Sorry, but another paint versus no paint questions

[Donald H.]

For my C1 (1960) parts that are supposed to be unpainted, i.e. natural metal, I have been spraying with Eastwood diamond clear.

Am I going to loose points because I have coated these parts with a clear finish? And of so, is the lose the same for clear coating as painting gloss black?

For preservation, I would prefer to have all exposed metal parts coated with some protection.

Thanks,

Don Harris

[Edward J.]

Re: Sorry, but another paint versus no paint questions

Don, I personally like eastwoods satin clear, it protects all bare metal parts and is almost invisible.Gloss black may also be a problem if it calls for black- a satin or semi gloss maybe better, There were more than like not to many gloss black parts on the older cars. judging manuel may help with the correctness.

[Alan S.]

Re: Sorry, but another paint versus no paint questions

Hi Don,
For protection on chassis and running gear parts I've had good results using 'Prelube 6'. I buy it from Quanta, they advertise in THE DRIVELINE, in a spray can. It seems to last quite well on a car that doesn't live too hard a life. It forms a thin film which doesn't seem to attract dust and dirt. Worth a try?
Regards,
Alan

[Donald H.]

Re: Sorry, but another paint versus no paint questions

Hi Don,
For protection on chassis and running gear parts I've had good results using 'Prelube 6'. I buy it from Quanta, they advertise in THE DRIVELINE, in a spray can. It seems to last quite well on a car that doesn't live too hard a life. It forms a thin film which doesn't seem to attract dust and dirt. Worth a try?
Regards,
Alan

Yes, I also have used the Prelube 6 on some bare parts. My concern is whether I will get a judging hit or not for any kind of coating on the chassis parts that are supposed to be bare metal. I am sure a sharp judge can tell that the part has been coated with the Eastwood stain clear or the Prelube 6. If I am going to get the same points deduction for these, I may as well go ahead and prime and paint for greater protection of the parts?

Don

[Edward J.]

Re: Sorry, but another paint versus no paint questions

Don, If a judging determines that a finish is not correct there is a deduct, but generally is small. so if your going for a Duntov you'll want all the points you can get, if your after a top flite theres alot a lead way.The way I look at it is when restoring a car its seems like a shame to have something rusting after you just restored, I know this not the NCRS way ,But for a few points it worth it to me.

[Jack H.]

Re: Sorry, but another paint versus no paint questions

The release of the new 8th Edition of the Judging Reference Manual introduced changes to our originality scoring system. In the past, we had a policy to use CDCIF (Configuration, Date, Completeness, Installation and Finish) as a 5-axis consideration for component differences observed vs. those known to be factory correct. Now, the use of CDCIF is a hard rule.

So, if a given part is known to have left the factory 'natural' and judges determine it 'grew' a 'foreign' coating like protective paint, expect to lose 20% of the originality points associated with that item.

Yes, it's hard to swallow that making a restored car different/better than it originally was when it left the factory should cost you judging points, but that's way the scoring system works, absent a handful of published exceptions.

What are the exceptions? Well, get the Judging Reference Manual and look 'em up. You'll find them in the Standard Deductions section as well as other places. These include the bonus points associated with NCRS window sticker, fire extinguisher, battery cut-off switch plus adding seat belts to cars originally NOT so factory equipped, Etc.

While a tough swallow, these deviations simply represent judging points. It's your car, have it the way you want. But, don't complain IF you lose originality points as a result.

Few will actually restore the exterior paint with factory original orange peel intact! Most GLADLY accept the standard deduction associated with making the paint quality TOO GOOD versus the original UAW labor installed workmanship...

[Donald H.]

Re: Sorry, but another paint versus no paint questions

The release of the new 8th Edition of the Judging Reference Manual introduced changes to our originality scoring system. In the past, we had a policy to use CDCIF (Configuration, Date, Completeness, Installation and Finish) as a 5-axis consideration for component differences observed vs. those known to be factory correct. Now, the use of CDCIF is a hard rule.

So, if a given part is known to have left the factory 'natural' and judges determine it 'grew' a 'foreign' coating like protective paint, expect to lose 20% of the originality points associated with that item.

Yes, it's hard to swallow that making a restored car different/better than it originally was when it left the factory should cost you judging points, but that's way the scoring system works, absent a handful of published exceptions.

What are the exceptions? Well, get the Judging Reference Manual and look 'em up. You'll find them in the Standard Deductions section as well as other places. These include the bonus points associated with NCRS window sticker, fire extinguisher, battery cut-off switch plus adding seat belts to cars originally NOT so factory equipped, Etc.

While a tough swallow, these deviations simply represent judging points. It's your car, have it the way you want. But, don't complain IF you lose originality points as a result.

Few will actually restore the exterior paint with factory original orange peel intact! Most GLADLY accept the standard deduction associated with making the paint quality TOO GOOD versus the original UAW labor installed workmanship...

Thanks,

I ordered the Judging Guide today. I may never get a top flight award, or may never even have the car judged, but I can't in good conscience leave a piece of bare metal after I have spent a lot of time blasting, or wire brushing, or sanding. So the parts that are supposed to be bare will get at least a coating of satin clear.

When I get through with this restoration, I want my car to look like it just rolled off the assembly line, but if it doesn't judge that way, OH WELL

[William C.]

Re: Sorry, but another paint versus no paint questions

I think you should review the discussion of chassis blackout on solid axle cars in another recent thread before you jump into action. The actual chassis was coated with a black preservative coating prior to body drok that covered most if not all of the suspension components.