Balancer Mylar Degreed Tape

[Stuart F.]

This may seem like a dumb off the wall question, but has anyone ever applied "Mr. Gasket" Mylar Degreed tape on their balancer? The reason I ask is I got this bug about wanting to set up my engine (63 L-76) in a way to make valve adjustment (per the Williams/Hinkley method) easier to do on a more routine basis (at least once/year). Duke recommends using masking tape, i.e. by dividing the balancer's circumference by four and marking from 0* every 90*. I was looking for something more permanent, but don't want to damage the balancer in the process.

I bought the tape specified for application to my 8" balancer for the purpose of valve setting and ignition timing. My only problem with it is that, in order for the adhesive backing to stick properly, they specify that you remove any paint from the balancer's surface and clean it thoroughly of any grease, dirt or oil, etc. I'm not too keen on the paint removal part.

Also, it's been awhile since I used a remoter starter switch (don't laugh), rather I always used the ignition switch. With the W/H method, you have to jog the engine over two revolutions, stopping at every 90*. I can't see myself doing that anymore as this engine (with the RH mounted alternator), is hard to pull a degree mark or two using hands on the fan belt, as I used to do back in the day (my youth). Soooooooo, how do I connect that sucker up - I forgot! (again, don't laugh. It could happen to you some day).

Thanks for any advice.

Stu Fox

[Duke W.]

Re: Balancer Mylar Degreed Tape

I don't see why the paint has to be removed, but certainly the surface should be clean.

The masking tape is just temporary. You can use it as a template to make semi permanent marks - like with paper whiteout, which is soluble in alcohol and can be removed without damaging the balancer tape.

The tape was good for looking at the timing map back in the old days, but now that we have dial back timing lights...

It's easy to turn the engine with a 1/2" breaker bar and socket on the balancer bolt, or you can put it in top gear, brake off, and bump the car forward or back as required.

Duke

[Joel F.]

Re: Balancer Mylar Degreed Tape

Stu,

I usually turn my engine over using a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket over the balancer bolt.

Regarding the remote starter, put one lead on the fat post, and the other on the S post.

I would think the mylar would stick just fine to a clean painted surface.

[Steven B.]

Re: Balancer Mylar Degreed Tape

Stu, I have used the mylar tape years ago and just cleaned the balancer, i did not remove the paint. It worked OK for 4-5 years. I also used apunch and made small marks on the balance---won't do that again although no problems there either. I also have used a very small brush and white paint that worked well, but I like Duke's 'white out" method best as it is not permanent and easily removed. I am still using my "new" timing light I bought in the late '70's, not the old one I got in '64. My remote starter is usually another person.

Steve

[Stuart F.]

Re: Balancer Mylar Degreed Tape

Duke;

I considered the barring method, but every time I look at the area I see myself having to remove the fan in order to make a good tool connection for leverage (from top side), or having to crawl under the car too many times to do from below - as well as floor clearance concerns.

I miss the old open bottom bell housings (w/inspection pans). Back in the day, a helper with a long screwdriver worked great.

Thanks for your suggestions. I will revisit the barring method as, needless to say, that is a preferred way.

I'm inclined to just clean the balancer and apply the tape (as long as I have it). If it stays on for awhile - great! If not, well it doesn't cost a whole lot to try.

Thanks again, and have a great day.

Stu Fox

[Larry M.]

Re: Balancer Mylar Degreed Tape

Stu,

Regarding the remote starter, put one lead on the fat post, and the other on the S post.

Be sure to use insulated clip connectors on your remote starter leads............or be very careful

Larry

[Stuart F.]

Re: Balancer Mylar Degreed Tape

Joel and Steve;

Thanks for your quick responses and suggestions. I think I have it now including several options. It's the kind of thing I like to do by myself so I can concentrate on the drag on the feeler gauge and not get my valves mixed up. It's an old man's thing.

Stu Fox

[Stuart F.]

Re: Balancer Mylar Degreed Tape

Larry;

If I can do it with a barring tool I will stay away from the starter. This car has a 47-1/2 year old history of starter maladies. Beginning with; when I first drove it down to New Mexico from Wisconsin (August 63), I would shut the engine off and it would start right back up on it's own. We had to remove the battery terminal each time we stopped on the trip. Took it into a dealer in El Paso who fould the starter had a short in it. Real scary.

Stu Fox

[Duke W.]

Re: Balancer Mylar Degreed Tape

Another semi permanent mark you car use is a tire crayon - or a felt marker designed for a white board. I'm sure there are other options.

If getting a bar and socket on the balancer bolt is a hassle, just use the top gear bump method. ...ever tried it? It's a no brainer, and like I say, you only have to be within about five maybe even ten degrees of the marks and you're still on the cam base cylinder for the two valves at that crank position.

Using the starter or remote starter switch is total overkill. You only have to bump the car a few inches in top gear to move the crank 90 degrees.

Duke

[Stuart F.]

Re: Balancer Mylar Degreed Tape

Duke;

Thanks. I agree that the starter switch is not a good idea. I'll be running the car up on ramps to apply the tape and/or markings, so probably the barring is the best way to go (ya think?).

I'm heading out to Eckler's with my son today. Anyone need anything?

Stu Fox

[Larry M.]

Re: Balancer Mylar Degreed Tape

I have used a remote starter MANY MANY times on various cars throughout the years without issues....and without doing anything special. However, the Chevrolet Service Manual for my 1967 has the following statement in Section 6M-11:

"CAUTION: Whenever the engine is cranked remotely at the starter, with a special jumper cable or other means, the primary distributor lead must be disconnected from the negative post on the coil and the ignition switch must be in the ON position. Failure to do this will result in a damaged grounding circuit in the ignition switch."

Posting this to make folks aware of this potential issue with their Corvette.

Larry

[Stuart F.]

Re: Balancer Mylar Degreed Tape

Larry;

Thanks for posting. Now I know I will bar the engine manually and toss that remote switch back into my bottom drawer. I never liked messing with electricals. I was always under the assumption that using such a switch was safe because you didn't need to have the ignition switch ON, i.e. no potential engine startup.

Thanks again.

Stu Fox

[Duke W.]

Re: Balancer Mylar Degreed Tape

Try the "bump method" first. It's really easy.

Duke

[Michael F.]

Re: Balancer Mylar Degreed Tape

I installed my tape over my painted balancer. It was a proper first paint. Then I used a semi-gloss clear to seal the tape onto the balancer. Works like a charm.

[Joe C.]

Re: Balancer Mylar Degreed Tape

This may seem like a dumb off the wall question, but has anyone ever applied "Mr. Gasket" Mylar Degreed tape on their balancer? The reason I ask is I got this bug about wanting to set up my engine (63 L-76) in a way to make valve adjustment (per the Williams/Hinkley method) easier to do on a more routine basis (at least once/year). Duke recommends using masking tape, i.e. by dividing the balancer's circumference by four and marking from 0* every 90*. I was looking for something more permanent, but don't want to damage the balancer in the process.

I bought the tape specified for application to my 8" balancer for the purpose of valve setting and ignition timing. My only problem with it is that, in order for the adhesive backing to stick properly, they specify that you remove any paint from the balancer's surface and clean it thoroughly of any grease, dirt or oil, etc. I'm not too keen on the paint removal part.

Also, it's been awhile since I used a remoter starter switch (don't laugh), rather I always used the ignition switch. With the W/H method, you have to jog the engine over two revolutions, stopping at every 90*. I can't see myself doing that anymore as this engine (with the RH mounted alternator), is hard to pull a degree mark or two using hands on the fan belt, as I used to do back in the day (my youth). Soooooooo, how do I connect that sucker up - I forgot! (again, don't laugh. It could happen to you some day).

Thanks for any advice.

Stu Fox

There is no need to remove the paint. Clean the balancer thoroughly, and the best product for that purpose is "Prep-Sol" as a final cleaner just before applying the tape.

Before I apply mine, I made some copies and printed them, so I have plenty of spares. The original, Mylar tape has been installed for quite some time now. I laminated over the tape with 2" wide clear packing tape. Don't forget to dull down the surface of the clear plastic tape, otherwise there will be too much reflection during timing sessions.