Differential went to the media blaster yesterday. Owner in an email says"Entire diff will be free of rust and be 100% clean". So the big question/decision is,what do I do with it when I pick it up next week? Should I paint it, oil it, wax it, or if I do nothing, watch it rust. Seriously, I know it's my rear end (no pun intended)but just what is the MOST CURRENT concensus regarding the finish? I have the both the 3rd & 4th TIM&JG but passed on the 5th?. Thanks in advance for your good opinions/suggestions. Jack Jagello
1964 differential-decisions,decisions,decisions
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Re: 1964 differential-decisions,decisions,decisions
Jack, I would immediately paint the outside with Cast-Blast high heat to stop any surface rust. Make sure it is clean from grease and oil before you paint it. Then you have the choice to leave it that way or paint it black.
Good luck.
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Re: 1964 differential-decisions,decisions,decisions
Jack, If you don't like the cast blast as Harry says( which is one opition), the other opition is satin clear which is pretty much invisiable a couple of light coats will help rust stay away. I did this after sand blasting my 72 housing 2 yrs. now and still looks great.New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.- Top
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Re: 1964 differential-decisions,decisions,decisions
Jack,
I don't think you can go wrong with a light coat of cast blast to protect from rust. At a later time if you want, you can use some satin black to coat the rear suspension like factory procedure.- Top
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Re: 1964 differential-decisions,decisions,decisions
I just had mine rebuilt by Gary Ramadei. The JG says "natural finish". To me paint isn't natural but the diff had to be protected from rust. Gary had some "Fluid Film" and used it on the Diff and steering arm at my request. I have had it back in my garage for 2 months and am reassembling the chassis. The piece looks beautiful. There is no sign of rust and the film had dried so there is no longer a wet appearance. I bought some "Pre Lube 6" and have been using it on other "natural" parts (drive shaft, half shafts, lower shock brackets, tie-rod ends and clamps) and I'm very pleased with it too. The cross shafts for the upper "A" arms were painted with Cast-Blast", and although they have a nice appearance, it is obvoius that they have been painted.
The big potetial drawbacks with Fluid Film and/or Pre Lube is that it is supposed to penetrate the metal which means paint will probably not adhere to it in the future if you decide to pait later. It is probably going to be necessary to re-coat these pieces in the future.
Doug- Top
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Re: 1964 differential-decisions,decisions,decisions
Well you are faced with the old question of do it for judging (per manual) or back to original. Even though the JG does have a note permitting it to be black it's sort of up to the judge.
In a perfect world the deduct for black would be the same as Cast Blast, however usually its less. The Cast Blast could be painted back to black if desired. From Doug's comment it seems the more natural preservatives can not (I have no idea of that).
All I can say is that my Mar64 car had the entire rear suspension (a few pieces not) in Black Out so I returned it back to black, most judges do not like that but that's how it was at least on one Mar64 car.
It's a matter of choice! If you could find some natural preservative (clear satin) that could be painted that would be the best option. Show with natural & later it could be painted black.- Top
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