Water pump headache

[David K.]

Re: Water pump headache

Though there is many things I can do myself, I had the same questions with what to do with my original water pump. I sent it to a well known re-builder who is also a member here. I have never looked back. It works well and didn't leak from the get go.

[David H.]

Re: Water pump headache

David,
And who might that well know (not to me) rebuilder be?

[John F.]

Re: Water pump headache

Bill Mock at (918)333-0748. His ad is in the Driveline. He should have the 609 pump that is correct for your 62. I got mine from him.

[David K.]

Re: Water pump headache

Yes, that who rebuilt my original water pump. Good service.

[Mark P.]

Re: Water pump headache

It might be Bill Mock. I would give him a call. He told me he avoids Chinese parts when he does his rebuilds. I got a correct dated 1960 pump from him. He's in the Driveline.

[David K.]

Re: Water pump headache

Bill Mock told me the same thing about the Chinese parts. He also mentioned that there is a repo 609 water pump, that is being sold that just is not right. My 609 pump on my early '62 has the flat back to it. No problems at all with function, leaks or anything. I am well pleased.

[Jack H.]

Re: Water pump headache

You'll find the 'reproduction' listed by Zip. If memory serves, it's made somewhere in the Med (Turkey???) and it bears NO SEMBLENCE to the factory original '609 in either main housing configuration or PN emboss.

But, the item is CHEAP compared to what you can expect to shell out for a real McCoy '609 today! The last I heard, Bill Mock was expecting something like $500-600 for a real deal '609 water pump... And, I don't begrudge him the money, these puppy dogs are DARN hard to find!!!

[Jack H.]

Re: Water pump headache

Hint, when torquing fasteners that surround a gasket and/or hold coolant at bay, follow two rules:

(1) Dip the threads in a good form of sealant to thwart fluid wicking up along the thread path.

(2) Read and OBEY specified fastener torque specs.

The whole reason for the use of a gasket to allow the metal to metal interface to 'float' and the gasket to absorb thermal expansion/contraction stress. When you torque the holding fasteners SO TIGHT that they 'pancake' flatten the gasket, you've defeated the purpose of the gasket!

[David H.]

Re: Water pump headache

Jack, thanks for the tips! I hadn't thought of sealing the bolts on the backing plate. Do you happen to know what the tourque spec is for those and the bolts to the block?

And...
"The whole reason for the use of a gasket to allow the metal to metal interface to 'float' and the gasket to absorb thermal expansion/contraction stress".

does that mean I should not use gasket sealer to hold the gaskets in place during assembly?

[David G.]

Re: Water pump headache

[quote} Gary, great idea with the electric drill. I will do that for sure. I dont know how to pressurize the system without the radiator connected. Is that possible? I have decided to give it one more attempt with the original water pump. Thanks to all for your input.[/quote]

If you do not have a radiator installed, you can cut up an old bicycle tube and connect it to the thermostat outlet and water pump, with the air fitting in between. Add 7-10 lbs air pressure and spin the pump over for a while.
You should be able to determine where your leak is at this point.
Dave

[Jack H.]

Re: Water pump headache

Water pump to block torque is quoted in the shop manual (ST-12) as 25-30 ft-lbs.

Water pump backing plate torque is referenced in various Chassis Overhaul Manuals as MUCH less; 15 in-lbs...

[David H.]

Re: Water pump headache

I'm wondering if the pump can be tested on the bench as well.
Plug the radiator hose connection, plug the heater hose connections.
Put anti-freeze in it (upside down) then use plugs to plug the connections to the block sealing with a small amount of gasket sealer. Leave overnight, then turn it right side up and spin slowly by hand or with a drill.
I realize that the pump will want to pump the anti-freeze but if done slowly will this work to seat the seal in the pump before installing it on the motor?

[Domenic T.]

Re: Water pump headache

David,
As I said in my earlier post I bench test my pumps on the bench as the final part of the rebuild.

I use air and have metal plates that I bolt on the pump where it attaches to the block.

I use neoprene as a gasket between the plate and pump. The auto parts or hardware store has expandable rubber plugs that fit the large inlet hole to plug it.

Then the threded hole can be used for tha guage and air fill.

I use about 40 lbs of air and watch the guage.

The big hole pluged by the expandable rubber plug wil be dangerous if the plug blowes out so I safety it to the pump housing.

The plates are 1/4 in and drilled for the 3/8 bolts, the rubber gasket can be purchased in sheets and you can find a leak with dishwash liquid mixed with water and sprayed on the suspected place.

DOM

[David H.]

Re: Water pump headache

Thanks Dom, I think I will try this before I put it on the block again.

[Dennis S.]

Re: Water pump headache

Though there is many things I can do myself, I had the same questions with what to do with my original water pump. I sent it to a well known re-builder who is also a member here. I have never looked back. It works well and didn't leak from the get go.

A well known rebuilder supplied my correct date-coded "rebuilt" pump for $320 back in 2005, which I have since determined included a corroded backplate and corroded bypass hose fitting. When I had the engine rebuilt last year, we ended up torching the old fitting out and replacing to solve a nagging coolant leak around the hose and clamp. The new leak started after media blasting the backplate and installing a new standard gasket. As I said in my earlier post, a thicker gasket and sealant solved that problem.