Re: 66 Instrument Panel Need Some Help
Bob,
John Hinkley wrote a excellent diagnosis procedure for this.....
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...rFuelGauge.pdf
But please..... for safety, be very careful around the fuel tank when jumpering any wires. A spark due to a 12v to ground short is not a good thing.
So.....since you say this all seemed to work before the cluster was restored, the problem may be in the gauge. It's the only thing that has changed right? Unless of course something mysterious happened up the line over the last few months. Maybe someone reverse wired the connector in a prior repair, but I doubt it's that.
I don't have a car in front of me, but by the schematic I see the 2 wires to the gauge on 66-67 are tan and pink. The pink should be at the large square end of the connector, tan at the small end. If so, it's properly configured. The sender tan & pink wires go through the firewall bulkhead connector. Check the connector there for shorts too. Tan is top row 3rd from end, pink is bottom row 2nd from end.
See John's "Quick Check" section. This will rule out the sender or gauge. In addition to the quick check, I'd test the gauge function manually by doing this.....
- Ignition key off, then remove the harness connector from the gauge.
- Jumper 12v from the gauge harness connector pink wire terminal to where the pink wire(big conn end) is normally connected.
- Attach a jumper wire to the tan(small conn end) terminal on the gauge, long enough so it'll allow you to view the gauge when crawl back out of the "hole".
- Ignition key on. Touch the jumper-to-tan above to a known clean ground. The gauge should peg full.
If the above works, the gauge is ok. Something in the wiring is likely wrong. Maybe a short between the tan and some power source. If not the gauge is the culprit, or it's case is somehow shorted at the terminals. If so, I'd call the person who restored the cluster and ask if the gauge was replaced or repaired internally.
Rich
Bob,
John Hinkley wrote a excellent diagnosis procedure for this.....
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...rFuelGauge.pdf
But please..... for safety, be very careful around the fuel tank when jumpering any wires. A spark due to a 12v to ground short is not a good thing.
So.....since you say this all seemed to work before the cluster was restored, the problem may be in the gauge. It's the only thing that has changed right? Unless of course something mysterious happened up the line over the last few months. Maybe someone reverse wired the connector in a prior repair, but I doubt it's that.
I don't have a car in front of me, but by the schematic I see the 2 wires to the gauge on 66-67 are tan and pink. The pink should be at the large square end of the connector, tan at the small end. If so, it's properly configured. The sender tan & pink wires go through the firewall bulkhead connector. Check the connector there for shorts too. Tan is top row 3rd from end, pink is bottom row 2nd from end.
See John's "Quick Check" section. This will rule out the sender or gauge. In addition to the quick check, I'd test the gauge function manually by doing this.....
- Ignition key off, then remove the harness connector from the gauge.
- Jumper 12v from the gauge harness connector pink wire terminal to where the pink wire(big conn end) is normally connected.
- Attach a jumper wire to the tan(small conn end) terminal on the gauge, long enough so it'll allow you to view the gauge when crawl back out of the "hole".
- Ignition key on. Touch the jumper-to-tan above to a known clean ground. The gauge should peg full.
If the above works, the gauge is ok. Something in the wiring is likely wrong. Maybe a short between the tan and some power source. If not the gauge is the culprit, or it's case is somehow shorted at the terminals. If so, I'd call the person who restored the cluster and ask if the gauge was replaced or repaired internally.
Rich
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