1966 Tune-up
My 66 coupe has a 327-300hp engine. I want to tune it up. I am going to have it flight judged in the spring. What is the correct distributor cap, rotor, points and condenser I should use when tuning it up? Thanks for any info.....
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Re: 1966 Tune-up
Larry,
Go to NAPA and get standard points and condenser for your 300hp motor. If you want AC44 plugs try the driveline magazine or ebay as these are not available over the counter.
If the distributor cap is a delco and looks to be in good condition don't change it. A better investment would be spark plug wires but if you buy aftermarket (repro's) be careful how you handle them. Look in archives for specific info about these plug wires, your engine should have the Carter AFB and should idle down low very smooth.
I am partial to the 300hp motor because of the torque for the street. I must be getting old because when I go around a corner I don't feel like down shifting anymore. -
Re: 1966 Tune-up
Tim;
Is it the arthritis in the right arm or the left knee that's your problem? I work out every day just to keep in shape for driving my 63 L-76 (340hp). With a 3.36 final and CR tranny, I have to downshift and enjoy doing so.
Believe you fellows have given him the best advice on a tune up.
Dr. Stu FoxComment
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Re: 1966 Tune-up
I would suggest Accel 110128 points as I have had point bounce with NAPA points.Comment
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Re: 1966 Tune-up
Exactly! For the way most of us drive our cars, today, the 327/300 is ideal with its docile low speed manners and stump-pulling low end torque. If you want "more power" the Special 300 HP configuration yields SHP type top end power with no effect on idle, low end torque, or Flight judging deduction, and it will pass a PV.
A stock 300 HP won't make useable power past 5000, so the standard tension points are fine. If they bounce, there's probably a problem in the distributor like a wobbly breaker plate and excess end play.
Most of these cars probably need more than a simple tuneup. Many need a distributor overhaul/blueprinting to achieve maximum performance. There's lot's of info on this in the archives.
Also, if you don't know when the plug wires were last changed, check them with an ohmeter, and a wire with more than 5K ohms per foot should be replaced.
DukeComment
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Re: 1966 Tune-up
This is the best advice. On my sun machine I see a big difference in delco points from mexico vs the accel. Also they are bouncie on the gauge. The resistance is bad on the mexican samples too. Also you need to check out the resistance in the wire between the distributor and the coil. I have found some replacements have resistance higher than the points. Not a good thing.Comment
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Re: 1966 Tune-up
Larry,
Agree with Duke and the others on the tune up suggestions. BTW, your car should have a Holley 3367.
On my 66 300 horse, the biggest improvement was made when the distributor was rebuilt. If yours hasn't been, I would highly suggest it.
One last comment, there is a reproduction rotor with the "correct extendened copper tip that closes the gap left by other rotors" you can purchase that is advertised in the Driveline (page 18) from K & B Products. I've heard great things about it from other members who use them and plan on trying one out.
Cheers and good luckRob
'66 327/300 Regional Top Flt
'08 6 speed coupeComment
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Re: 1966 Tune-up
GM does not make these parts anymore. In fact, not for nearly 20 years. They are available in the Delco brand and all the traditional OE replacement brands, but the only difference is the packaging. All the parts come from the same source - Standard Motor Products.
The only part which is thoroughly judged is the cap, so if you have an OE Delco or vintage Delco replacement cap - anything with the Delco name/logo, don't change it. If there is any corrosion/erosion on the cap terminals, dress them with a small brass brush, dental pick, Xacto knife, or similar tool. Caps and rotors can last a long time if given a periodic check and cleaning.
The judges may ask you to open the cap window to see if the dist. has points or an electronic switch conversion, but I don't think they will try to make a judgment of whether or not the points are OE Delco, or a recent (last 20 years) replacement set.
Same with the condenser and rotor. It's difficult if not impossible to tell if these components are OE Delco or modern replacements.
You can look up your car at napaonline.com, any other parts store chain web site, or any of the brand web sites to get correct part numbers.
If you do need a cap with minimum deduction, you will have to find a correct NOS or serviceable used part, and they will be expensive, possibly not worth the small deduction. Your JG will tell you what cap markings are correct for your year and how many points it's worth.
DukeLast edited by Duke W.; December 30, 2010, 11:28 AM.Comment
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Re: 1966 Tune-up
Larry,
As Duke said, the cap will be judged and so will the plug wires. The plugs themselves will not nor the points, rotor, etc. You can purchase a reproduction cap that will receive minimal deductions through Paragon, LIC, etc.
As mentioned earlier, the reproduction plug wires have been known to quality issues and may impact how your car runs (check the archives).
Good luck,Rob
'66 327/300 Regional Top Flt
'08 6 speed coupeComment
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Re: 1966 Tune-up
Russ,
My bad, I kept thinking of 1965.
Either way the 300hp should idle smooth at low rpm's..
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