T10-1C question

[Tom P.]

Re: T10-1C question

If you're going to tear it down for a complete rebuild, I'd sure recommend going back with Tork Loc sliders. Compared to what you're going to spend anyway, a pair of Tork Locs isn't significant. They sure are good insurance to prevent popping out of gear during decelleration.
I put them in every tranny I rebuild.

[Doug F.]

Re: T10-1C question

good call Tom i meant to mention popping out of gear, Tork Loc sliders should take care of that.

[Donald H.]

Reverse Idler Shaft removal?????

OK, how do I get the pin out of the housing to remove the reverse idler shaft?

The 61 Chevy Shop Manual says to drive it into the boss until it falls into the clearance hole in the shaft

There is not hole inside the housing beside where the shaft goes, so I can't drive the pin through and out into the tail case/housing.

Do the instructions mean that the pin is short enough that I can drive it into the shaft far enough to remove the shaft?

Thanks,

Don

[Tom P.]

Re: Reverse Idler Shaft removal?????

OK, how do I get the pin out of the housing to remove the reverse idler shaft?

The 61 Chevy Shop Manual says to drive it into the boss until it falls into the clearance hole in the shaft

There is not hole inside the housing beside where the shaft goes, so I can't drive the pin through and out into the tail case/housing.

Do the instructions mean that the pin is short enough that I can drive it into the shaft far enough to remove the shaft?

Thanks,

Don

Don,
The pin is SHORTER than the diameter of the reverse idler shaft.
So, using a small punch, drive the pin INTO the tail housing. Once the pin has gone through the case (tail housing) it will fall into the hole in the shaft. Then you simply pull the shaft out of the housing and the pin will literally fall onto the floor and you will never see it again (if you're not paying attention ).
During reassembly, insert the shaft back into the tail housing so that the hole for the pin in the shaft lines up with the hole in the housing. Gently tap the pin back into the housing until it is flush, or maybe just a tiny bit deeper than the outer edge of the hole.

An old rebuilder's trick.
Prior to removing the reverse idler shaft, examine the shaft surface and note which side shows more wear marks (one side will most likely show some signs of the idler gear riding on the shaft). When you reinstall the shaft, install it 180deg from where it was originally. This will provide a fresh, newer surface for the bushings in the reverse idler gear to ride on.

[Donald H.]

Re: Reverse Idler Shaft removal?????

Don,
The pin is SHORTER than the diameter of the reverse idler shaft.
So, using a small punch, drive the pin INTO the tail housing. Once the pin has gone through the case (tail housing) it will fall into the hole in the shaft. Then you simply pull the shaft out of the housing and the pin will literally fall onto the floor and you will never see it again (if you're not paying attention ).
During reassembly, insert the shaft back into the tail housing so that the hole for the pin in the shaft lines up with the hole in the housing. Gently tap the pin back into the housing until it is flush, or maybe just a tiny bit deeper than the outer edge of the hole.

An old rebuilder's trick.
Prior to removing the reverse idler shaft, examine the shaft surface and note which side shows more wear marks (one side will most likely show some signs of the idler gear riding on the shaft). When you reinstall the shaft, install it 180deg from where it was originally. This will provide a fresh, newer surface for the bushings in the reverse idler gear to ride on.

Tom, thanks -- that worked and I didn't even loose the pin

[Donald H.]

Shifter forks - replace or not?

I ordered parts last night from D&L (Larry). I was looking again today and now I am wondering if I should replace the shifter forks.

Pictures attached. Are these usable or not?

Thanks,

Don

[Tom P.]

Re: T10-1C question

Are they useable? Yes, but they're marginal.
Again, since you're doing a complete rebuild, I'd suggest installing new ones.

[Donald H.]

Re: T10-1C question

I called Larry and ordered new forks

Thanks

[Donald H.]

Re: T10-1C question

My parts should arrive today so I can start the rebuild. I have some instructions where folks use grease to keep the loose roller bearings in place.

What kind of grease is used for this? One of the pictures in a book I have it is a green color.

Thanks,

Don

[Tom P.]

Re: T10-1C question

Don,
Some people advocate using plain ole Vasoline because it more easily disolves into the tranny gear oil. I personally don't care for the Vasoline because it just isn't thick enough to keep the needle bearings in place as well as grease.
For the 40+yrs that I've been rebuilding 4spds, I've always used regular chassis grease with ZERO problems.
Reinstalling all the needle bearings into the cluster, with the spacer washers and the long spacer in the center, then getting the cluster AND thrust washers on each end placed in the case so that the shaft slides through WITHOUT knocking one or two of the needle bearings loose, can ofter be a challenge. TAKE YOUR TIME, USE LOTS OF PATIENCE----------it may take several staps at it before you get the hang of inserting the shaft with everything remaining place.

[Donald H.]

Re: T10-1C question

I can see keeping the rollers in place will be trying

Is it a NO-NO to blast the Tail Case and Side cover. I have been trying every technique I have found here and on the Corvette Forum to "restore" aluminum parts. I have tried Berryman B12 carb cleaner, Brake Cleaner, CLR Lime Away, and now have had the side cover and tail case soaking in full strength Simple Green all day.

Scrubbed with stiff nylon bristle brush, and red Scotch Brite. They are nice and clean but still have some oxidation, or what I assume is oxidation, spots on them.

I have seen some comments on the forum that blasting will destroy the "skin" on aluminum parts.

What say you?

Thanks,
Don

[Timothy B.]

Re: T10-1C question

Donald,

Short of spending $$$ aluminum restoration, I will suggest after cleaning and drying the outer case to get some dull aluminum spray bomb and mix with acetone or lacquer thinner so it's watery and use a rag to wipe this on the case.

You will be surprised at the results and it may be more than acceptable for your transmission. The solution is very thin so your not putting much on but just enough to make the surface look uniform.

Others may have different methods. Make sure to use sealer on both sides of gaskets and drain plugs and seal the front where the bore is for the countershaft, oil will seep here.

[Tom P.]

Re: T10-1C question

Yes, blasting will "alter" the original finish. I use a VERY strong industrial strength type degreaser and then rinse it off under high pressure with my gas powered pressure washer which is supplied with hot water from my home hot water heater that is turned up to max (about 150deg).
Then I dip it into an alum brightener solution that has been diluted with water. Alum brighteners usually have some amount of phosphoric acid in them. Again, I rinse it off with high pressure hot water. When using a strong alum brightening solution, it MUST be rinsed off quickly and thoroughly with high pressure water. Just rinsing it off with a water hose isn't sufficient. High pressure is needed to remove the brightening chemicals from the pores of the metal.
The next option is to send off the alum parts to someone like Jerry McNeish, who specializes in alum parts refinishing.
It's nice to have a perfectly correct finish on parts, but I am NOT an NCRS perfectly correct fanatic, so I do my own finishing. On very rare ocassions, I may LIGHTLY blast some parts to remove (or reduce) stuborn areas of discoloration. After blasting, then I go through the above processes and maybe let the brightening solution work a few seconds longer before rinsing off with high pressure hot water.
Several months ago, I submitted an article for the RESTORER about repairing some damaged 9-fin valve covers. I don't remember which issue it was, but you might search for it (within the past 1-2yrs). I don't have time to look now, we're getting ready to leave town for Christmas.
Merry Christmas!

[Eric D.]

Re: T10-1C question

I use white litheum grease to pack the needle bearings into the cluster gear and input gear, also to hold thrust washers in place... Within a hundred miles or less the grease disolves... I've fixed alot of Muncies and T-10s from people using chassis grease and destroying the ID bore of the cluster gear, and the tip of the main shaft and ID of the input gear where the rollers didn't roll, they side and cause flat spots, and then game over...

Hope this helps... Crash