel filter before the pump do you? This would exacerbate the problem. I learned years ago it is best not to try to get a fuel pump to draw from a filter. It will also draw air. It's best to push fuel through a filter. Learned this from a old timer when I was a kid working on old wodden boats at the boatyard.
I too have a dual four 283/270. There is always a air pocket in the glass bowl. It never fills with fuel completely. As the pump pushes the fuel, you can see some at the bottom and it will push it past the glass bowl filter up into the line to the carbs. In 25 years of ownership I may have seen the bowl full of fuel a handful of times. Actually a mystery to me, but never problematic.
What you experienced that day was likely what Clem diagnosed. Heat soak has been a problem of mine also. As mentioned, I see the temp rise sitting at a light, rev engine to push more air hoping it'll be ok. It' is also what happens if I stop for a while somewhere, come out 10 minutes later and the rising engine heat causes vapor lock and hard restarts. Have to start with accelerator slowly at half throttle to open the primaries of the primary carb to get it going. After a little feathering to clear out the cylinders of unspent fuel it clears up. Sometimes a slight backfire. BTW many years ago I floored the pedal on a hot restart, but then was stuck downhill in traffic and a fire resulted because the front carb had fuel leaking out the worn throttle shafts onto the hot manifold.
Somewhere here in the archives I have the full story.
I now never go full pedal down on a hot restart to get air on 2x4's with stock progressive linkage. Only half so the front carb doesn't get a shot of fuel.
RichComment
-
Re: gas bowl bubble
No extra fuel filter- it's all stock- top flight but if I insulate the fuel lines I'll use something I can take off for judging. I guess it's worth a try.Comment
-
Re: gas bowl bubble
Hi Richard,
I have a C-1 Blueflame six that after driving it for 15 or 30 minutes and I stop for over 5 or 10 minutes the car will not start. The starter motor will turn but won't start even if I hold the peedle to the floor. The only solution I found that if I carry a spark plug wrench and take out one of the spark plugs and crank the motor it will start in 5 seconds and I turn it off and install the spark plug and drive home... I have all new spark plus and wires, Changed the coil, capacitor and fuel filter and I have wooden laundry clips on the fuel line to disperse the heat for this issue but it is not resolve...
IS it the ethanal in the gas and should I just run only 87 nonethanal gas with an octaine supreme in the tank to resolve the issue. I am at a loss. If the weather is under 80 degrees the car runs fine and restarts with no issue but over 85 to 90 the car hates hot weather and its only driven 4 maybe to 4 times a year. Let me know your thoughts,,,,,,Mark WileyComment
Comment